My first ball joint job on my 98 Wrangler Sahara. Original ball joints mind you. Upper passenger came out well. The lower is rusted in there. The tool is actually beginning to strip (I will get a refund). anybody have any ideas to free it up??? Heat?? I only have propane.
I personally don't like to heat up sealed containers full of grease if I can avoid it. I haven't had a rusted one in many years but I would try lots of PB Blaster or the like, some steady pressure with the C-clamp tool, and hit the knuckle (ear I believe it's called?) with a 3-5lb hammer, like you mean it. Have you already tried that? Heat/ice may work but I wouldn't use a torch myself.
If you're using a cheapo Harbor Freight press, take it back and borrow a real one from any auto parts store. You shouldn't be able to strip the threads on those things.
X2. Spray with PB blaster, let it sit for a little bit, get the press pushing hard, and smack the inner-C until it pops. Just to cover all the bases, make sure you are pushing on the ball joint body and not the inner-C by accident. You never know...
While I won't disagree that the HF BJ/front end press is cheap Chinese stuff (I am definitely pro USA/Germany/etc. made quality tools) the ones at Autozone and such they let you borrow are identical around here. I know because I looked.
I wanted the nice USA made forged C set that I found for ~$370 but at the time ~$60 was what I could spend and I needed the tool. I say all of that to say that I've had zero issues with my cheap Chinese HF press. In fact I'm pretty sure that when I replace it with the good one I'll be able to donate it to someone that will also get plenty of service out if it.
On original topic again, be sure to clean the socket out really good after you get that BJ popped loose as usually there is crud and rust built up in the corner of the pocket. I use a scotch pad, green or grey, whichever you have handy. Emery cloth would work too if you don't take too much off. You don't want that crap in there when you press in the new one.
I had the same trouble with my lower ball joint last week. Torched the sucker with propane until the outer layers of rust started flaking off, tightened the press with a cheater bar until i saw the "C" part of the press start to bend open 1/4" or so, then whacked the top of the press with a hammer as though i was 4 hours into a 2 hour job and the f*cker wasn't even out yet...
Sounded like a shotgun went off, the clamp and adapters/sockets (i improvised...) went flying all over the place, and when the rust settled, the ball joint was about 1/8" lower than it was when i started. I repeated that a few times before it came out all the way.
I left the new joint in the freezer over night, and torched the knuckle/socket again before pressing it in though. That made installation a breeze.
I had the same issue on my Cummins heated the hell out of the control arm assembly put all kinds of pressure on it (broke one puller) and blasted it with a 5 lb when it let go it reminded me of a 12 gauge, scared the sh*t outta me cuz I wasn't expecting it. Every other set has come out pretty smoothly. I bought the set advance rents like $300 the one from auto zone doesn't have half the adapters. Many of the kits don't have a warranty on the threaded press part. This one does because I got a new one when I broke the first one. Haven't had another issue yet.
L'audace l'audace toujours l'audace!!! Yes, success. Got rid of the rust on top with a blue chisel, Rust Penetration spray overnight, and a few turns later, success! Bummer though I slightly ripped the boot installing. Wonder if they sell just boots. Thanks for all the suggestions. Next project, tie-rod and steering joints.
Couple things on any screw powered press be sure to grease the screw with each use be it USA made or chicom made grease is essential
There are better penetrating lubes the pb blaster and I think Kroil is best but others have their favorites. All I know is when I want to remove a stuck Mauser barrel installed in 1900 Kroil plus sometimes melted candle wax is ideal
Lastly if you want more heat than propane without new equipment go get a map gas cylinder for your propane tourch
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