04 Sahara, with a lift, some stuff, and a few things, on some 33's, blah, blah, blah.
A perpetual work in progress. Too much to list, not nearly enough to matter.
My RigRater Score: 387RRv1.0 with a BOA of 18.92 (and just how exactly is this going to help me over that big arse rock?) http://www.myjeepsite.com/nregas1 Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.
~ Ernest Hemingway
“He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, he is a fool, shun him.
He who knows not and knows he knows not, he is simple, teach him.
He who knows and knows not he knows, he is asleep, wake him.
But he who knows, and knows he knows, he is wise, follow him.”
89 yj 4 banger 5sp. 2" BL 31x10.50 fixed up and sold
97 tj 4.0 Auto 4"RC lift 33x12.50 mud rovers on outlaw IIs . Smitty bumpers
A hammer wont do much but screw up the bolt even more. If its a little rusted then it will pop out with a hammer but if it doesnt want to go all you''re gonna do is put a reverse taper or whatever you call it on a tight tapered part.I deal with tapered stuff all the time at work and the best way to get it out is slow powerful pull (such as a pitarm puller)
I cant remember if it was tiny or some one but they had hell of a time getting those things out too. The reason is they hit it many times to a point where the top of the bolt was bigger than the actual tapered part so no way out. They ended up having to grind the bolt so its even with the rest of the anti sway bar and then drill a new hole in the middle.
If you have heat like a torch or something that might also do the job. Just put the pitman arm puller and tighten it hard and then heat where the bolt meets the anti sway bar. It will screw up the rubber on the link but it is what it is.