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Old 08-13-2012, 08:49 PM   #1
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switching to synthetic oil

I would like to switch to synthetic oil in my 2000 tj 2.5L, just hit 100,000 miles... Anything i should do before switching? I plan on using mobil 1 synthetic and any advice on a good filter to use?

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Old 08-13-2012, 08:59 PM   #2
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There's no need to spend the money on synthetic. Just change the oil every 3K and your engine will be happy. As far as filters, I've always used Fram but I'm going to try Napa Gold on my next change to see if it makes a difference.

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Old 08-13-2012, 09:04 PM   #3
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i have run Mobil 1 in all my cars even my lawnmower and never an engine related issue.

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Old 08-13-2012, 09:10 PM   #4
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Royal Purple fan here and I've never had a problem. Yeah it's more expensive but I like it so who knows. I would suggest being careful with the K&N oil filters as they like to stick on and are hard to get off at times. Other than that choose a good syn. brand name and have at it. I don't even know if they make K&N for the Jeep but I know my next oil change is Royal Purple.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:22 PM   #5
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Simple, basic Quaker State in everything I've ever owned. Never had an oil related issue either.

Synthetic oil is a total ripoff!! Not even necessary to change oil every 3000 miles either using regular oil, unless you've been doing some seriously strenuous driving!
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:27 PM   #6
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I use Mobil 1 filters as well. I change the oil at 6000 miles so the cost evens out to dino oil. However, use what you want. Although all the research shows syn oil to be superior in regard to engine wear and sludge reduction.
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:47 PM   #7
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Synthetic oil isn't any miracle worker, mostly wishful thinking. They even have high mileage synthetic oil now to overcome the short comings of regular synthetic - makes a person wonder, doesn't it. I didn't think regular synthetic oil had any short comings.

Your engine will last longer than the rest of your Jeep using conventional oil, so why bother with synthetic unless you want to keep used dirty oil in your crankcase twice as long? You can have longer oil change intervals with synthetic, no doubt about it .... but ... is that a good thing?

As to anything you need to do to start using synthetic, there is nothing. Go for it. May as well use the expensive Mobil 1 extended performance filter also. It will do a good job, like most other oil filters, but likely more efficient at removing finer particles of dirt than economy filters and have a silicone anti-drainback valve to boot.

I like the WIX filter for its solid construction, coil retainer spring versus leaf retainer spring and a bypass valve at the base end rather than the cap end.

PS: To avoid borrowing trouble, go for major brand name oils, not some the inferior products being listed by the PQIA @ http://www.pqiamerica.com/
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Old 08-13-2012, 09:58 PM   #8
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Am using regular but switching to syn the next time. Nothing to really worry about or do...besides change your oil less frequently. The issues are wear insolubles and TBN. Use good filters. I like WIX and Mobil 1. They are a bit more expensive...esp Mobil 1 if using aftermarket.
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Old 08-14-2012, 01:48 PM   #9
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I have used synthetics for about 40 years now of various brands. Most of that time I have changed oil once per year but I change the filter every 2000 miles without fail and add a quart to replace the oil lost in the filter. Several vehicles over the years most with over 200,000 miles when sold and one diesel with over 200,000 miles. I change my own oil or would not bother to use synthetic. I also don't use synthetic in any vehicle I don't plan to keep for a long time. I like Mobil One and Valvoline synthetic. YMMV.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:06 PM   #10
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I use synthetic Valvotine 10w30. 300K warranty in case of oil related problems.

My advise is use what you want but prob high mileage version, just make sure you change oil on a regular.
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Old 08-14-2012, 03:51 PM   #11
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If you are looking for an actual PAO synthetic, look for the European formulas that many oil manufacturers have. Most so called "synthetics" on the market in North America are not PAO based but are petroleum based (yep, dino).

Choose Castrol 0W-30, made in Germany, with a pour point of -65F/-54C. Compare that pour point with the other synthetics out there. Even Castrols other synthetics don't compare because they aren't PAO Synthetics.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is another good choice. From 0W-40 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1 0W-40
Quote:
Mobil 1 0W-40 (European Car Formula in North America) meets or exceeds the requirements of leading industry and car manufacturers’ standards required for newer modern gasoline and diesel powered automobile engines.
Pour Point -65F/-54C.

Amsoil signature series 0W-30 would be another good choice: AMSOIL - Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSO) Pour point -60F/-51C.

Now consider Mobil 1 extended performance synthetic 5W-30 (they don't list a 0W-30/40) with a pour point of -40F/-40C. Valvoline conventional premium 5W-30 beats that at -44F/-42C.

Some good discussion here: Which are true(!) PAO (Class IV) Motor Oil brands? - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Bottom Line: Not all synthetics are actual synthetics. Call it a scam if you like. Why bother with the wantabes, get the real thing. You paid for it.

My recommendation (FWIW):
Synthetic: Castrol 0W-30 European formula, made in Germany (says so on the bottle. comes in quarts / litres, no big jugs).
Conventional: Valvoline Premium Conventional 5W-30 or 10W-30. That's what I'm using these days, usually on sale at WalMart.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:35 PM   #12
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You may find switching to a full synthetic now will cause it to leak even it was a non-leaker with conventional. You may want to try a synthetic blend instead for some of the benefits of synthetic without the leaking issues. My mechanic buddy recommends the Motorcraft Blend. Or as suggested earlier stay with conventional oil and change it frequently. Synthetics may cause gaskets to shrink over time too adding to the leakage problem. Had switched my Land Rover to Mobil 1 at 18K and the valve covers and the rear seal were starting to leak by 40K.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:42 PM   #13
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I run synthetic power steering fluid and synthetic ATF in my transmission and transfer case, but my lubrication of choice for my engine and both axles is conventional. I don't beieve you need a synthetic engine oil to protect an engine, today's major brand multi-weight lubricants like from Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil, etc. are all superb. The only time I would pay extra for a synthetic engine oil is during the winter if I lived in an extra-cold location like Alaska, North Dakota, Buffalo NY, etc. where a synthetic engine oil has an advantage.
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:43 PM   #14
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When I switched to Mobil 1 Synth last fall, I all of a sudden had a valve cover leak next to the firewall. It was a 30 minute fix to re-RTV it, but I plan to stick with the oil.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:42 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorMac View Post
You may find switching to a full synthetic now will cause it to leak even it was a non-leaker with conventional. You may want to try a synthetic blend instead for some of the benefits of synthetic without the leaking issues. My mechanic buddy recommends the Motorcraft Blend. Or as suggested earlier stay with conventional oil and change it frequently. Synthetics may cause gaskets to shrink over time too adding to the leakage problem. Had switched my Land Rover to Mobil 1 at 18K and the valve covers and the rear seal were starting to leak by 40K.
Your buddy is making a good recommendation. The Ford 5W-20 is a very good blend.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:46 AM   #16
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I use M1 0W-40 and M1 extended performance filter. Change when the change indicator says to change not to exceed 10k. The age doesn't matter that much regardless of what they say.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:11 AM   #17
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Why the recommendations for 0w-xx? I don't feel comfortable running oils with the consistency of water in my engine. I run valvoline synthetic 10w-30, Lucas additive, and wix filter. 60$ every 3 months or 3000 miles is like 5$ out of every paycheck lol. Why cheap out on the life of your engine? just stay away from fram filters, wix mobile1, and purolator are all good filters. k&n is ok but your really just paying for the name
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:03 AM   #18
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0W-30 vs 10W-30 means that the 0W oil will flow better at lower temps than the 10W oil. If you're in a warmer climate the number to really pay attention to is the last number. Basically a multi-weight oil will flow like the lower number when cold, and like the bigger number when hot.

I use Amsoil 10W-30 XL oil, and the appropriate filter in my TJ. I have a preferred customer account which gives me the dealer price. I pay less for the Amsoil than I do for the Penzoil 10W-30 I put in my wife's Wagoneer (her choice, not mine). I use a slightly extended oil change than the manual calls for, but the oil is up to it.

I also have Amsoil fluids throughout.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:42 AM   #19
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Just changed the xfer case, trans and both diffs to Mobil 1 this last weekend.. when time, will change to Mobil 1 oil and oil filter.

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Old 10-03-2012, 08:45 AM   #20
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I love reading "Synthetic Engine Oil" threads, mainly because it is a complcated subject and the general public is very poorly informed.... but highly opinionated!

Having worked in the oil industry for 20 yrs... and 10 of those involved in actually blending automotive and racing oils, I can tell you there are serious misconceptions about synthetic oils.

Some facts are these..........At the simplest level, synthetic oils have only two advantage, 1) Thermal Stability and 2) fewer contaminantes in the oil. -Thermal stability is essential for racers and nice to have for heavy use vehicles (heavy towing, etc).
Synthetics will not cause your oil to operate cooler on a hot day but can make for easier starts on exrtrememly cold mornings.
-Fewer Contaminants means the oil (and filter) will last longer without breaking down, clogging filters or forming deposits in your crankcase, rings, lifters, etc. WIth sufficient additives, it also means you can entend oil and filter changes to about twice the normal.

SO... Synthetics will last twice as long, cost about twice as much and will possible result in a bit cleaner engine at 100,000 miles.

I have seen guys buy the cheapest Target oil they can find and change it every 1000 - 1500 miles, and have long lived, spottless engines.
I've seen others that run full synthetics and change oil AND filter every 10,000 miles, and have the same excellent results!

Summary - There is more than one way to skin the Jeep engine oil cat!

WHen it comes to automatic tranny fluids and P.S. Fluid I agree with Jerry B. (above).
Synthetics have a major advantage there.
I also agree that mineral oil based oils have an advantage in differentials. I have personally been part of proving this concept in Top Fuel Dragsters!

When it come to engine oil - take you pick based on what lets you sleep better at night.....
and lets all try to resist strongly advocating "My way is better than your way"f!
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:49 AM   #21
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I'm running royal purple 10w30 full syn. Just switched to the rp HPS, which has a high zinc/phos count. No leaks of any sort but have run RP syn since new.

Oil gets changed at about 7k miles.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorMac View Post
You may find switching to a full synthetic now will cause it to leak even it was a non-leaker with conventional. You may want to try a synthetic blend instead for some of the benefits of synthetic without the leaking issues. My mechanic buddy recommends the Motorcraft Blend. Or as suggested earlier stay with conventional oil and change it frequently. Synthetics may cause gaskets to shrink over time too adding to the leakage problem. Had switched my Land Rover to Mobil 1 at 18K and the valve covers and the rear seal were starting to leak by 40K.
X2- I have seen this happen on more than one car. I am sure you have already switched, but I would love to hear if you now have oil leaks.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:27 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ
I love reading "Synthetic Engine Oil" threads, mainly because it is a complcated subject and the general public is very poorly informed.... but highly opinionated!

Having worked in the oil industry for 20 yrs... and 10 of those involved in actually blending automotive and racing oils, I can tell you there are serious misconceptions about synthetic oils.

Some facts are these..........At the simplest level, synthetic oils have only two advantage, 1) Thermal Stability and 2) fewer contaminantes in the oil. -Thermal stability is essential for racers and nice to have for heavy use vehicles (heavy towing, etc).
Synthetics will not cause your oil to operate cooler on a hot day but can make for easier starts on exrtrememly cold mornings.
-Fewer Contaminants means the oil (and filter) will last longer without breaking down, clogging filters or forming deposits in your crankcase, rings, lifters, etc. WIth sufficient additives, it also means you can entend oil and filter changes to about twice the normal.

SO... Synthetics will last twice as long, cost about twice as much and will possible result in a bit cleaner engine at 100,000 miles.

I have seen guys buy the cheapest Target oil they can find and change it every 1000 - 1500 miles, and have long lived, spottless engines.
I've seen others that run full synthetics and change oil AND filter every 10,000 miles, and have the same excellent results!

Summary - There is more than one way to skin the Jeep engine oil cat!

WHen it comes to automatic tranny fluids and P.S. Fluid I agree with Jerry B. (above).
Synthetics have a major advantage there.
I also agree that mineral oil based oils have an advantage in differentials. I have personally been part of proving this concept in Top Fuel Dragsters!

When it come to engine oil - take you pick based on what lets you sleep better at night.....
and lets all try to resist strongly advocating "My way is better than your way"f!
I'm curious, I've been running Mobil 1 for years in many different vehicles with excellent results.. I was told back in the late 70's (when Mobil 1 first came to the retail consumer), that one of the reasons it lubed better is because the molecular structure of synthetic oil was rectangular, whereas Dino oil molecular structure is round, therefore the rectangular structured syntec oil will lubricate more nooks and crannys than the round molecules.. Is there any truth in this? Thanks and have a nice night !!
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:39 PM   #24
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Both molecules are round, but one advantage that synthetic has over dino oil is the uniformity of the size of those structures. The molecules being uniform helps the oil actually flow better in the colder climates like it has been said above. Think of it as dino oil molecule sizes being between shotgun shell BBs up to the size of a grapes and sythetic oil having all the molecules the size of normal BBs. I could go into it more, but don't have time right now.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:48 AM   #25
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WHen it comes to automatic tranny fluids and P.S. Fluid I agree with Jerry B. (above).
Synthetics have a major advantage there.
I also agree that mineral oil based oils have an advantage in differentials. I have personally been part of proving this concept in Top Fuel Dragsters!
Why would mineral oil have an advantage in the differentials? some autos are now coming from the factory with synthetic. I would think that syn has an advantage across the board, its just up to the user to decide if the difference in performance and cost is worth it to them. I have been running syn in my vehicles for over 20 years, with no issues.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #26
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I used sythetic in most cars I've had for the supposedly better cold flow and general lubricity and shear resistance and leave it in longer, usually. Comes out to about the same price as conventional, but the Jeep gets conventional or a blend because it is a big, slow turning engine and doesn't usually run that hot. Plus synthetic can seep from some older seals that are not quite up to snuff where a conventional might not.
In short, yes, I believe in synthetics in general, but I don't think the Jeep 4.0 needs it unless I hung a turbo on it. Modern conventionals are nearly as good as most synthetics these days, I believe. So go ahead and run it if you want to, but you don't need to unless an owner's manual specifies it. (My old Tacoma 4 cylinder that I got rid of specified 0W-20 which pretty much limits it to synthetic to get that weight combination and a good viscosity index.)
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:51 AM   #27
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Someone on the forum in here (in another synthetic oil thread just like this one) mentioned that if you have high mileage on your engine are thinking of switching to synthetic from dino, or if you otherwise are a new owner and have no idea what the PO has used and decide you want to switch to synthetic permanently, it is a good idea after the first oil change to synthetic, you change it out again after the first 2000 miles. I have no idea if that is accurate, but I am planning to do this as I replaced the old oil with Wal-mart branded 10w-30 fully-synthetic about 1000 miles ago and am pretty sure the PO was running dino.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:56 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBoat

Why would mineral oil have an advantage in the differentials? some autos are now coming from the factory with synthetic. I would think that syn has an advantage across the board, its just up to the user to decide if the difference in performance and cost is worth it to them. I have been running syn in my vehicles for over 20 years, with no issues.
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I believe its because it is capable of transferring heat better than synthetics. This allows the diffs to stay slightly cooler and run better. Thats what I read on here once at least.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:01 AM   #29
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Someone on the forum in here (in another synthetic oil thread just like this one) mentioned that if you have high mileage on your engine are thinking of switching to synthetic from dino, or if you otherwise are a new owner and have no idea what the PO has used and decide you want to switch to synthetic permanently, it is a good idea after the first oil change to synthetic, you change it out again after the first 2000 miles. I have no idea if that is accurate, but I am planning to do this as I replaced the old oil with Wal-mart branded 10w-30 fully-synthetic about 1000 miles ago and am pretty sure the PO was running dino.
that makes sense... I recently got my Jeep and changed it as soon as I got it to synthetic. 2500 miles later I checked the oil this morning and its darker than usual, seems like it cleaned the engine out but I'm getting it changed this weekend.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:11 AM   #30
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Just remember guys... there is nothing wrong with today's modern dino engine oils, they do an excellent job at protecting our engines. And you don't need to "flush it out" by an earlier than normal synthetic oil change either. In my case, I have 49 years of using nothing but conventional engine oils, usually Valvoline 10W-30, and never an engine failure or problem. Most of which I kept until close to 200K miles and some more than that. Not even one ever had a problem while running a 10W-30 conventional.

When would I pay more to run a synthetic? During the winter if I lived in an extremely cold locale like North Dakota or Buffalo NY where synthetic engine oil does indeed have an advantage.

Some would like us to believe our engines will fail or at least have problems if we run conventional motor oils. They have been drinking too much kool-aid.

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