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Old 12-15-2011, 06:28 PM   #1
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SYE Installation Question

I just installed rear adjustable CA and new coil springs, and I'm ready to start the SYE install.

Right now I have the rear frame and axle on jack stands.
Is there any advantage to doing the SYE install with the vehicle on tires versus on jack stands.
Seems like there is a little more room under there to work with it on stands, but it might be more stable (or have other advantages) on its wheels?

Just wondering, what others have done while doing this install with the TC still in?

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Old 12-15-2011, 06:53 PM   #2
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Really, it will be a lot easier if you pull the transfer case and not try and do it connected. By the way, what size coil springs are you installing? If you are staying with the 2 1/2 " springs you really don't need an sye.

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Old 12-15-2011, 06:55 PM   #3
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Really, it will be a lot easier if you pull the transfer case and not try and do it connected. By the way, what size coil springs are you installing? If you are staying with the 2 1/2 " springs you really don't need an sye.
Put in 3" Currie/Savvy springs...plus I'm going to be putting in a high clearance TC skid.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:06 PM   #4
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Well, that will put you in the SYE category

Why don't you want to pull the T-case?
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:24 PM   #5
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I was just following the write up from 4x4xplor.com which left the TC in.
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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
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AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:29 PM   #6
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You can leave the Jeep on its tires and it is easier/faster to simply leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission. Leaving the front half of the transfer case bolted to the transmission actually makes some parts of the job easier/faster because it's like an extra set of hands holding it steady for you. Removing the transfer case entirely adds about 30 minutes to the job.
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:55 PM   #7
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I would just pull the transfer case. It will be much easier. And make for a better job.
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Old 12-15-2011, 08:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
You can leave the Jeep on its tires and it is easier/faster to simply leave the transfer case bolted to the transmission. Leaving the front half of the transfer case bolted to the transmission actually makes some parts of the job easier/faster because it's like an extra set of hands holding it steady for you. Removing the transfer case entirely adds about 30 minutes to the job.
Thanks Jerry!
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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
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AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:21 PM   #9
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I would just pull the transfer case. It will be much easier. And make for a better job.
It is not anymore difficult working on it under a lifted Jeep and as Jerry mentioned you don't have to hold the case.

The hard part is only having to put it together once.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:00 PM   #10
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dont pull the case. it was easier and faster doing it with it connected.
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:44 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
It is not anymore difficult working on it under a lifted Jeep and as Jerry mentioned you don't have to hold the case.

The hard part is only having to put it together once.

So which part of the install is the trickiest...or which part is most critical to avoid having to do it again???
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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
JKS TB (F), Currie TB (R), Currectlync HD Tie Rod System
AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadPenny

So which part of the install is the trickiest...or which part is most critical to avoid having to do it again???
Well...I know a guy who put it together without the oilpump, a guy that didn't measure the sliding shifter rod, a guy that thought the shifter yoke was in backwards and a guy that boogered up the gasket surface.

These guys are all part of a rare fraternity.

Don't let this post deter you from doing this yourself. All these guys could have prevented this.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:40 AM   #13
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Leave it in the Jeep if you wish, it makes no difference. I've done them both ways and neither is really better than the other. When the case was out it was probably a bit easier, but then you have to deal with removing/installing the case so it all evens out.

You can leave the Jeep on jackstands if you have more room/are more comfortable that way, or you can leave it sitting on the tires. If you have more room with the frame and axle on jackstands I'd probably do it that way, but that's just me. Either is fine, whatever is more comfortable for you.

And it's really not a bad job, just time consuming. Take your time and read over the guides several times beforehand so you know what you're doing. Get a good pair of snap ring/lock ring pliers and you should be good to go.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:07 AM   #14
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One idea that worked very well for me was driving the rear wheels up onto a pair car ramps which elevated the rear of the Jeep for easier access. Not necessary but a little nicer working underneath it.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:21 AM   #15
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hardest part was the retaining rings by far.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:34 AM   #16
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hardest part was the retaining rings by far.
True, most (even good quality) split-ring pliers don't open widely enough to remove them. None of the tools stores I tried had any that openened widely enough, I ended up getting mine from a Matco tool truck I found parked at a car dealer.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
True, most (even good quality) split-ring pliers don't open widely enough to remove them. None of the tools stores I tried had any that openened widely enough, I ended up getting mine from a Matco tool truck I found parked at a car dealer.
Pic of said pliers? I got a pair from Sears that were the best I could find, but I'd like to get a nice pair that work better for the next time.
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:02 AM   #18
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True, most (even good quality) split-ring pliers don't open widely enough to remove them. None of the tools stores I tried had any that openened widely enough, I ended up getting mine from a Matco tool truck I found parked at a car dealer.

I've got a pair from Snap-On (they came in a kit with several other pairs of different sizes). The heavy duty pair look like they will open just over 1.5". Think those will be ok?
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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
JKS TB (F), Currie TB (R), Currectlync HD Tie Rod System
AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
Novak shifter, Currie AR, Black Magic Brakes
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:05 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by BadPenny View Post
I've got a pair from Snap-On (they came in a kit with several other pairs of different sizes). The heavy duty pair look like they will open just over 1.5". Think those will be ok?
That sounds like what I bought off the Matco tool truck, they are probably fine.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:14 AM   #20
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Pic of said pliers? I got a pair from Sears that were the best I could find, but I'd like to get a nice pair that work better for the next time.
I did mine with a pair from Sears. Remember to pay attention to which shaft is the new one. It took me 20-30 min to remove the ring. I took a break after that. Went back and installed the ring on the replacement shaft and right after it seated I realized that I just put it back on the old shaft. The second time only took 5 min to remove.

Also before you button it all up make sure you can shift it into 4wd as the shifter fork can move out of place while your doing all this and prevent shifting out of 2wd
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:15 AM   #21
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I've done several with a pair from sears as well, but I would just like a nicer pair and was looking for what others have used.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:19 PM   #22
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Good pair of lock-ring pliers is a must, and I recommend doing it with the T-case still in, wicked easy.
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:58 PM   #23
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one thing i would recommend is when your putting on the slip yolk eliminator kit make sure the gasket material is on correctly. i know it sounds stupid but it get pretty thin on the bottom side and it would suck to have to pull it apart cause it leaks. also i would make sure your angle match, do you have adjustable control arms or cam bolts for upper control arms?
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:08 PM   #24
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one thing i would recommend is when your putting on the slip yolk eliminator kit make sure the gasket material is on correctly. i know it sounds stupid but it get pretty thin on the bottom side and it would suck to have to pull it apart cause it leaks. also i would make sure your angle match, do you have adjustable control arms or cam bolts for upper control arms?

Adjustable CA's
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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
JKS TB (F), Currie TB (R), Currectlync HD Tie Rod System
AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
Novak shifter, Currie AR, Black Magic Brakes
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Old 12-16-2011, 03:32 PM   #25
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After fighting with and breaking a couple cheapo pairs of pliers, I also went to the Matco tool guy. (I know where he lives. ) I installed it while in the Jeep with the back end supported by large jackstands. Plenty of room. I broke the collar where the pick up tube fits in the oil pump, by not being careful.



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Old 12-16-2011, 04:17 PM   #26
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When I did mine I kept the t-case on the vehicle and used tall jack stands. I can't see how accessing the top 2 nuts to remove the t-case is easy at all.

However, I wish I had removed the t-case so I could have replaced my leaky tail shaft seal in my auto tranny.
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:51 PM   #27
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I have a 4" lift on 33's and was recommended i get a SYE but what is the benefit of having one and do I ACTUALLY need it with my setup?
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:58 PM   #28
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If you don't have a TC drop yes you must have a SYE. You will have bad driveline vibes and destroy ujoints on a regular basis. A TC drop is also a dumb idea because it totally defeats the purpose of the lift.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:12 PM   #29
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If you don't have a TC drop yes you must have a SYE. You will have bad driveline vibes and destroy ujoints on a regular basis. A TC drop is also a dumb idea because it totally defeats the purpose of the lift.
^ This. Makes no sense to lift and lower. Unless the Jeep is only used for shopping.
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:28 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by TJDave

^ This. Makes no sense to lift and lower. Unless the Jeep is only used for shopping.
Yeah...I agree. I'm putting a high clearance TC skid on so the SYE is necessary. I hate the stock skid.

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Currie 3" coils, 1" BL, Bilstein 5100's
33x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R Kevlars
JKS TB (F), Currie TB (R), Currectlync HD Tie Rod System
AA SYE / TW DS, UCF HC skid, OR-Fab carrier
Novak shifter, Currie AR, Black Magic Brakes
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