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Old 09-08-2008, 07:35 PM   #31
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What do you mean check my belt tension?How did I know it was loose?? I normally twist the belt to check to see if it is loose or not and can tell but in this case the belt felt tight but if I left the key on very long with out running when first started it would squeal about 30 seconds until the alternator got the battery up to peak voltage also if I turned the wheels all the way one way or the other the belt would squeal from the load of the power steering pump and wouldn't quit until I turned the wheels straight and goosed the throttle a little.This is why I am hoping at higher RPMs when it is overheating that the belt is slipping.Now that I don't think the water pump was the problem all I can do is hope for this now

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Old 09-08-2008, 08:05 PM   #32
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What do you mean check my belt tension?How did I know it was loose?? I normally twist the belt to check to see if it is loose or not and can tell but in this case the belt felt tight but if I left the key on very long with out running when first started it would squeal about 30 seconds until the alternator got the battery up to peak voltage also if I turned the wheels all the way one way or the other the belt would squeal from the load of the power steering pump and wouldn't quit until I turned the wheels straight and goosed the throttle a little.This is why I am hoping at higher RPMs when it is overheating that the belt is slipping.Now that I don't think the water pump was the problem all I can do is hope for this now
Stop at NAPA and pick up a Krikit II belt tension gauge, $14.00, a new belt which is one that has been run for LESS than 15 minutes needs to be set at 180lbs, a used belt which is one that has run for more then 15 minutes needs to be set at 170, the average mechanic when setting by the twist and push method gets it around 90-100lbs. Most car engines use a spring loaded idler that sets the tension, I was surprised when I found out that jeep didn't. Maybe if you did 5 or more jeeps a day you might get to the point where you could 'feel' if it's right but most mechanics do cars and trucks with self adjusting belts so they never really get good at it. Just my opinion and observed experience. Napa will tell you it's for V belts, thats the krikit I the krikit II is for serp belts and fits into your shirt pocket with a pocket clip like a pen.

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Old 09-09-2008, 02:11 AM   #33
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I have got a dial gage at the shop but the last time I tightened it was on the trail by feel.That krikit gage is pretty cool though.I will have to get one.The dial gage I have looks about like a fish scale but has two legs that hold down on the belt while the hook pulls up on it when you release the knob.The problem is I did not know the specs.I haven't been getting it tight enough all along after pulling it for the fan.I only went back to 90lb cause that is what an old belt calls for and 120lb on a new belt according to my dial.I guess now I know.BTW I will pick one of the other guages up mainly cause I like gadgets
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:30 AM   #34
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I have got a dial gage at the shop but the last time I tightened it was on the trail by feel.That krikit gage is pretty cool though.I will have to get one.The dial gage I have looks about like a fish scale but has two legs that hold down on the belt while the hook pulls up on it when you release the knob.The problem is I did not know the specs.I haven't been getting it tight enough all along after pulling it for the fan.I only went back to 90lb cause that is what an old belt calls for and 120lb on a new belt according to my dial.I guess now I know.BTW I will pick one of the other guages up mainly cause I like gadgets
The big pro gauges are nice but you need dam big pockets for them As for the lbs, I got them straight out of the FSM. If you want to see touchy, try a ZJ, 4.0L with ONLY a mechanical fan, no aux electric like the XJ, 140lbs it runs hot, 170lbs, cools right down. One interesting note I picked up, the ZJ fan clutch is according to the people on that group say the ZJ fan clutch is a super heavy duty, more so than the TJ or the XJ. Fact or fiction I don't know, will ask the dealer if the part numbers are different when I go to one today for some intake bolts.
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:07 AM   #35
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I am hoping that this new belt at 180lb will cure my problem.I am glad to hear that you have seen an overheating problem from just the belt being to loose.I have but only remember those being the older V belt types and even then you could hear the belt slip at 60MPH.So hopefully once I get it all back together today I will have top see.Crossing my fingers
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Old 09-09-2008, 10:41 AM   #36
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only other thing i can think of is your exhaust. like your cats are clogged or your Y pipe is bent. you might wanna try a new tstat from the factory. even though yours is new ive had to return several in the past that didnt open when they were supposed too. i test them bu putting them in water and then boiling the water and watching the temp with a gauge
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:06 AM   #37
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only other thing i can think of is your exhaust. like your cats are clogged or your Y pipe is bent. you might wanna try a new tstat from the factory. even though yours is new ive had to return several in the past that didnt open when they were supposed too. i test them bu putting them in water and then boiling the water and watching the temp with a gauge
Thats another one of those dealer OEM only things I use, along with the OEM gasket with the RTV already on it. I went through 2 felpro gaskets in about two hours when I did my wifes ZJ, now I just keep 4 extra OEM tstats and 6 oem gaskets in the tool box. Ever time I go aftermarket on some things I get the short end and have to do it twice or three times.
I just ordered the intake manifold bolts for the TJ so hopefully I'll be able to get things sealed on that.
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Old 09-09-2008, 04:55 PM   #38
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Neah not the exhaust,I did check the stat(both of them)in boiling water and all is good there.I did find today that the bearing in the water pump is bad.I didn't notice it yesterday when I first took it off but today while waiting on the new pump that never did make it,I was fiddling with the old pump and noticed a little play in the shaft so I spun the pulley mount and sure enough it growled at me.After that I could feel the glitch in the bearing while turning it slow.So I am hoping between the bad bearing and the fact that my belt was set no were close to the tension it should have been that was causing my problem.I did get the new hoses,radiator cap and belt today just not the pump
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:04 PM   #39
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hey guys one thing I would check is the rad cap a worn out cap will not allow the system to pressurize the more pressure the longer it takes to heat up. There is no real good way to dyno the spring pressure just take your old cap in to the parts store and compare the tension of it to the new one which should be stiffer.

Also a 180 degree ts shouldn't make that much difference in driveability vs. a 195 the ecm is smart enough to handle a 15 degre temp swing. In fact other than heater temp loss a slightly cooler ts allows the ecm to advance timing allowing for more power.
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Old 09-09-2008, 08:44 PM   #40
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Yeah I didn't figure it would do anything to help with the cooling issue but the 185 was the only HD/HP one they had.I have tested the OE t-stat and the other 195 and the 185 and will more than likely go back with the OE one if and when I get the cooling issue resolved.They all test out to be good although the the standard 195 opens just a little later than the 195 OE stat.The 185 opens way before either of the other two.Yeah I also got a new cap and now have the pump in hand as I had to go get it because my delivery people forgot me.Oh well I can say now that everything to do with the cooling system will be all newOnce I get it back together
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Old 09-10-2008, 01:15 AM   #41
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Hey Nicolas, I know that you probably need a new radiator, but I thought you had picked up a stand alone tranny cooler for your rig also? Don't see it on there, and you mentioned still running tranny fluid thru your stock radiator. Putting that on there should be good for 5 or so degrees for you as well.
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:36 AM   #42
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I have a tranny cooler. Itīs installed in the front of the other coolers. The manual said that I have to install it i a row behind the stock tranny cooler. Do you think that the new tranny cooler would be enough without the stock one? I have this cooler: Flex-A-Lite Heavy-Duty Automatic Transmission Cooler and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware

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Old 09-10-2008, 09:58 AM   #43
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yea that cooler by itself will work fine. no need to run it inline. a warm/cool tranny is a happy trans. about 160 ito 180 is a good operating temp.
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:43 AM   #44
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.. Putting that on there should be good for 5 or so degrees for you as well.
Are you sure?
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Old 09-10-2008, 02:08 PM   #45
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Change the thermostat

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