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Teraflex Lift Kit Problems..

4K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  vooduchikn 
#1 ·
I would like some advice on how to proceed with my latest repair.

Some background - 3 months ago, I purchased a 2004 TJ with a 6" Teraflex lift - it came with some problems. I brought it in to a "trusted" mechanic for an inspection/tune up. He found a ton of problems - crank shaft position sensor was not attached to anything, bad steering damper, incorrect angle on the rear differential, pinion seal leak, bad u joint, and major alignment problems. He fixed everything, and did a tune up for $2500.

I didn't like being hit with such a steep repair cost immediately after buying the Jeep, but I sucked it up and moved forward.

I recently started to experience a wobble/fishtail symptom, and experienced some knocks. I inspected the lift kit and found that one of the flex arms had disintegrated rubber around the ball joint. I looked online and Teraflex offers rebuild kits for ~$25.

I dropped it off, and received a call this afternoon. He said that once the Jeep was on the lift, they found play in all of the joints for the lift kit. He recommended replacing all of the arms, and hit me with a ~$1500 estimate. (He is still finalizing this, but it will be in the range) He wants to replace the flex arms because he said he can't adjust at least 1 of them. To give you an idea of the condition of the metal- the Jeep is from Colorado and has minimal rust.

I want your opinions - The following are the options that I am contemplating:

1) The cheapest option would be to rebuild the joint that failed, lubricate the others, and tackle this later in the season. What am I risking if I continue to use the vehicle with a little bit of play in the joints?

2) I can ask him to rebuild the joint that failed, and attempt to rebuild the others myself.

3) I can use this as an opportunity to upgrade. I don't know that much information about the history of this vehicle, but the maintenance was obviously neglected. If I did this, I'd probably do the work myself. I'm an Electronics Technician, and I have some skills, but not a ton of tools/space to work on the Jeep. I lowered a vehicle when I was young, but I know that the lift will be more intensive. I also do not have welding experience, so I would have to learn or pay someone to do it for me.
 
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#2 ·
I am guessing that these are the control arms you have and the poly bushing is likely what is shot on them.



Personally, if you stick with these control arms, I would learn how to do the bushings yourself as you will likely be replacing them again a few years.
 
#4 ·
I would upgrade, Currie or Metalcloak have the best reviews. I use Currie myself.

I would think you could replace them yourself, if you are the slightest bit handy with a wrench and tape measure. For 1500, that would get you all 8 arms (or close to it)
Labor is killing you.
 
#13 ·
I would upgrade, Currie or Metalcloak have the best reviews. I use Currie myself.

I would think you could replace them yourself, if you are the slightest bit handy with a wrench and tape measure. For 1500, that would get you all 8 arms (or close to it)
Labor is killing you.
+1000 on both.

After having dealt with bushings, I know run JJs and double adjustable arms - never again with bushings and fixed or single adjustable arms.
 
#6 ·
All of the things you listed above that the mechanic did for $2500, you could pretty easily do yourself. There are write-ups and knowledge on all of those factors.

So, going forward, it appears you have an opportunity to address the bushing issue yourself. This offers you an opportunity to not only get to know your Jeep, but saves you money as well. IMO, replacing the bushings on all arms seems like your best bet. Fix the immediate problem, drive and wheel the Jeep, and you can then determine if further upgrades are needed.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the feedback! I cancelled the job - I'll save a ton of money doing it myself. The videos online make it look simple.

Next question - the mechanic informed me that the upper control arms are actually from Rubicon express. Would it be a good idea to consider replacing these in the future?
 
#9 ·
I gotta wave the BS flag on this one as if the crankshaft position sensor was not connected to anything there would be no spark thus engine could not run at all and you could not have driven it anywhere

So either your story is wrong or you were towing it around or the mechanic is not telling you the truth
 
#12 ·
I received the bushings today - fast shipping! It only took 1 day to Alamosa! :)

So far, everything is going pretty good - I replaced the two front lowers - I'll get the rear arms tomorrow. So far, the hardest part was getting the c-ring fully seated. After I did the first one, the 2nd one went in easier. I'm very glad that I ordered the compression tool!

The one problem that I ran into is lining the holes back up. I connected the passenger side with a bit of work, but the drivers side is pretty far off. I didn't have to lift the vehicle to remove the arms. I tried moving the steering wheel, and jacking it up slightly (I didn't get the wheel completely off the ground - I'll try this tomorrow). The old bushings were pretty worn - I suspect that is why I'm having trouble now. If lifting the jeep doesn't work, will the control arms need to be adjusted?

I'm a bit worried that my mechanic may have adjusted the control arm for the "worn bushing" position, and not the true adjustment. If so, he should have noted the worn bushings when he did the alignment.
 
#14 ·
Measure the "good" side (center to center) and compare and adjust to match if necessary. You will get it to align, but it might take some creative jack work/pry bar and a second person. I recommend another alignment after you replace all arms/bushings.
 
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