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Old 03-01-2007, 01:01 AM   #1
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Terrible Driving TJ

I drove my friends 2000 TJ Sport home last night to swap out the CD player with a stock radio and it drives TERRIBLE!! He has a 4 inch skyjacker lift and 35 inch radial tires. I saw about an inch of transfer case drop so I am assuming he doesn't have a SYE and different drive shaft. It also has double steering stabilizers. It is almost scary to drive, pulling back and forth as you drive down the road. He is trading it off this weekend so he wouldn't be interested in trying to get it straightened out but I was just wondering if this is what I will have to look forward to whenever I decide to go to a larger lift and tires?? If it will drive like this there is no way I would do it to mine. My jeep drives like a vehicle should, not a cadillac ride but it drives good. I don't know what needed to be done, has been done, or many specifics about his jeep but I am assuming this is a fixable problem because I know that there would not be this many people driving lifted Jeeps if they drove the way his did!!

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Old 03-01-2007, 01:28 AM   #2
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I'm on 5.5 of lift, 35's, and Detroit (auto) Locker in the rear and mine does not drive like that unless I have my swaybars disconnected. Then it is flat out scary and speed.

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Old 03-01-2007, 03:07 AM   #3
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mine drives better then stock with the RE kit
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:14 AM   #4
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Most lifted jeeps drive just fine. Most likey you buddy has a few things that need adjusted or greased. Not sure why he has two front steering shocks though.. that is over kill.
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:50 AM   #5
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Check the toe-in settings. If it is toe-out even a tiny bit, it will wander all over the road. It should be toe-in 1/16 to 1/8 inch. That should help.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:30 AM   #6
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mine drives better then stock with the RE kit

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Old 03-01-2007, 05:35 PM   #7
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:53 PM   #8
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..... does not drive like that unless I have my swaybars disconnected.
Sounds likely. Or alignment.

Mine is Rancho'd (4" ?) with 33's, drives fine at all speeds.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:17 PM   #9
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when done correctly, a lifted jeep will drive just as it did off the factory floor, if not slightly better .... ride will be rougher though
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:47 AM   #10
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I know the swaybar was connected but I am sure that nothing was done but the lift and wheels and tires and transfer case drop. I know when I go higher I want to get everything that I need from the get go so i don't have problems like this.
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:51 AM   #11
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He's screwed up at least a few things... first, the double steering stabilizers which just overworks the power steering. Then the alignment is probably way off from your description. More than likely his toe-in is way off and possibly insufficient Caster angle. I also wouldn't doubt that he installed a dropped Pitman arm which on most TJ suspension lifts just causes bumpsteer.
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:00 PM   #12
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probl. a bad install..... when you do yours if you dont do it yourself make sure you find someone you can trust knows what there doing/done it before ... After buying my lift it took me over a month to find someone that has done these kits before and knows what there doin.... gettim mine done next weekend
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:07 PM   #13
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I also wouldn't doubt that he installed a dropped Pitman arm which on most TJ suspension lifts just causes bumpsteer.
Like in another thread, this information is extremely wrong. A drop pitman arm cannot CAUSE bumpsteer. The pitman arm is static relative to the movement of the axle when steering geometry is correct. A draglink pointed upward is what causes bumpsteer. When the axle articulates, if the geometry is correct, the draglink will articulate in a up and down motion. However, if the draglink is on too steep of an angle the upward movement of the axle (passenger side) cause the draglink to push up and into the pitman arm. The pitman arm then moves due to this transfer of upward force by the draglink - bumpsteer. It will also happen in the negative when the axle pulls on a draglink that is too steep.
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Old 03-02-2007, 09:48 PM   #14
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To really just answer ur question... Do some research and buy a quality lift and have it installed by someone who knows what they are doing.

My advice is to spend extra money (if u have to) to get well built parts and a good install the first time. Cutting corners may save some money when u do the install, but you will end up wishing u spent the extra $$ to do it right.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:13 PM   #15
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Like in another thread, this information is extremely wrong. A drop pitman arm cannot CAUSE bumpsteer. The pitman arm is static relative to the movement of the axle when steering geometry is correct. A draglink pointed upward is what causes bumpsteer. When the axle articulates, if the geometry is correct, the draglink will articulate in a up and down motion. However, if the draglink is on too steep of an angle the upward movement of the axle (passenger side) cause the draglink to push up and into the pitman arm. The pitman arm then moves due to this transfer of upward force by the draglink - bumpsteer. It will also happen in the negative when the axle pulls on a draglink that is too steep.
You are mistaken. This is a subject I am intimately familiar with and I assure you that on a TJ with a 6" or shorter lift, installing a dropped Pitman arm when nothing else has been changed in the steering system WILL cause bumpsteer. 100% of the time, EVERY time. The ONLY time a dropped Pitman arm should be installed on a TJ is when the trackbar's upper mount has also been dropped.

You see, the drag link and trackbar must be parallel to each other. The more they move out of that relationship, the more bumpsteer that is produced.

Go look at a stock TJ and you will see that they are parallel. Now envision dropping the upper end of the drag link which is what happens when the Pitman arm is dropped. You will see that they will no longer be parallel which is how bumpsteer is developed. To move them back into their parallel relationship, you must either install a similar upper dropped mount for the trackbar, or reinstall the OE Pitman arm which will then raise the drag link back up so it is once again parallel.

Your insistance that installing a dropped Pitman arm will not cause bumpsteer without other modifications being present is totally and 100% incorrect.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:46 PM   #16
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What you are describing is not the fault of the pitman arm. You're describing a situation where someone installs two different tire sizes and then blames the wheels for uneven tire wear.

Fact is the pitman arm does not cause bumpsteer, poor build does. As for stock being good up to six inches, that is well outside of the design and aticulation range of the ball-joint at the pitman arm.

We will have to disagree, but I will put my money on mechanical facts, engineers, and too many builds with different manufacturers lifts. Further than that it doesn't pass the logic test that the whole lift industry is conspiring to make drop pitman arms to get us all bumpsteering down the road.

The correct answer is what Affende posted for the other thread I mentioned.
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both.

track bar doesnt correct your steering geometry, but it does locate your axle side to side. (when you lift your jeep, your axle gets pulled to the drivers side slightly, a longer tracbar fixes this).

the drop pitman arm does fix your steering geometry, which is also needed. if you put on a drop pitman arm, the factory steering geometry is kept.

but it is ALWAYS best to do both at the same time. if your trac-bar and draglink are not parallel, you WILL get bumpsteer to some extent .... how bad it will be depends on the difference in angle

do both

you can skimp on seats, paint, mirrors, fuzzy dice, etc. but NEVER skinp on steering, suspension, brakes, and rollcages ... among other things that could save / endanger you or someone else

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