After a trip to the Jeep dealer on Friday, I think I have my transmission problem figured out. The mechanic told me that I've got problems with the clutches in my torque converter comming apart and the debris from it has damaged the clutches in the transmission. They are recommending replacing the trans and torque converter to the tune of $2,850.
This revelation has forced my hand and I've decided to park the Jeep and buy a cheep commuter car to replace it as my daily driver. That way I can work on the Jeep at my leisure.
I think the best solution is to try and find a low mileage replacement trans at a salvage yard or from a private party. Here's my big question: What's the best Jeep transmission to replace it with? I have a 2004 Unlimited and I want to stay with an automatic transmission. I'm thinking of going with a '04 Rubicon transmission and transfer case. Would I have any problems with the TCM? I'm thinking it should bolt right in. I know that if I go newer than a '04, I'll have to deal with TCM/ECM issues. I'm lookin' at this as a chance to upgrade, but I don't want to cause myself any grief by going the wrong direction.
Any ideas on a different approach are welcome. Thanks in advance for your input.
The auto tranny and t=case from a 04 rubi will indeed bolt right up.
The transmission is the same as you have now in your unlimited.
42rle - 2003-2006
* 4 speed automatic
* Used with both 4 cyl and 6 cyl models to include rubicon and extended tj models (LJ)
1st - 2.84, 2nd - 1.57, 3rd - 1.00, 4th - 0.69, Rev - 2.21
The 42rle is the better of the factory jeep transmissions.
You would not need to do anything to the TCM.
Only upgrade you will get from using the rubi tranny and t-case is from the t-case itself.
The rubi NV241 rock-trac has a 4:1 Low range and has a electronic speedo signal.
The normal TJ/LJ NV231 command-trac has a 2.72:1 low range and has a gear driven speedo signal.
The low range of the NV241 will be great for crawling around. Only issue you mite have is the speedo signal...but that is also easy to deal with.
Also you will need to deal with the drive shaft if you use a rubi t-case.
The NV241 uses a fixed yoke and the NV231 uses a slip yoke.
If you do find the tranny / t-case from a junk yard get the drive shaft also.....BUT>>>the drive shaft must be from a LJ..the TJ shaft will odviously be to short.
Other option is to have one made or give Tom Woods a call.
“He who knows not and knows not that he knows not, he is a fool, shun him.
He who knows not and knows he knows not, he is simple, teach him.
He who knows and knows not he knows, he is asleep, wake him.
But he who knows, and knows he knows, he is wise, follow him.”
89 yj 4 banger 5sp. 2" BL 31x10.50 fixed up and sold
97 tj 4.0 Auto 4"RC lift 33x12.50 mud rovers on outlaw IIs . Smitty bumpers
Thanks DTJ... That is what I thought. I was planning on installing a SYE on the tcase I have now, so I was planning on installing a new driveshaft anyway. I'm told that I can get a trans and tcase out of a rubi for a little more than the trans alone. I was told that the Rubi trans was geared a bit different, but I guess that a 42RLE is a 42RLE. So no bonus there..
By the way.... I just wanted you to know that I pray for you (and a group of other friends I have over in the sand) every night. I figure God knows who DistortedTJ is, since I don't know your name. Anyway, stay safe. And thanks for your service. There are still a few over here who apprieciate what you do.
Brian, the xfer case between an rubi and non rubi is HUGE.
The non is a 3-1. Rubi is 4-1. I swear that sometimes I feel like I'm cheating with that xfer case. Things that used to be challenging are easy. Things that used to be impossible without the winch are do-able.
If I could buy a X or Sport with a rear 44 and a 4-1 xfer case, I'd jump. Lockers and other upgrade are easy and/or cheap!