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Old 01-21-2010, 01:42 PM   #1
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Tie Rod installation

I got a replacement tie rod and brackets for my jeep and they came in today. I was wondering if anyone has done this before?

I'm not sure what part to take off, on my 1998 wrangler sahara there are rubber suctions (not sure that's the word) near the brackets and was wondering if I keep those on or what?

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

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Old 01-21-2010, 02:15 PM   #2
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For the Tie Rod, it should be as easy as removing the castle nuts from the knuckles and the removing Tierod.

The easiest way I've found so far, is using a BFH style (Big F'n Hammer)

Use some PB blaster to help penatrate the Tie Rod End and castle Nut

Remove your battery cables and remove the front tires.

After removing cotter pins and castle nuts from the Tie Rod Ends,
you'll want to use a sledge hammer for hitting the knuckle at where the Tie Rod End goes thru. Typically the vibration of hitting the knuckle will help the tie-rods pop off. it will definately take a few good hard hits, but it does work. Hopefully you dont have alot of rust to deal with.

So far for me it works better then the pickle fork method. The pickel fork usually destroys the rubber boot if trying to reuse.

Does your new Tie Rod come with Tie Rod Ends as well....

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Old 01-21-2010, 02:19 PM   #3
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I replaced my tie rod a while back. It was pretty straight forward as my new tie rod came complete with new tie rod ends, so it was a simple remove and replace type of job. I'm not sure as to the brackets that you are referring to, but all you should need to do is pull the pins and unbolt the tie rod from the driver's side knuckle and the draglink . . . use a tie rod puller (HF sells them cheap and it's easier than pounding on the pry fork tool with a hammer) to get the tie rod off. If your new tie rod is complete with new ends then just adjust it's length to get it close to your old one . . . if the old one is bent bad, maybe make the new one a tad bit longer and bolt it right back where you pulled the old one off. If you only got the rod then you'll need to take your old ends and put them on the new rod. The suction cups are just dust boots that will hold grease and help keep contaminents out . . . they should stay on the tie rod ends . . . if you use a fork vs a puller, you'll probably destroy them when you pull the old rod, so if your new rod didn't come with new ends, you might want to buy a couple new dust boots and put them on before installing the new rod (they're a buck or two each). Once the tie rod is in, check your toe in and adjust accordingly.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:23 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by snwchris View Post
For the Tie Rod, it should be as easy as removing the castle nuts from the knuckles and the removing Tierod.

The easiest way I've found so far, is using a BFH style (Big F'n Hammer)

Use some PB blaster to help penatrate the Tie Rod End and castle Nut

Remove your battery cables and remove the front tires.

After removing cotter pins and castle nuts from the Tie Rod Ends,
you'll want to use a sledge hammer for hitting the knuckle at where the Tie Rod End goes thru. Typically the vibration of hitting the knuckle will help the tie-rods pop off. it will definately take a few good hard hits, but it does work. Hopefully you dont have alot of rust to deal with.

So far for me it works better then the pickle fork method. The pickel fork usually destroys the rubber boot if trying to reuse.

Does your new Tie Rod come with Tie Rod Ends as well....
Looks like we were typing at the same time! I'm curious as to why you would suggest removing the battery cables and front tires to replace the tie rod?
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:26 PM   #5
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I did as safety... for air bags...

cause when hitting the Knuckle with the sledge hammer, didn't want to worry if accidentally set-off air bags, since didn't know where sensors were located.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:27 PM   #6
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+1 removing battery cables and front wheels is not necessary. I can without a doubt guarantee that there are no airbag sensors on the knuckles

Wrench of appropriate size for castle nut, wrench for locknut on tierod, dykes for cotter key, and BFH are the tools needed. Penetrating oil may be needed

I've done this, and many other front end R&R's somewhere around 10000 times.

One note - good practice -after you remove the castle nut, thread it back on 2-3 threads...this prevents you from getting smacked when the tie rod falls. Also prevents you smashing the threads on the tierod when you miss the knuckle. and hit the tie rod... after ever 2-3 hits with BFH, tap on the top of the castle nut to see if its ready...sometimes it will drop without this, sometimes it won't.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:30 PM   #7
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no kidding, there's none on the knuckles... LOL

Just a safety factor and habit.
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Old 01-21-2010, 02:35 PM   #8
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If it makes you feel better to do it, there is no harm....but its not necessary. a hammer will not trigger 2 sensors hard enough at the same time unless you take the sensors off and smash them with said hammer.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:03 PM   #9
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Don't forget you will have to realign the front end after you replace the tie-rod. Here is a good link for you to know how to do it easily. Basic Jeep Front End Alignment
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:23 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone,
I do have the tie rod ends (the ones that go to wheel well) I ordered this...

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.as...0&partID=51016

so whatever I need to replace for this to fit in...

I know it is cheap, only thing I can afford atm and my other tie rod is RUSTED SHUT I can't move it at all. I tried everything possible.

Pics help me alot lol
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:28 PM   #11
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One other thing I would do before you start taking parts off... measure the distance the rod ends are set too and write it down. This way should something move, you have a reference point.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:31 PM   #12
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Thanks everyone,
I do have the tie rod ends (the ones that go to wheel well) I ordered this...

Tie Rod Kit by Omix-Ada and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware

so whatever I need to replace for this to fit in...

I know it is cheap, only thing I can afford atm and my other tie rod is RUSTED SHUT I can't move it at all. I tried everything possible.

Pics help me alot lol
Looks like a straight forward stock style tie rod, so just remove and replace . . . won't be too bad. Wouldn't be a bad idea to hit the old tie rod with some pb blaster as soon as possible and even a couple of times if you aren't going to do it right away . . . you could even give it a little tapping action with a hammer just to help it work in . . . little prework might make it drop out easier.
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:39 PM   #13
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That's gonna be really easy.

Remove cotter key from each castle nut, then loosen castle nut. whack with BFH (as described above).

Remove it as one piece. Measure and make the new one the same length as the old one. replace.

once its on you can DIY set the toe, or if you don't feel comfortable, just take it to an alignment shop to have the toe set.If you can measure 1/2 decent you'll be really close. (assuming your toe is close to begin with)
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Old 01-21-2010, 03:45 PM   #14
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Ummm. if the rod ends arent bad (loose) and the tie rod isnt bent like a pretzel

why not just blast the threads with penetrating oil for a couple of days then use a pipe wrench to break loose

they're always hard to move especially if you live in the rust belt

JMHO

Good luck

P.S. your new one will be the same way in 6 months
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:07 PM   #15
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Ummm. if the rod ends arent bad (loose) and the tie rod isnt bent like a pretzel

why not just blast the threads with penetrating oil for a couple of days then use a pipe wrench to break loose

they're always hard to move especially if you live in the rust belt

JMHO

Good luck

P.S. your new one will be the same way in 6 months
I know it will.. This one was never taken care of in about 10 years... I sprayed will penetrating oil and PB blaster already for 2 weeks and nothing moved with a pipe wrench, even tried banging on the edges where the threads meet and still nothing popped.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:40 PM   #16
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Alright so I'm starting my Tie Rod and Drag Link installation tonight... (finally) I'm gonna post some pics of the new goodies this tie rod is a BEAST. I am still trying to figure out how I'm going to jack it up (jack is too short, maybe use some wood?) and where should I mount the jack? to the left of the pumpkin so it's center?

Any advice will be great, I got most of the info already just might need some extra on the way... Hope you enjoy, will update as process goes on.

First is the old setup


New goodies


And comparison of the old one and the new one.


Sorry if that last picture is blurry but I had to use some muscle to hold it with one hand and snap the pic lol.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:42 PM   #17
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Oh and ummm I just noticed... All that fluid on the diff, what is that? I see in the other pics coming from where the hose meets radiator, how do I fix that?
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Old 02-11-2010, 06:30 PM   #18
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Looks like a Diff Leak and also looks like your Steering Box is leaking as well.

Diff, probably need to scrap the RTV and put some new RTV on... Or even better are the Lube Locker gaskets from 4wd.com, they are reusable.

Steering box, is propbably seal where the Pitman Arm and gear go into box
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:10 PM   #19
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Thanks.
I do need to a fluid change on the diff... I looked under it earlier and the fluid was green... and for the steering box.. How do I fix that? Just take pitman arm off?
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:20 PM   #20
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I found the spot... I think
It was in the action of dripping.. lol I zoomed in for yall

Here it is.


Let me know what I can do.. It might just be to replace the hose
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:31 PM   #21
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Looks like the radiator is leaking from what I can see.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:47 PM   #22
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yea with the better pic, definately a radiator leak, looks like lower connection and possible corner as well
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Old 02-11-2010, 08:43 PM   #23
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Ok guys, last picture of the radiator because this is a tie rod thread...

It's not coming from the radiator it's coming from the back part...


I think I can just replace the hose
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:03 AM   #24
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Ok guys, last picture of the radiator because this is a tie rod thread...

It's not coming from the radiator it's coming from the back part...


I think I can just replace the hose
Would be nice if you get off easy with just having to replace the hose . . . good place to start as the hose won't set you back much. Good Luck!
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:48 AM   #25
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Alright guys, thanks for the advice. I'll take it to a shop soon.

I have a problem with my stabilizer up front, it WON'T come about from the drag link!

Here's pictures of the process. I have been banging this thing with my little sledgehammer ALOT!



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Old 02-12-2010, 10:02 AM   #26
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I need some help! Could I replace that bolt?
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:05 AM   #27
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I need some help! Could I replace that bolt?
Referring to the stabilizer?

If so, just buy a new one.
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:17 AM   #28
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I don't have time to wait for one... Is there just a bolt I can replace? I can try and cut the bolt between the drag link and stabilizer and take bolt out of stabilizer because I don't need it out of the drag link...
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:28 AM   #29
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The problem is that bolt is tapered so it's not like you can just go to the hardware store and pick up another bolt that'll fit in there. Seeing that you have a full replacement set up with both a new drag link and tie rod, don't worry about it. If that's an old or stock stabalizer, you should replace it anyway, they are pretty cheap, and the new one will come with new hardware. It might feel a bit rough, but driving around for a bit without a stablizer isn't going to hurt anything. You can also try using a puller on it vs whacking it with the sledge, and from the looks of the pic, it looks like you are trying to remove it from the draglink while the other end of the Stablizer is still connected to the Jeep . . . dude, it's just one bolt, pull the whole thing out of there where you can really get to it, maybe use a block of wood to support it and give it a good solid whack and it'll probably come out, but whacking on it as it's hanging there like in the pic isn't going to get you very far.
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Old 02-12-2010, 12:20 PM   #30
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Got it off. Because of you I took the whole thing off. Lol

put it back on ummm couldn't screw the nut back on... Threads were crashed so I just ordered a new one

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