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Tie Rod nut won't Tighten

13K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  cballou 
#1 ·
So I've been battling a shimmy/shake in the front end for a little while now. During this process I've replaced the entire steering linkage with new parts. When putting on the new Tie Rod (did the ZJ replacement) I noticed that I could not get the driver's side to tighten. Basically I can tighten it as much as I want, it never seems to get any tighter. At this point the nut is way below the hole for the pin. Is there any chance that the hole has wallowed out so now the tapered bolt isn't doing it's job? If so, what can I do to fix it?
 
#5 ·
This my issue! Mine looks exactly like that, I can keep tightening and tightening but the resistance never increases. There is a chance that the actual stud is spinning but I would imagine the issue would be the same as you stated, the hole is too big or the taper is to small. I bought the correct TRE from MOOG so I would imagine the hole is too big. In that case, how do I fix it?
 
#9 ·
You need to seperate a couple things. First, the nut would have to eventually tighten up UNLESS the stud spins at some point. Use a wrench on the nut, not a socket, and watch the pin hole in the stud turn with the wrench.

Second, if the stud isn't fitting into the taper of the knuckle properly, either the stud or the hole has a dimensional issue. The "cracked" comment would mean the knuckle is damaged and able to expand as you put pressure on it by trying to tighten the nut. Should be easy to see visually if that's the case.
 
#12 ·
Awesome, glad it isn't too difficult! Now the hard part is coming up with the money to purchase the part. Quick question: My jeep is a '98 and I have no idea of the maintenance history, would it be worth it to replace my ball joints at the same time?

Jerry, I'd also like to add that you're awesome! I see your comments everywhere on here and you give amazing advice to the inexperienced folks like me.
 
#13 ·
Anyone know which way to turn the stock Tie Rod to extend it or shorten it? For example, if I were facing the jk and gripped the tie rod with my right hand and rotated the tie rod clockwise (pushing the rod forward/over top/upperward rotation) what is the result? Lengthening or shortening?
 
#17 · (Edited)
I'm not so quick to agree that changing the ball joints out would not be a good idea while the knuckles are off. Your TJ is old enough that your ball joints aren't exactly the same spec they were when the factory installed them.

I just replaced my knuckles last month and while they were off, I thought it'd be stupid not to also replace the ball joints. While it is definitely a physically PITA job, new Spicer ball joints aren't expensive enough to put the job off.
 
#18 ·
I just replaced my knuckles last month and while they were off, I thought it'd be stupid not to also replace the ball joints. While it is definitely a physically PITA job, new Spicer ball joints aren't expensive enough to put the job off.
That was my thought exactly. If I'm already removing the knuckle to replace it doesn't seem like much of a leap to do the ball joints while I'm there. Although, at this point I would assume I should do both sides which would add a significant amount of work to the project.
 
#22 ·
Agreed basically just an oversized turnbuckle one end right had thread the other left

As to which direction of rotation lengthens and which shortened it all depends on the perspective you view it from but just looking at the single short tie rod end its stem has a left had thread whereas the threads on the long rod stem are right handed

The pictured end is left hand threaded

So I guess I agree with both of you
 
#23 ·
That makes sense the more I think about it. Whenever I have done tie-rods in the past they have always been lefty threads, but they have also been a different style setup on a steering rack rather than our bar.

I guess I got lucky when I only replaced the driverside of the tie-rod in my cousins jeep and it was a lefty to- we didn't touch the other side, but it makes sense when I think about it now:beerdrinking:
 
#25 · (Edited)
To get the proper torque on the nut and still use the cotter pin correctly I had to add some washers below the nut, above the steering knuckle. Please take a look at the image below, do you think this could cause other issues?

View attachment 1491465
cballou, I did the ZJ tie rod swap, too. You can see by my TRE that yours is WAY too long. either you got the wrong part number or the step has pulled out. I do not think that you should use it. Get another. They are cheap. Get Moog. If you already have Moog, take it back and see whether they will refund your money.

If it has pulled that far out it could come all the way out. I bought my gear through rockauto.com and used Moog part number ES3096L. Is that what you bought? If so, is that what it says on the box? It is possible that the wrong part was in the right box.

$23.79 for a new one.

More Information for MOOG ES3096L

What you have looks so wrong that I have to believe that it is either defective or the wrong length stud.

Good luck!
 
#32 ·
The hole is part of the knuckle. If the hole is too big I am sure there are fixes, but in my experience I would *only* buy another knuckle. I would pull one at a junkyard for cheap. They are not cheap, new. And I would not trust most fixes. The TRE is cheap.

The only way to tell is to yank one of your other ends and see if it fits. All the studs/holes are the same size and taper, AFAIK. But you will have to knock loose yet another of these normally pretty stubborn parts. I would remove the other end of the tie rod and flip it to see if that end fits. If it does, your end is bad (or the incorrect one). If it does the same thing your knuckle hole is wallowed out and needs to be fixed or replaced.

And I already said that for safety and longevity I would opt to use a good condition junkyard part since the knuckle has no moving parts and the hole would normally be protected by the old TRE that is currently living there.

My issue for such a bit of work is that there are zero Jeep TJs in my area except at one yard where you order the parts in advance and then come pick them up, which is a lot more expensive. We only have a single pick-n-pull-type of yard and it has zero TJs. If they *do* get one they sell it to a sister yard in another state right away. The yards around here specialize, and none of them specialize in what I own.

Good luck.
 
#37 ·
None. They do not sell any Jeep or Chrysler stuff at all. All our yards specialize in certain makes. None within three hours sell any Jeep stuff save for the one that feeds used parts to the dealers. They charge a lot, too. Might as well buy new!
 
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