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Old 11-30-2013, 03:07 PM   #1
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Tj control arms need some opinions

Have 700 bucks to buy some control arms. I'd love to be able to curries or metal cloak but don't have that kinda money. So just wanted to get all your thoughts I have 3.75 lift on my jeep and I'm gonna be doing an sye as well. I don't do a lot of off-roading and just wanna get caster and pinions set where they need to be and don't want loose ride quality. I was looking at rubicon express , rock krawler and rough country . Also wanted thoughts maybe not replace all the ca just just replace the ones that need to be done and get better quality ones.

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Old 11-30-2013, 03:33 PM   #2
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Go with the rk. Or you could go with Currie or mc lowers, and run the rk uppers. The rk are $169 a pair from Qtec(free shipping). I actually replaced my rear RE uppers with rk ones

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Old 11-30-2013, 03:35 PM   #3
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Not an expert, but if it were me I would just save a little more and go with metal cloak or currie. You are already 700 deep into it, might as well go a little more and do it right from the start.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:02 PM   #4
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I'd wait too, but that's my plan for my rig. If you don't want to wait then get what you can or whatever fits in your budget. I was looking at the aluminum hex arm set on MC's website this morning when I ordered my front track bar, and I know what I'm getting when the time comes. I'll be making the stockers work for now even if I have to replace them with cheap stock replacements for now.

It's just for me I'd rather add $485 more to the budget and wait than spend $700 and not be satisfied.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:52 PM   #5
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Wait. I wouldn't recommend any of them. You're very close to being able to afford much better arms.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:04 PM   #6
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I just installed the JKS lower control arms on my LJ. The quality is exceptional, and they use factory style bushings for easy repairs should they need to be fixed. Another benefit is that the two ends rotate freely once set for length, so you have a stock feeling with ride with way more flex than any other ca will allow.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:25 PM   #7
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Lol I have no problem spending the extra money just my better half has another thought
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:46 PM   #8
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With under 4" lift, could you not just do the rear uppers and front lowers?
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:04 PM   #9
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I replaced mine with Currie and have no regrets at all. Like you, I couldn't quite afford them all at once, so I did the rears on the first go around, then did the fronts several months later. I love the johnny joints. It sure tightened up everything. I understand that Metalcloaks are also pretty nice, but I haven't personally experienced them.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_13 View Post
With under 4" lift, could you not just do the rear uppers and front lowers?
Please list the technical reasons as to why you think this.
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:35 PM   #11
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1 reason is my front spring is hitting on the bumpstop and second I have a vibration when accellerationg cause of the angle it's at . 3rd the arms are in rough shape doe to the rust
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
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Old 11-30-2013, 07:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post

Please list the technical reasons as to why you think this.
Rear uppers allow the pinion to be adjusted. Front lowers allow adjustment to get pinion and caster dialed in.

With only a 3.5" lift that would likely be enough no?....

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong....
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:01 PM   #14
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I only suggested because everyone is telling him to save more/spend more on better arms instead of doing a full set of arms that aren't as good as the MC or Savvy or Currie arms.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:17 PM   #15
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I don't think it's "wrong" but I think to rotate the axle around an axis that maintains proper caster and whatnots one would need to adjust length of both upper and lower arms. Of course I'm operating on limited knowledge of solid axle stuff.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:48 PM   #16
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Just uppers or lowers will push or pull the axle in and may cause interference issues. I've seen JK folks get away with using uppers for pinion angle. Still not the right way, but we have longer control arms than the TJ. Dunno ... Seen Imped on Jk forums preaching his famous words "don't give CA's duties"
They work together as a team. You want at full stuff the bumpstop to line up with the pad. Pretty much putting your axle back to where it is stock or better. Only one set of arms that doesn't happen. 4" is a lot of lift ... You have to pay to play.

Sure Imped will correct me somewhere here
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_13 View Post
Rear uppers allow the pinion to be adjusted. Front lowers allow adjustment to get pinion and caster dialed in.

With only a 3.5" lift that would likely be enough no?....

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong....
adjusting the pinion angle with the uppers only in the rear can push the diff into gas tank. you use lowers that can be adjusted shorter than stock to rotate the axle about the hub center, not about the lower control arm bolt.

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Just uppers or lowers will push or pull the axle in and may cause interference issues. I've seen JK folks get away with using uppers for pinion angle.
JK's don't have to worry about pushing the axle into a gas tank. They do have to worry about track bar, sway bar link & brake line interference issues though.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:34 PM   #18
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My experience is that I have used uppers to dial in pinion angle and lowers to center the axle in the wheel well and somewhat decreasing the angle of the arms by extending the lowers a bit
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:23 AM   #19
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Quote:
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My experience is that I have used uppers to dial in pinion angle and lowers to center the axle in the wheel well and somewhat decreasing the angle of the arms by extending the lowers a bit
You're not paying attention, then. What's going on at full bump? What happens to the housing when you change the length of one set of arms?
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:13 AM   #20
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1 reason is my front spring is hitting on the bumpstop
what type of extension did you do?

I always do a pad on the bottom spring mount and leave the oem bumpstop as is. gives the same benefit and eliminates the problem of the bumpstop hitting the coil
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:31 PM   #21
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Wait. I wouldn't recommend any of them. You're very close to being able to afford much better arms.
I followed your 'Daily Driver Buildup' thread, but I couldn't figure out what control arms you are running. I am in need of new control arms as well for the same reason as the OP. Curries??
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:11 PM   #22
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I followed your 'Daily Driver Buildup' thread, but I couldn't figure out what control arms you are running. I am in need of new control arms as well for the same reason as the OP. Curries??
What build would that be?

I run custom aluminum control arms with Metalcloak Duroflex ends. I don't run stock control arm mounts so my arms aren't stock length.
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:17 PM   #23
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I followed your 'Daily Driver Buildup' thread, but I couldn't figure out what control arms you are running. I am in need of new control arms as well for the same reason as the OP. Curries??
Currie, rockmen or metalcloack do you well. Shop for price on one of those 3 and you are golden. Try Gerald from Savvy he has pretty sharp prices on Currie stuff
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Old 12-01-2013, 05:16 PM   #24
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What build would that be?

I run custom aluminum control arms with Metalcloak Duroflex ends. I don't run stock control arm mounts so my arms aren't stock length.
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Currie, rockmen or metalcloack do you well. Shop for price on one of those 3 and you are golden. Try Gerald from Savvy he has pretty sharp prices on Currie stuff
Imped - Would you care to give some specs on your control arm lengths and how you mounted them?

Imped's Daily Driver Build - My Build - Several photos are missing from this thread. I'm interested in seeing how you built your control arms, their lengths, etc. for going for a mid-arm length.

I am leaning towards Currie, Metalcloak and JKS - They all appear to have great benefits.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:35 PM   #25
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Imped - Would you care to give some specs on your control arm lengths and how you mounted them?

Imped's Daily Driver Build - My Build - Several photos are missing from this thread. I'm interested in seeing how you built your control arms, their lengths, etc. for going for a mid-arm length.

I am leaning towards Currie, Metalcloak and JKS - They all appear to have great benefits.
First 2 good choice, latter not so anything with solid urethane bushings for offroading is not really good choice. Reasons are quite obvious
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:06 PM   #26
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First 2 good choice, latter not so anything with solid urethane bushings for offroading is not really good choice. Reasons are quite obvious
My equipment needs to hold up during long-range, harsh trips to Baja. I'd really like to run the longer 'mid arms' that Imped runs. Getting some made would be better in the long run.
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4" 33" to 35"
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #27
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i would try and save and go with MC or currie, and don't here much about them but rokmen offroad arms. I think they use the JJ's on there arms and customer service is top notch. not that currie or MC isn't.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:53 PM   #28
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My equipment needs to hold up during long-range, harsh trips to Baja. I'd really like to run the longer 'mid arms' that Imped runs. Getting some made would be better in the long run.
Maybe time to have a talk with Blaine is order, unless you are pretty good at fabricating
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:02 AM   #29
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Imped - Would you care to give some specs on your control arm lengths and how you mounted them?

Imped's Daily Driver Build - My Build - Several photos are missing from this thread. I'm interested in seeing how you built your control arms, their lengths, etc. for going for a mid-arm length.

I am leaning towards Currie, Metalcloak and JKS - They all appear to have great benefits.
My build thread on JF is kept up to date. I quit caring about the one on here long ago.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:40 PM   #30
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My build thread on JF is kept up to date. I quit caring about the one on here long ago.
371 pages? Seriously?
'rock crawling go-cart' or something - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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4" 33" to 35"
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