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TJ rides horribly with six inch lift

5K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  Zack88 
#1 ·
I put another post asking more specifics about rear suspension. Before getting to deep on it I'll ask input on this

Why does my TJ ride worse than my one ton truck I pull it with?! Six inch skyjacker long arm, still running skyjacker coils and less than 5k miles on the skyjacker hydro 8000 shocks. 35'S at 12lbs of air wheeling.

It flexes great and I have the bumpstops set to keep the shock from bottoming out, just cruising the trails though beats you to death! My girlfriend and I both have bruises after a weekend on the trails with five point harnesses on.

I know the cheap shocks are playing a role in it but the coils have to be a big time player is all I can think of.

I'm going to lower it from six inches down to four because it's just too tall and high center of gravity, of course I'm changing coils then and I hear great things about the Currie 4" springs?

I'm torn between Fox and Bilstein shocks for it as I want something that will last and give us a decent ride. Speaking of shocks, I'm going to outboard the rear at the same time to gain some stability and travel since I will have to limit my up travel more ill gain down.

The rear coil buckets are also going to get relocated to get the springs back straight up and down.

Any other suggestions while I'm at all this?
 
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#2 ·
I know the cheap shocks are playing a role in it but the coils have to be a big time player is all I can think of.
Those roles are reversed. I still have the skyjacker 2.5" coils on that the previous owner installed on my LJ. I replaced the craptastic shocks with some Bilstein 5100's (not the best but good enough for me for now) and it's a whole different animal. Those springs will be replaced but it's not any emergency. Sounds to me like you're getting ready to do some much needed alterations, good on you. I spend all of my time in vehicles paying attention to what it doesn't do that I want it to, and what it does do that I don't want it to. Then I develop a plan to achieve my goals.
 
#3 ·
My original lift was skyjacker and I was changing it all out in less than a year. Terrible all the way around. I suspect your issue is your shocks plus you are running too much air pressure in your 35's. Try dropping psi down to 8 or 9 on the trails....You'll be much happier with the ride and the grip.

I changed my old skyjacker junk out for OME springs OME nitro charger shocks, and Currie CA's. It now rides and handles better than stock on 35's.
 
#4 ·
I'm running 15x10 wheels is the reason for 12 lbs anything less I have problems popping the bead, really need bead locks on it.

My frame has developed a very small rust issue so the jeep is parked while I get all the parts to tear the rear end apart and repair the frame so I figured since it has to be disassembled is the time to make all the changes I want. I'm building a hardcore trail rig so the jeep will see easier trails soon and I want it to handle better on road also.
 
#6 ·
I forgot to mention that it's a long arm set up, 4 Inches is all the lower I can go up front because of the truss and still keep decent up travel.

We built an Xj this winter and he really likes the Rancho 9000's also.

Looks like I need to get the springs first and get the rear shock towers frenched in so I can measure for shocks.

If the budget will allow it I'm going to add air bumps also this winter before I'm done. I don't expect Cadillac ride but want to make sure it's a definite improvement.
 
#7 ·
Your stiff ride is NOT caused by your springs, period. Rides like you've described are nearly invariably caused by the shocks, followed by overinflated tires. Your 35" tires are kind of overinflated for offroading at 12 psi but that's not excessively overinflated. My guess is your Skyjacker shocks you described as Hydros are actually Nitros. Their Nitros are known for causing an excessively stiff ride like you have described.
 
#8 ·
The number one reason for changing the springs is to lower the ride height. I'm willing to sacrifice up travel for lower center of gravity and I can set the bump stops accordingly to maintain flex .

They were labeled as hydros when I bought them, I know they are cheap and don't help at all. The previous shocks were trashed and the budget didn't allow for much when my wife was a full time student so I did what I could.


The rear springs will also benefit regardless of being relocated to straight up and down as intended opposed to bowed like now and from all the research I've done outboarding the shocks makes a significant improvement in the ride.
 
#10 ·
If changing the springs( to lower it), relocating the rear upper buckets( to get them straight up and down) , outboarding the rear shocks and replacing them all with a good quality shock isn't going to improve ride then what do you suggest? The suspension arms are all free and other than one worn joint in good shape.
 
#11 ·
Shocks are the sole problem with the ride.

Take them off and run around the block, you'll see.

Limited rear uptravel may be a problem as well.

I use 5125 series 12" bilsteins to literally transform the tj short arms to cadillac ride quality with a rear outboard and extended front shock towers set up to prevent the coils from unseating. It does not matter one bit what brand spring you have. The heavier rate coils are simply more stable in the corners.

You can swap in the mushiest coils on the planet and still have harsh ride quality without a good shock and balanced travel.


 
#12 ·
I'll get some pictures uploaded when I get home. My rear has 6-6 1/2" up travel and the front is about 5".

I never have a coil come unseated because I have it set with limit straps.

The rear doesn't budge at all, you hit a dip in the road it just bounces off the ground. Only time it compresses much at all is dropping off a ledge or other straight fall.

I don't want to seem arguable but I know for certain it's not the rear being so soft it bottoms out causing the issue the rear is extremely stiff.

These shocks are definitely junk and I will agree to that, have you ever used those Bilsteins on a long arm before?
 
#21 ·
It barely moves when you jump on the back bumper, the only time it rides decent is with a trailer on the back or something fairly heavy in the receiver rack. Suspension travels fine with no springs or shocks in place.
sounds exactly like what mine was doing when I had some unknown shocks from PO I now have rancho 9000s and my ride is much better definitely look at getting new shocks first rock auto has the 9000s for about $82 each
 
#20 ·
Yes. I was wondering if he had one of the few that don't like to be inverted. I've yet to experience it as an issue, but I've heard of it so I'm throwing it out there .
 
#23 ·
Those shocks are mounted the "right side up" as is normal.

I wish I could drive your TJ to see how rough it actually rides, nothing is making sense in view of what appears to be Skyjacker Hydro shocks with are well known to be soft riding shocks.

What pressure do you run in your tires when you're on the street? As in exactly what psi is in them when you notice your TJ riding stiffly when on pavement?
 
#24 ·
I run 25 psi on the street Jerry, I'm also stumped as to the rough ride. The lift is circa 2002-2003 vintage and has been on the jeep for 80k miles or so. I've owned it for 30k of those miles and just now to a point where I'm able to address it.

A couple of other notes, the front sway bar is completely removed and it still is very drivable on road like that with minimal body roll. Rear sway bar is attached still.

Also I run all Chromoly heim joints for the control arms and Trac bars.

Its a lifted jeep and I definitely expect a different ride from that BUT when my buddies Xj and cj on leafs all around ride better there's definitely an issue at hand.

I'm all ears to suggestions, if the general consensus is to change shocks I have no issue starting with that. I would like to outboard the rear at the same time though since I have issues with the nuts on the crossmember for upper shock mounts and already have purchased shock towers.
 
#26 ·
I have the sway bar and just removed it a couple months ago, my jeep is a weekend warrior and only gets driven maybe 50 road miles a month and even less at highway speed.


The whole purpose of this rebuild is to make it more stable off road and street friendly so I'll most likely reinstall it with quick disconnects once I'm done.

It actually improved the ride quality after removing it though.
 
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