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TJ Rubicon D44s vs. Junk Yard Dana 60s

11K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  tkfx 
#1 ·
2005 Jeep Wrangler TJ Unlimited Rubicon

It is my current goal to run 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 17" Beadlocks from Allied Racing, however, like all Jeepers I will most likely want to go bigger eventually. Now as I say that I have no intentions of running anything larger than a 37" tire. Only problem is I said I wouldn't run larger than a 33" on my JKU and ended up getting 35" tires and saying the same thing. Few months later I was on the drawing board planning a one ton swap and 42s. After all of that I decided the JK really meant Joke Jeep and traded in for a LJ (Real Jeep).

To fully build my Dana 44s as I like them it will cost me about $5,703.74, that includes every possible strength modification available for the Dana 44 (JK gear conversion, ARB, 1350 Yokes, 35 Spline RCV, Alloy USA 30 Spline Hubs, RCV 30 Spline Outers, Alloy USA Ball Joints, Rock Slide Bomb Shell Kit, Artec Truss, and Artec Inner C Gusset). Only difference is the rear will be running Ten Factory 35 spline shafts.

Sure, that's a lot of money to put into a Dana 44 axle, hence my hesitation. I am very confident that this setup will handle 37" tires without any issues as they would be pretty well overbuilt.

My other option is having East Coast Gear Supply send over a set of their Dana 60s for $9,265. However, I could sell my Rubicon axles with Chromoly shafts for about $3,000 in my neck of the woods. This would offset the cost to only about $6,265. I would also try and wheel and deal with ECGS because I don't need the brackets as I am going full custom suspension with ORI Struts / Coilovers. That would hopefully lower the set another $400 making the actual difference only about $162 more over the Dana 44s.

Now if I opted for Dana 60s I would have room for a V8 swap in the future (already thinking about Banks Sidewinder so I don't think a V8 will take long...). Due to the larger pumpkin size of the Dana 60 I don't believe 37s would be a viable option anymore, forcing the move up to 40s. Now if I am correct with my redneck math a Dana 44 on 37s would have equal ground clearance to a Dana 60 on 40s? Keep in mind we are talking Junk Yard Dana 60s and not $10,000 Fancy axles.

Either option I go with the Jeep will be outfitted with custom suspension, hydro assisted steering, and high line fenders (either Metalcloak or TNT).

I am currently stationed in Okinawa, Japan and this build will not take place until I come home on vacation in March 2016. At that date I am looking to spend around $15,000 with a total build budget of $35,000 over the next three years.

Now that you have read my book what do you think?
 
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#5 ·
Dude, you cant compare a TJ dana 44 to a Super Duty Dana 60. Ill make it simple. Bigger tubes, Bigger Cs, Stronger Balljoints, Stronger Knuckles, Bigger brakes, 35 spline inner and 30 outer. Everything about the SD60 is beef.

As for your main post. Since you already know that you plan on going bigger eventually, just make the initial investment for D60s instead of buying tricked out Dana 44s which the D44s will still not be bulletproof no matter how much money you throw at them. I have not personally ran 37s on D60s but I have seen people wheel with that combo and its doable. 37s should be the minimum tire size for the D60s tho, or else clearance will become a bigger problem.

No point is spending so much on D44's if you're going to go bigger eventually. Because when you go to sell your 44s, you won't get full price, and you'll have to drop another couple grand for the 60s that you could have gotten from the start.

Good luck!
 
#6 ·
Alright so let's say I go the route of Dana 60s, it makes the most sense like you said. Now with that out of the way do you believe its best to jump up to a 40" or 42" tire. Since the axles are going to have chromoly shafts (35 inner and outer), trusses, inner c gussets, and lockers I figure 40" is safe while 42" might be a tad risky.
 
#7 ·
Id stay with 40s. Its not impossible to break a D60 with 40" tires. 42s on a TJ/LJ would be too big IMO, I can see it on a JK, but not on a TJ/LJ. Also don't forget to make sure your axles are wide enough to support the 40" tires and whatever coilover or air shock you want to fit in, too narrow of an axle and you will have to make compromises.
 
#8 ·
Thanks.

Do you think the ECGS axles are a good deal or would it be better to find a local used housing and an axle builder to swap in the locker and gears.

Also I am trying to avoid being super wide, what is the minimum width you would recommend? I was thinking of doing about 2" wider than stock.
 
#9 ·
Im running 65" axles with 4" backspacing rims (Stock 60.5") and I had to compromise turn radius to be able to fit coilovers on 37" tires, and I am still lightly rubbing my rear coilovers during full flex. Its hard to get a delicate balance. But 62" width will be very hard on 40s.

As for ECGS, I think they are a good company. Im considering their rear Dana 60 to upgrade my 44 in the future. I haven't really heard any complaints about them, only positive things.
 
#10 ·
Good to know, thanks. I think I will go ahead and keep the factory width of the Super Duty axles.

How do you like the Clayton suspension? I was thinking of either doing Clayton for ease of assembly and install or going full custom and getting Artec kits. Does the Clayton long arm kit cause your any limitations?
 
#11 ·
So far I like the clayton kit. I havent done any technical trails yet so cant give you feedback on that. No limitations except for maybe ground clearance. I have no binding.
 
#13 ·
If you plan on going 40s in the future you need to stretch the tj. Stock wheelbase on 40s is not recommended. As for the gas tank with a 60, it might rub because the dana 60 pinion is longer then a 44, thus causing the axle to move back some.
 
#14 ·
Have you looked into the junkyard route? I'm sure you could pick up some axles that will work for much cheaper since you are using all custom brackets. I would think even if you had to have an axle shop rebuild them it would be a cheaper route leaving more change for other mods? Either way thank you for your service and would love to see a build thred.
 
#15 ·
I should be fine with my current wheelbase on 40s as I am have a LJ, not TJ. My factory wheelbase is 103.4 inches. If I cannot fit the GenRight tank then I will most likely do a 3" rear stretch.

I plan to call ECGS after the holidays to see if they will reduce the price without brackets ordered. Once I have that quote I plan to call a few local shops to get prices on built housings to my specification.

The build will be starting March 2016 when I return home on leave. However, the part ordering will be starting in about six months to ensure everything is available when I get home. Phase one budget is around $15,000. Total budget over next three years is current foreseen to be just shy of $40,000.
 
#16 ·
Thats right, forgot you have an LJ. Well lucky for you because LJs can stretch their WB with the stock gas tank by just relocating the tank to the rear most crossmember. My build has pictures and details if you would like to do it.
 
#18 ·
I would use clayton again. Their brackets are thick and since they are weldon they have better geometry then the bolt on crap.
 
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