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Old 02-17-2014, 10:34 PM   #1
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Towing a tj

Need to save some money on my move from Oregon to Arizona. I want to rent the car trailer but if it's feasible and safe I rather tow it in its own wheels. What my question is : how can I wire the jeep to be towed with a tow bar behind a uhaul truck. And how do I set up the jeep to be towed... Recommendations on tow bars and how to make the jeep tow ready. I would check the owners manual but I bought mine used - no owners manual. Seems simple enough and I don't want to ruin my jeep trying to save a buck. Thanks in advanced !

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Old 02-17-2014, 10:45 PM   #2
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Flat towing works fine, which is better for the TJ than a tow dolly is. Things you must do to the TJ before driving off with the TJ behind you are 1) unlock the ignition switch so the TJ's steering can track the tow vehicle. 2) Shift the Transfer Case into Neutral. And 3) the transmission must be in gear, like 1st if it's a manual, or in Park (yes) if it's an automatic. Enjoy the trip, be safe, and try hard to avoid situations where you would have to back up the TJ. That's not something that is fun or easy to do.

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Old 02-17-2014, 11:09 PM   #3
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Flat towing works fine, which is better for the TJ than a tow dolly is. Things you must do to the TJ before driving off with the TJ behind you are 1) unlock the ignition switch so the TJ's steering can track the tow vehicle. 2) Shift the Transfer Case into Neutral. And 3) the transmission must be in gear, like 1st if it's a manual, or in Park (yes) if it's an automatic. Enjoy the trip, be safe, and try hard to avoid situations where you would have to back up the TJ. That's not something that is fun or easy to do.
Why first or park? Why not neutral?
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:14 PM   #4
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It prevents the transmission from being spun by parasitic force when it's not being properly lubricated. You can verify my directions in the owner's manual.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Flat towing works fine, which is better for the TJ than a tow dolly is. Things you must do to the TJ before driving off with the TJ behind you are 1) unlock the ignition switch so the TJ's steering can track the tow vehicle. 2) Shift the Transfer Case into Neutral. And 3) the transmission must be in gear, like 1st if it's a manual, or in Park (yes) if it's an automatic. Enjoy the trip, be safe, and try hard to avoid situations where you would have to back up the TJ. That's not something that is fun or easy to do.
I'm glad I asked ... I would have never guessed to put it in park or transfer case in neutral!!
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:53 PM   #6
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If you're just doing this as a one time thing, the easiest way to do the lights is just buy a cheap set of magnetic ones...not 100% sure, but I believe Harbor Freight has some. Prople that regularly tow them usually either use a diode system and tie in to the existing lights, or install another lamp holder in each existing tail light housing and run new wire to the front that is completely separate from the Jeep wiring.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:30 AM   #7
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I've got my rig set up with a Ready Brute tow bar and magnetic lights on the rear bumper. Its been good enough for several cross country trips.

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Old 02-18-2014, 06:37 AM   #8
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Read the Owner's Manual for flat towing your Jeep. I flat tow my Jeep behind our motor home and we've never had a problem. My tow bar set-up cost better than $1,500.00 just for the tow bar, another couple of hundred for the base plate for your Jeep, and in most states you'll need an auxiliary breaking system (I use the Stay-IN-Play Duo) which cost another 750.00. I am into my tow system(s) at least $2,500.00.

The Owner's manual says to NOT tow on a tow dolly for my 2005 TJ.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
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If you're just doing this as a one time thing, the easiest way to do the lights is just buy a cheap set of magnetic ones...not 100% sure, but I believe Harbor Freight has some.
i bought the harbor freight lights and have used them several times. they are cheap & get the job done. the magnets on them suck though. i ended up using a 2x4 & strapping the lights to that. i've flat towed my jeep as far as Myrtle Beach using those lights, lol.

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Read the Owner's Manual for flat towing your Jeep.
john, i don't think the OP has his owner's manual.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:33 AM   #10
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As mentioned above, the initial cost to set up a vehicle to tow 4-down can get up there if done right....auxiliary brake system and brake away. I know in CA that towing anything over 1500 pounds requires auxiliary brakes, and that it's a state by state thing. The other thing to consider is tow bar mounting. A stock Jeep bumper is not up to being an attachment point, and if a base plate isn't used, the tow bar should be tied into the frame. We tow ours all over the place, but it cost me about $1500 to set it up with the Ready Brute and lights etc. You can do it cheaper, by using a fixed tow bar, but you still have brakes to consider.
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:30 PM   #11
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I had a customer tow bar built by a friend, for $150. I pulled a trailer wiring from the front of the tow bar to the rear of the Jeep (under and secluded). I built a bar with my trailer lights and welded to an extra hitch, so when I get ready to pull it, I put my trailer lights set up in the hitch receiver, plug the front end of the wire in the trailer light plug on the tow vehicle, set the tranny and transfer case as Jerry described above, and take off.
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:10 PM   #12
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The original owner of my 98 sport installed full size warn manual hubs on all four corners so for me towing is unlock all four hubs and put TC in 4H and 5spd in gear and only the wheels spin all axles diffys and gearboxes locked to stationary engine and have no rotation on towing
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Old 02-18-2014, 03:11 PM   #13
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Just know that your front end setup should be in good shape to assure it tracks down the road. Your counting on it being a solid "follower" so if your toe is out, as an example, and it will want to sway back and forth going down the road. Good front end alignment and solid components makes it much safer and easier outing.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:56 PM   #14
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Yup, good points about the safety brakes, most states require them. if you don't and you get into an accident it might be bad news.
I used a blue ox universal hitch brake and it worked well.

Although mine tracked wonderfully, by the time I got across country I had front diff issues. Might have been bad luck/coincidence who knows.
It's at the shop now getting looked at.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:07 PM   #15
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I use a smittybilt bumper and their towbar and magnetic lights. Do it to take 2 vehicles across state and save gas often. Tow it with an 09 ram. T case neutral. Tranny in gear and steering unlocked (got to leave key in) on my 2000 not sure about others but imagine it's the same. My entire set up probably costs around 400 bucks for bumper bar and lights.

Smittybilt 76721 SRC Front Bumper by Smittybilt http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JKQDQ6/..._Kacbtb1D0FFED

Smittybilt 87450 2" Ball Adjustable Tow Bar Kit - 5000 lbs. Rating by Smittybilt http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K298TS/..._wbcbtb0R8RJ6T

Curt Manufacturing 53204 Auxiliary Magnetic Towing Lights with 4-Way Flat Plug in Storage Case by Curt http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GN3HAU/..._Eecbtb18G3WFF

My set up. Lights can be found cheaper. And I have found them for 15 bucks. Mine are the ones in link and I can vouch they are great quality. But costly.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:32 PM   #16
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I made a my own mounting bracket out of a piece of heavy ankle iron, added some gussets, mounted it under the bumper using the factory bumper holes using grade 8 bolts, added one in the center with a nut welded on the inside of the bumper. Found a 700-800.00 nice tow bar on craigslist for 200.00 with the safety cables. Throw in 20.00 set of harbor freight magnetic lights wha law... All plugs into my motorhome and have towed with no issues at all.
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I made a my own mounting bracket out of a piece of heavy ankle iron, added some gussets, mounted it under the bumper using the factory bumper holes using grade 8 bolts, added one in the center with a nut welded on the inside of the bumper. Found a 700-800.00 nice tow bar on craigslist for 200.00 with the safety cables. Throw in 20.00 set of harbor freight magnetic lights wha law... All plugs into my motorhome and have towed with no issues at all.
Got any pics ?
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:09 AM   #18
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We manufacture tow brackets for jeeps with D ring tabs on the bumper. They bolt directly to your Blackhawk, blue Ox and other popular tow bars, and pin directly on the d ring tabs. Hook up and go
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:40 AM   #19
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We manufacture tow brackets for jeeps with D ring tabs on the bumper. They bolt directly to your Blackhawk, blue Ox and other popular tow bars, and pin directly on the d ring tabs. Hook up and go
Where can I buy your stuff?
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:46 AM   #20
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Check the state laws on towing loads, each state is different see link below I towed my TJ and it was just under 5000lbs in TX.

State Towing Laws for RVs

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Old 02-19-2014, 01:01 AM   #21
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Where can I buy your stuff?
Give us a call, m-f, 8-5, at 877-795-jeep
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:50 PM   #22
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Got any pics ?
If you have access to a tools the angle iron was like $12.00 then my labor. Not sure how well you can see these. Again, cheap and easy if you have basic tools. If you have a bumper with built in d-rings, I'd go with the add on's shown on the post if there not that costly. $50-70 or less for the pair?

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Old 02-19-2014, 09:38 PM   #23
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If you have access to a tools the angle iron was like $12.00 then my labor. Not sure how well you can see these. Again, cheap and easy if you have basic tools. If you have a bumper with built in d-rings, I'd go with the add on's shown on the post if there not that costly. $50-70 or less for the pair?
ooh I got the tools but I don't have the garage to do it in. All my stuff is in storage and it would take me a good day to dig them out of that black hole I call my storage unit. I figured I'll buy the stuff I need, hopefully from craigslist and sell it as soon as i get home in AZ. But I will make a permanent brac ket once I get around to it just incase I need to get her towed for whatever reason.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:11 PM   #24
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There's a basic bracket set you can buy that bolts to the front face of the bumper. One left and one right off center. Each bracket is bolted on using 2 bolts. It's a pretty basic/common set. Not sure if it has a metal plate backing? If so, and it mounts inside the factory bumper, I'd think it would work for towing one time. Personally I don't think I'd run that style on a regular towing basis though. My 2 cents...
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
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There's a basic bracket set you can buy that bolts to the front face of the bumper. One left and one right off center. Each bracket is bolted on using 2 bolts. It's a pretty basic/common set. Not sure if it has a metal plate backing? If so, and it mounts inside the factory bumper, I'd think it would work for towing one time. Personally I don't think I'd run that style on a regular towing basis though. My 2 cents...
The factory bumper is 16 gauge sheet metal formed into a channel and is not strong enough to install tow points on without being tied into the frame.
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:02 AM   #26
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These are Blue Ox universal mounts on my old bumper.

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These mount to a flat surface using two bolts and a backing plate each. As Water Dog stated DO NOT use these on the stock TJ bumper.
Another thing to consider when setting up to flat tow is height differential. I pull my lifted TJ behind my motorhome which has a fairly low hitch height. IIRC the MH hitch is 16" (measuments are from ground to mount/hitch centers) and my TJ was 27.5" in the pic. Most tow bar manufacturers have a variance from level specification (VLS). On my Ready Brute Elite VLS is +-2". The tallest hitch adapter I could find was 10" rise so this put me at + 1.5", within spec.

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That was on 33s. When I upgraded to 35s I gained 1.5". Why not just 1"? Because GY Duratracs 33x12.5x15 actually measure 32" on an 8" rim. My 35" MT/RKs measure true 35". Now I was plus 3" and out of VLS. So I built a new bumper with custom mounts that were lowered 2". Back in spec.

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I also added two additional bumper mount that tie into the front crossmember.

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That's a total of 8 bolts into the frame. Probably over built but I'm a worry wart.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:30 AM   #27
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The problem we've seen, and the main reason we make the D ring adapter brackets, is that guys will flat tow their jeeps to a destination, go wheeling, and those cheesy bolt on brackets will be bent after a good day wheeling some rocks, and you can't reconnect the tow bar to them to go home. If you've bent a d ring mount, you probably need a trailer to get your jeep home anyway.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:49 AM   #28
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The problem we've seen, and the main reason we make the D ring adapter brackets, is that guys will flat tow their jeeps to a destination, go wheeling, and those cheesy bolt on brackets will be bent after a good day wheeling some rocks, and you can't reconnect the tow bar to them to go home. If you've bent a d ring mount, you probably need a trailer to get your jeep home anyway.
I am getting ready to purchase a front (and rear) bumper(s), and I have an interest in your D ring adapter brackets. How much "slop" is there in your brackets when they are pinned to a D ring? Do you have a photo of the product in use, or at least pinned to a D ring?
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:26 AM   #29
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The problem we've seen, and the main reason we make the D ring adapter brackets, is that guys will flat tow their jeeps to a destination, go wheeling, and those cheesy bolt on brackets will be bent after a good day wheeling some rocks, and you can't reconnect the tow bar to them to go home. If you've bent a d ring mount, you probably need a trailer to get your jeep home anyway.
I agree and they probably work great for most rigs, however my D rings are to high for the towbar to be in spec. The tabs on those bolt on mounts do stick out a mile, way farther than necessary. My fabbed mounts are as short as possible and 3/8 steel frenched into the bumper.

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I'm pretty confident if they got mangled a bit I could straighten them with the tools I carry in the MH good enough to get me home. Now that you mention it though, might not be a bad idea to make a spacer to put between the tabs while wheeling.
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:37 AM   #30
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I agree and they probably work great for most rigs, however my D rings are to high for the towbar to be in spec. The tabs on those bolt on mounts do stick out a mile, way farther than necessary. My fabbed mounts are as short as possible and 3/8 steel frenched into the bumper. I'm pretty confident if they got mangled a bit I could straighten them with the tools I carry in the MH good enough to get me home. Now that you mention it though, might not be a bad idea to make a spacer to put between the tabs while wheeling.
Most guys buy a 6-10" riser for the receiver end at camping world or on line. Works great.

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