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Old 04-16-2014, 07:58 PM   #1
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trail ready beadlocks

Looking at getting a set of trail ready beadlocks from a guy just wondering who runs or has run them. And how they performed on road because they will b on my dd

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Old 04-16-2014, 08:17 PM   #2
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They should be fine, just keep all the bolts properly torqued with regular checks. I've been running bead locks for 4+ years now without issue.

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Old 04-16-2014, 08:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
They should be fine, just keep all the bolts properly torqued with regular checks. I've been running bead locks for 4+ years now without issue.
Yea I've read were u said they were fine was just wondering about the brand I know u run Walker Evans was just wondering if anyone had any experience with trail ready
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:32 PM   #4
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Love mine. Big wide ring is great for wheeling and 100% USA made.

I don't drive my rig on the highway much anymore except wheeling trips, but they do require retorquing often like any beadlock.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:12 PM   #5
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Love mine. Big wide ring is great for wheeling and 100% USA made.

I don't drive my rig on the highway much anymore except wheeling trips, but they do require retorquing often like any beadlock.
Quick question what is ur maintenance schedule on them been trying to figure out what people do but can't really find anything as far as torque specs, how often, And the general procedure. I read were one guy said every other week to take them off let all the air out and repeat the install torque procedure. Sorry of this is a dumb question but I have never owned a set before and just want to make sure I maintain them correctly. Thanks
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:24 PM   #6
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I doubt many would continue running their bead lock wheels if it required they be broken down, let all the air out, retorque, etc. every other week. This is the internet so pay no attention to that level of idiot making that kind of recommendation.

I retorque my Walker Evan bead locks probably every 3 months and the torque setting they suggested was 18 ft-lbs. for each bolt. But that depends on the bolt size & what they're threaded into so I'd expect Trail Ready to include their recommendation in their instructions.

What I have discovered is that my bolts are all pretty much staying put at the 18 ft-lbs. from month to month, rarely do I find any that aren't where they should be.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:53 PM   #7
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I know people will flame me for this but, they are not DOT approved. People will now say, this guy doesn't know what he is talking about, I've ran them for years, bull,they are fine as long as you keep them tight , etc. If you screw up and don't keep them tight, especially on a d.d., they can come loose. Your insurance co. will not pay if you cause an accident due to these non DOT approved rims. I doubt your insurance co. will pay because the people on this forum is saying they will be fine. Flame away boys , tell this inexperienced guy how his insurance co. will pay out in case of an accident caused by beadlock failure.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:03 PM   #8
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There is no such thing as a DOT approved bead lock wheel. Neither does the DOT have any problem with bead lock wheels. The DOT issued a letter to that effect years ago. And if you think the DOT had approved any aftermarket wheels, you'd be wrong there too. The DOT has no wheel approval process. Despite the false claim some wheel manufacturers make that their wheels are DOT approved... they're not. Period.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:47 PM   #9
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I know people will flame me for this but, they are not DOT approved. People will now say, this guy doesn't know what he is talking about, I've ran them for years, bull,they are fine as long as you keep them tight , etc. If you screw up and don't keep them tight, especially on a d.d., they can come loose. Your insurance co. will not pay if you cause an accident due to these non DOT approved rims. I doubt your insurance co. will pay because the people on this forum is saying they will be fine. Flame away boys , tell this inexperienced guy how his insurance co. will pay out in case of an accident caused by beadlock failure.
I'm not worried about insurance situations I doubt they would pay regardless with all the aftermarket parts im sure they would find some way to get out of paying ie non factory suspension parts, oversize tires etc. And that's y I'm asking about maintenance. I have no problem torquing them once a month or whatever is required or recommended. Just want to know so I can stay on top of it. And I've done my fair share of research on this topic and everything I have read says that as Jerry said the dot doesn't approve any wheel if the wheel meets certain requirements then the manufacturer can stamp it with a dot number.beadlock manufacturers choose to not put a dot number for liability issues because some people don't maintain their stuff like they should. Even though most beadlocks meet and exceed these requirements
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:06 PM   #10
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I doubt many would continue running their bead lock wheels if it required they be broken down, let all the air out, retorque, etc. every other week. This is the internet so pay no attention to that level of idiot making that kind of recommendation.

I retorque my Walker Evan bead locks probably every 3 months and the torque setting they suggested was 18 ft-lbs. for each bolt. But that depends on the bolt size & what they're threaded into so I'd expect Trail Ready to include their recommendation in their instructions.

What I have discovered is that my bolts are all pretty much staying put at the 18 ft-lbs. from month to month, rarely do I find any that aren't where they should be.
That's what I was thinking seemed kind of excessive. And I'm buying the wheels second hand so I doubt they will have the install instructions. Ill try to check their website and c what it says. Is it recommended to use any kind of thread locker on the threads?
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:23 PM   #11
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Quick question what is ur maintenance schedule on them been trying to figure out what people do but can't really find anything as far as torque specs, how often, And the general procedure. I read were one guy said every other week to take them off let all the air out and repeat the install torque procedure. Sorry of this is a dumb question but I have never owned a set before and just want to make sure I maintain them correctly. Thanks
On a high year I drive my rig 2k miles, lately alot less but I do retorque them every ~1k miles. Probably unneccesary but I do find a few that are a bit loose sometimes. What I do is just jack the rig up, let the air out and go to town with the torque wrench. If it was a DD I would probably wait a little longer.

I forget the exact torque specs but pretty much when you mount them suck the ring down with some starter bolts (get a few different lengths) then start all the bolts. Work in a star pattern upping your torque value as you go up to 20. It's important you keep the ring evenly torqued as you do this. When they are all at 20 your good to go, do not use any thread locker. After the initial mounting is when they really get loose so I checked mine after 250 miles or so.

Also, you should probably get some new hardware. Are your wheels the insert or nut/bolt type? If they are the nut/bolt type I suggest you get the hardware from Trailready as the nuts are ground on the edge (not sure what the term is?) so they fit against the wheel, I used regular grade 8 flange nuts and they didn't fit all that well.

As far as the DOT thing it's not an issue, though I did find that my wheels straight from Trailready do have DOT stamped on the back of them. Not sure what that is supposed to mean.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:41 PM   #12
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Actually just looked at the pic on TR's website for their hardware and it appears they don't have the same ground edge I was talking about. Nevermind about that.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:45 PM   #13
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Actually just looked at the pic on TR's website for their hardware and it appears they don't have the same ground edge I was talking about. Nevermind about that.
Yea I went on there and looked and they look like standard nuts. Think I can get the grade 8 hardware cheaper at the local tractor supply. And I'm pretty sure I have the ones with the nuts and bolts no inserts. But idk yet there are supposed to b here either Tuesday or Wednesday.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:25 PM   #14
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The DOT doesnt actually approve Rim's. However they must be marked per DOT 571.120. I think you would have more of a problem running a 12.5 wide tire on a 8" rim as that is not an approved combination per DOT. We all do it with no issues. A local Tire chain in my area will not even mount that combination because of this, and the liabilities. I looked at my Steel Rock Crawler rims and they are stamped with the required info, who woulda thunk it !!
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:33 PM   #15
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There's a lot of stuff being made up on the fly about DOT requirements here...
Lol usually is. Gotta sift thru the crap to get to the truth.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:54 PM   #16
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Lol usually is. Gotta sift thru the crap to get to the truth.
Thats why I posted the DOT Reg Number, Like I said there is no DOT Approval just marking requirements..

Also the reason I dont post alot on Wrangler Forums. How ever I have gotten a lot of good info from Jerry's posts. Jerry can point you to the right way probably because he has been there done that or knows someone who has, kind of like a test bed
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:29 AM   #17
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Quick question can I use an inch pound torque wrench to torque them idk if I trust a foot pound wrench for that low of a measurement. trail ready says to start at 5 ft pounds then work up 5ft pounds at a time till I get to 20ft pounds. Was just wondering if I could use an inch pound and just convert it so it would be 60 inch pound then 120, 180, 240? Because the lowest the ft pound wrench I have goes is 10 ft pounds
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:38 AM   #18
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Just buy another torque wrench, you'll need it anyway. I run Trail Ready Beadlocks, grade 8 hardware with a flange nut, no insert. Once a month I'll take the wrench to them occasionally I'll have a loose bolt takes all of 5 minutes. TR has mounting instructions on website.

NOTE: make sure the valve stems are tight & rubber seal is square before you mount the tire!!!
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:41 AM   #19
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That inch-lb. torque wrench would be a much safer way of doing it than trying to use a 1/2" torque wrench but a 3/8" torque wrench would be ideal. That's what I use on my bead lock bolts. Harbor Freight has a surprisingly good quality 3/8" torque wrench for usually under $20, sometimes on sale for $9.99. Its accuracy is fine and plenty good enough for this job.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:51 AM   #20
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There is no such thing as a DOT approved bead lock wheel.
My rock monster wheels are stamped with a DOT code. They say DOT compliant on the website. I checked the bolts 1x in the last 2.5 years. They were fine. They have some half bolt lock cam thing on each bolt.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:57 AM   #21
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DOT Compliant and Dot Approved are two different things. The federal DOT has no bead lock wheel certification process and thus does not approve any bead lock wheels.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:18 AM   #22
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Just buy another torque wrench, you'll need it anyway. I run Trail Ready Beadlocks, grade 8 hardware with a flange nut, no insert. Once a month I'll take the wrench to them occasionally I'll have a loose bolt takes all of 5 minutes. TR has mounting instructions on website.

NOTE: make sure the valve stems are tight & rubber seal is square before you mount the tire!!!
I have both an inch pound and foot pound wrench just thinking that the inch pound may be more accurate.
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:21 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
That inch-lb. torque wrench would be a much safer way of doing it than trying to use a 1/2" torque wrench but a 3/8" torque wrench would be ideal. That's what I use on my bead lock bolts. Harbor Freight has a surprisingly good quality 3/8" torque wrench for usually under $20, sometimes on sale for $9.99. Its accuracy is fine and plenty good enough for this job.
So I would b fine to use an inch pound wrench?the inch pound one that I have is 3/8" while the foot pound one is 1/2". And just convert it over like I mentioned is that what u are saying u do Jerry
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:25 AM   #24
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Your 3/8 torque wrench doesn't have ft-lb. markings? In-lb. torque wrenches are typically 1/4".
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Old 04-23-2014, 11:43 AM   #25
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Your 3/8 torque wrench doesn't have ft-lb. markings? In-lb. torque wrenches are typically 1/4".
Pretty sure it is inch pound ill double check. Is the one u were talking from harbor freight 3/8 with ft pounds? If so I might just go pick one up if mine went work
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:02 PM   #26
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Yep my 3/8" HFT torque wrench has ft-lbs. on it. Kg too.
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Old 04-23-2014, 12:02 PM   #27
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My rock monster wheels are stamped with a DOT code. They say DOT compliant on the website.
I believe that has to do with the Hutchinson's being a multi-piece wheel.
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Old 04-23-2014, 03:00 PM   #28
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My 3/8"wrench is indeed inch pounds looks like ill b making a trip to harbor freight
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Old 04-23-2014, 04:59 PM   #29
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DOT Compliant and Dot Approved are two different things.
Is anything actually DOT approved? It seems to be almost everything is DOT compliant. What's the difference?
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:57 PM   #30
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