Transfer Case Drop effect on shifters? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:05 PM   #1
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Transfer Case Drop effect on shifters?

Couldn't find the answer to this after searching for a while. What is the effect of a 1" Transfer Case Drop on shifters for automatic transmission and transfer case on a 2005 LJ Rubicon? I know the linkage can be adjusted to some point for the transfer case shifter. Any such adjustment needed or possible for the auto trans shifter?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Chuck

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Old 08-25-2013, 09:40 PM   #2
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Can't speak to the auto trans, but they sell a drop bracket for the tcase linkage. The best option though for the tcase is the Novak shift cable.

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Old 08-25-2013, 10:54 PM   #3
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My 3" Teraflex suspension lift has a 1" t case drop. They make a t case bracket but do not recommend it for my lift. My t case functions flawless. I have a manual as well. Way more movement than an auto and flawless. I think that bracket is of more use for a body lift.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:50 AM   #4
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My buddy has a auto with a 2 inch tcase drop don't remember him having to do anything special I know with the five speed you need to take the shift boot off or get a different one or the best thing is a sye/cv
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:00 AM   #5
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Why drop it all you need is a DC shaft being you got a rubi ?
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:24 AM   #6
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Nothing needs to be done with the auto. I have a 2" BL
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:01 AM   #7
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Great - Thanks for all the feedback! This is a short term solution to see if it resolves the minor vibration issues.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:02 AM   #8
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Great - Thanks for all the feedback! This is a short term solution to see if it resolves the minor vibration issues.
You can just pull the shaft ride in 4 hi to see if the vibs stop
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:20 AM   #9
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The stock Z linkage doesn't do well once you alter the factory orientation between the transfer case and the tub--raising the tub 1" (body lift) or lowering the t-case 1" (t-case drop) results in the same thing--the linkage being pulled apart. If you do them both, you're about past the point of the stock linkage being able to work effectively and the stress on the bushings will be far greater, likely resulting in failed bushings after some use.

Novak's cable shifter completely removes the linkage's dependency on the tub and replaces the complex Z linkage with a simple cable between the shifter and the shifting mechanism on the transfer case. It doesn't matter where the t-case is relative to the tub once you have it installed. If you don't plan on anything other than sticking with the stock skid plate, you can make the stock linkage work just fine for you with a little adjusting of the main rod. But if you want a silky-smooth shifter (if you shift the t-case a lot on or off the road) then the Novak is the best option, bar none. That also sets you up for a high clearance skid plate in the future....at least partially.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:28 AM   #10
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If you stick with the stock skid plate, does the Novak work fine as well?
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:33 AM   #11
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If you stick with the stock skid plate, does the Novak work fine as well?
Yep, the Novak cable always works fine. Because you remove the linkage's dependency on the tub, it no longer matters where it's at in relation to the transfer case. Out of the craziness that is my Jeep, that cable shifter is still one of my favorite and most appreciated additions.

As for the auto trans shifter, you shouldn't notice any difference with a t-case drop or small body lift.
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:13 AM   #12
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I totally agree with Imped, the Novak is one of the best mods I ever put on my Jeep. And like he said, it doesn't matter what other lift or configuration modifications you may go to, the Novak just works.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:23 AM   #13
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Please, could I see some pictures of what you guys are talking about?
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:31 AM   #14
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All the Novak t-case shift cable info here is true.. I agree... it is the best single mod I have ever done to my jeep.
Also.. Auto trans is already cable shifted so no adjustments needed.

The Novak provides no more weird sounds/vibrations from a binding t-case linkage, no more popping out of 4LO, no more fighting the shifter in a panic trying to get it back in gear while stuck on a hill. Jeep should have built em with cables from the factory.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:35 AM   #15
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This is the Novak on my TJ.

Click image for larger version

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This is what Jeeps should have come with from the factory. I like it so much that I am installing one on my son's TJ tomorrow. For more detailed info click on my build in my sig.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:32 AM   #16
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:04 PM   #17
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Won't know until the weekend but will update.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:13 AM   #18
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Well, now I am re-thinking this whole TC drop and may just go for the Double Cardan Shaft upgrade. Recently bought this LJ Rubicon used with RE 3.5" lift. If I understand the rear geometry correctly, it also appears to have control arms swapped out as the Pinion gear is lined up parallel to the drive shaft - not the transfer case.

From what I have read on numerous posts, it seems this pinion angle setup, with single Cardan shaft can cause vibrations in the driveline.

With my current arrangement would I only need to replace the single with Double Cardan Shaft, forget the TC drop and should be good?

thanks for feedback
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:19 AM   #19
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Good idea. It doesn't make sense to spend money on losing belly clearance, especially at your wheelbase.

You already have a fixed yoke so all you need is a proper drive shaft and adjustable control arms to rotate the pinion up. The u-joint at the axle end of the shaft needs to be seeing 0 degrees so the pinion and drive shaft will be inline.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:34 AM   #20
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Good idea. It doesn't make sense to spend money on losing belly clearance, especially at your wheelbase.

You already have a fixed yoke so all you need is a proper drive shaft and adjustable control arms to rotate the pinion up. The u-joint at the axle end of the shaft needs to be seeing 0 degrees so the pinion and drive shaft will be inline.
That's what I thought - thanks! The pinion already seems to be rotated in line with the drive shaft so I think the control arms must have been previously modified.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:35 AM   #21
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Then it's merely coincidental or your eyes are playing tricks on you.

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