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Old 07-11-2008, 02:28 PM   #1
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Transfer case drop removal?

I bought my jeep with a four inch lift on it and upon buying I went ahead and had my mechanic put a SYE on it. I do not know why he did not remove the T-case drop after installing the SYE.

Well my question is can I remove the T-case drop without undoing everything I spent $700 on to have done?

The reason I wont to do this is because I can not shift into 4Low, will removing this drop fix that?

Here is a Pic of the drop


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Old 07-11-2008, 02:44 PM   #2
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take it back, tell him he isnt done yet, and what he needs to do to finish....

did you also have adjustable upper rear arms and a rear track bar bracket to work with the upper arms installed?

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Old 07-11-2008, 02:49 PM   #3
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will it mess up my drive line angle?
and will it actually fix my 4wd low binding problem?
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Old 07-11-2008, 02:59 PM   #4
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it sounds like you have to adjust your transfer case shifting linkage.
after removing the TC drop that must be done again.

bring your TJ back to the shop and tell them to remove the TJ drop and to adjust he shifting linkage.

i think they don´t really know what they´re doing. installing a SYE and CV driveshaft without removing the TC drop makes no sense IMO.


as "Vector6" said before, with an SYE you also need longer or adj. rear UCAs and a TB bracket or adj. TB to re-center the axle.

could you post some pics here from your rear CAs, teh end of the TC and your rear driveshaft?

BTW. how much lift does your TJ have...?
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Old 07-11-2008, 03:26 PM   #5
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yes its very easy.. as for the 4lo linkage,, it should fix it when you remove it as it will put it in stock level however you might still need to adjust it. Tcase drop removal is very simple also. Take off one of the big bolts on your tcase skid. You gotta go to the store and get 6 bolts like it (same thread, same size) but 1" shorter. Simply remove the bracket from the body that controls the 4 hi, lo n 2wd.. and then remove the extra bracket from that and connect it directly.. then loosen the 4 bolts in the middle of the tcase skid and then loosen the 6 bolts holding the tcase skid. Then using the jack support it and remove the 3 bolts from the one side (the jack should take care of the weight) lower it just a bit so you can remove the spacer and then lift it and put the shorter bolts back on (no need to torque them down yet).
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:44 PM   #6
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" rear CAs, teh end of the TC and your rear driveshaft?"
Do not really know what all these abreviations mean so I will post some pics of what I think You mean!

The LIft is a 4 inch suspension lift.









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Old 07-11-2008, 06:46 PM   #7
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Hold on I just went out to the Jeep and took some better shots HOpe they will help. Just waiting for them to upload
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:55 PM   #8
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Hope I got a shot of what yall were talking about!
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:47 PM   #9
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you have non-stock rear UCAs and LCAs.

when did you buy the SYE and CV driveshaft?
is the driveshaft used?
it looks rusty like it was in salt water for a few years...
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Old 07-11-2008, 09:53 PM   #10
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It was brand new in early december,Lots of surface rust, thats what it looks like after running it thru iowa\MA\CT\Northeast winters Damn Salt And $50 to wash the truck at the car wash.
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Old 07-11-2008, 09:57 PM   #11
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you also still have "fixed" upper control arms (uca's). You're going to need to spend a little more money.

With the SYE and new d-shaft you need the adjustable UCA's to dial in the pinion angle correctly.
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:25 PM   #12
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Not sure those are fixed uppers. I think they spin inside themselves.. either teraflex or superflex?
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Old 07-11-2008, 10:47 PM   #13
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Sorry but you guys have lost me
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:38 PM   #14
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ok all you gotta do is remove the tcase drop since you have a SYE setup done. In Doing so that should take care of your Tcase not going into low issue. if it doesnt the linkage just needs to be adjusted. now if you remove your Transfer case drop and you get vibrations coming form the back what you need to do is setup up your rear axle driveline angle. you can do that with rear adjustable upper control arms. it looks like you already have some kind of after marker rear upper control arms that may be adjustable. can you get better pics of the rear upper control arms?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:44 PM   #15
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I will see if I can take some pics tomorrow! Thanks! I can understand that. If I remove the drop and get vibrations I can fix it, easily? $
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:49 PM   #16
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you should be able to fixit it easily as long as those rear upper control arms are adjustable. i doubt your gonna get vibes your should be a ok once the tcase drop is history. are you a chiropractor?
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:58 PM   #17
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No, I met my wife in chiropractic school though and she is still working on it! I created this sig for a couple of accounts at the time and have kind of just stuck with it! I guess you could call me a poser...LOL. I was thinking about that today just dont know if I could change it.
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:06 AM   #18
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hahaha i dont care, I just have a friend who is a chiro and he has that in a couple usernames. you poser haha


hey check out 4x4xplor.com and check out his mods and write up section. lots of detailed info on how your jeep works.
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:47 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiro2736 View Post





Hope I got a shot of what yall were talking about!
The lower control arms look like the rough country control arms.

Look at that shift linkage bend.. i imagine you have hell of a time shifting 2 to 4 wd.. This is the reason why you do need a drop bracket.. Anyhow go to the store, get 6 new shorter bolts and remove that tcase drop (dont mess with the bracket on the body since you dont have a drop bracket). It should solve your shifting problems.

His upper control arms look adjustable to me. Otherwise it would be one solid pipe, not 2 joined in the middle.
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:55 AM   #20
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Yes, it looks adjustable to me!

How easy is it to remove the tcase drop what all is involved, what size bolts do I need?
Do you think an idiot like me with few skills could do it on his own?
Why does it matter if the upper control arm is adjustable or not? Will I need to adjust it?
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiro2736 View Post
Yes, it looks adjustable to me!How easy is it to remove the tcase drop what all is involved, what size bolts do I need?
Do you think an idiot like me with few skills could do it on his own?
Why does it matter if the upper control arm is adjustable or not will I need to adjust it?
You might need to adjust it. Because when you remove the tcase drop kit, it will go up so you might get vibes but who knows how the control arms were adjusted in the first place.


Read through this man. Its very easy. Before you buy the bolts, i would try to see if the ones you have now will work. They might however if not then get some new shorter ones.
The link is to install tcase drop.. you want to remove it..
http://www.4x4xplor.com/t-casedrop.html
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:14 PM   #22
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Well tonight I removed the T-case drop Thanks to y'all guys! i know 4 out of 6 f the screws (pick up the other 2 tomorrow)



4hi shifts perfect now I can at least get past N for 4low but it grinds like hell and I am scared to screw it up got it in to 4low but it drops out and grinds every time I start to drive. Could this be the problem do I need to adjust it? If so how? I unscrewed the screw but I could not slide it up or down! Please help!



ALSO how can I tell If my driveline is right still?

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Old 07-14-2008, 10:21 PM   #23
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the angle looks right to me. do you have any driveline vibes? if not, leave it like it is.

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Old 07-14-2008, 10:34 PM   #24
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To adjust it, put it in 2 HI (all the way forward) loosen this rusty bolt. Go inside and try to shift to 4 hi (jeep off) If it shifts, put some wd 40 on the bolt.. you want it to slide across the shaft. Once that happens, put it all the way forward and go underneath and tighten the bolt. Then put the tranny in neutral and try to shift around.. 2, 4 hi, N 4 lo.. it should go perfectly.. if it doesnt repeat again.

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Old 07-14-2008, 10:48 PM   #25
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I did that and the damn thing will not slide at all. I mean it will not move a muscle. I even tried sliding both hands up their and holding one end and pushing with the other, even then it would not budge not even a little, all I got was dirty as hell. I will try the WD40 tomorrow, but I dont think its going to work.
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:51 PM   #26
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you can hit the bolt with a small hammer or a pair of pliers.. you gotta loosen it a lot though.
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:56 PM   #27
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I will try that and maybe a little bit of sand paper to take the deposits off of it. Hopefully that will work thanks for the Suggestions.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:04 PM   #28
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np man, keep us updated (do not hit the rod though.. only the bolt and the little box the bolt is connected to..)

YOu can also get a pair of vice grip and grab the rod about in the middle (where it gets thicker) and try to turn it here and there just a bit so you can break the rust spot.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:08 PM   #29
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I took the bolt all the way off no problem! It is the rod that will not move?
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:02 AM   #30
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The rod shouldnt move, what should move is that bracket on the rod It should slide on the rod.

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