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Old 05-10-2010, 04:00 PM   #1
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Transfer Case Lowering

I am going to install the OME suspension and they want to sell me the lowering kit for $80. I have read that this can be done if needed with some longer bolts of the right grade and washers for a couple of bucks. Does anyone have any input for this?

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Old 05-10-2010, 04:19 PM   #2
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Take one of your t-case bolts out & run down to your hardware store and buy equivilent bolts that are 1" longer. If you have an older TJ, those are SAE bolts and they need to be Grade 5 or Grade 8 to be strong enough. If you have a newer TJ, the bolt will be a metric size and you will need each bolt to be rated 10.9 or 12.9 for strength.

To drop the t-case down, just stack washers around all six bolts between the frame & skid plate. Do one side at a time after loosening the other side, support the skid plate with a floor jack. Depending on the size lift, 1/2" to 1" of t-case drop should be enough. Depending on your model year, you may need slightly more than 1/2" to 1" worth of washers around each bolt to actually achieve 1/2" to 1" worth of drop due to an indentation that may exist that the first couple washers will sit in.

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Old 05-10-2010, 04:49 PM   #3
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Thanks Jerry. That sounds like a lot of washers to stack in there. My jeep is a 1999. It almost sounds more durable going with the kit that comes with the OME but then again that is why I am purplexed. Thanks for your help.
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Old 05-10-2010, 05:47 PM   #4
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The washers work fine, countless TJs are running with washers stacked around the bolts to serve as spacers. I did for several years, it works fine and holds up fine. Just make sure you are buying hardened bolts & washers, there is no reason to fear this less expensive yet entirely functional/reliable way of doing it.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:47 PM   #5
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I will go down and get the proper washers and bolts to make this modification per your instructions. I like the thought of saving $75 to do this. Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:58 PM   #6
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^^^ you'll spend more than $5 on grade eight bolts and washers. Expect about $2 a bolt for grade 8. But yes...alot cheaper and works great.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:28 PM   #7
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Super-short SYE and a new driveshaft. Do it once, do it right.

The idea of lifting your vehicle to lower your skidplate and reduce breakover makes no sense whatsoever. I know, because I did it once and it was stupid. Never did get the driveline angle vibe-free.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:38 PM   #8
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Super-short SYE ...
A super-short SYE isn't needed by 99% of those with lifted Jeeps, a standard length SYE works just as well for the majority of offroaders. You probably need 6" of lift before I'd even consider the need for one of those.

Not to mention that a super-short SYE kit like from JB Conversions forces you to loose the speedometer gear which then means you have to buy an electronic speedometer calibrator afterwards. I've had lifts to 5.5" and I've yet to feel that a super-short SYE would have any benefit that would be needed or useful. For most of us, we are better served by a standard length SYE kit.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:41 PM   #9
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Super-short SYE and a new driveshaft. Do it once, do it right.

The idea of lifting your vehicle to lower your skidplate and reduce breakover makes no sense whatsoever. I know, because I did it once and it was stupid. Never did get the driveline angle vibe-free.
While you are correct, some people save up after the lift for the SYE kit and CV drive shaft. At least that's what I'm going to do. I don't want to buy everything at once and not have enough money to cover any emergency expenses. No offense though.
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:47 PM   #10
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One thing to keep in mind is that the optimal driveshaft's length is different for a stock-height vs. a lifted Jeep. I would save a little longer so you aren't running a shorter driveshaft length that is more appropriate for a stock height after you lift it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:47 PM   #11
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I'm bringing this back from the dead with a few questions:

Is there any way to determine exactly the size lift installed on a 1999 TJ? I bought this one, and it looks like a 4" suspension life and a 2" body lift. I don't know for sure, and I want to drop my T-case right (Previous owner never dropped it to accommodate for the lift).

How can I judge whether or not a linkage needs to be replaced based on the lift? I am having 4wd problems, and I am covering all of my bases.

Thanks in advance! Also, I will probably be using some thick solid aluminum for my spacers. Recently acquired some 1/4" extruded lengths of the stuff. And it's tank grade aluminum!
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:52 PM   #12
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While you are correct, some people save up after the lift for the SYE kit and CV drive shaft. At least that's what I'm going to do. I don't want to buy everything at once and not have enough money to cover any emergency expenses. No offense though.
Amen, I am in that boat too. After already spending around $2k on the lift and tires, I am tired of being berated for using a t-case drop. I would LOVE to have an SYE, I KNOW it is better. Doesn't mean i can financially do so.

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