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Old 10-30-2011, 08:07 PM   #1
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Transmission Flush And Filter

Home Transmission Flush

I read this thread a while back about driveway transmission flushes. Here it is:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-a...ush-99115.html

I wanted to replace the filter and get all the fluid out of the torque converter. So I thought I would give it a try. There were some questions I had, but I was sure I would figure it out.

I worked at a Jiffy Lube for a couple years before college back in the 90s. I replaced many tranny filters. I also performed flushes with the T-Tech machine.

I don't have the 42RLE tranny like in the article. I have the 32RH. My Jeep is a 2001 Wrangler Sport I6 auto with 70,000 miles. My fluid didn't smell burnt, but it was brownish.

I am not an expert. This is just what I did.

Supplies

From Home Depot
- 5 ft 3/8" ID flexible clear plastic tube
- 5 gal Homer bucket

From Napa
- 12 quarts (1 case) Valvoline ATF+4 Transmission Fluid
- Transmission Filter & Gasket
- Wide drain pan

I called all the major automotive parts stores and no one was interested in case prices. So I paid full price. Actually there was a sale so each quart cost $5 something. My Chilton manual says the 32RH takes 8.55 quarts of ATF+4.

Removing Pan

I cleaned the exterior of the pan and tranny of any mud or dirt. Just to avoid getting any in the tranny.

Since the back 1/3 of the pan is covered by the transfer case skid I decided I would drain the fluid from the front. I loosened the front bolts almost all the way out. Then loosened all other bolts working my way backwards down each side simultaneously. I kept the rear bolts tight. It ensures the front side of the pan separates from the tranny and the fluid comes out the front. I gently pried the front of the pan since it was still sticking to the tranny.

Click image for larger version

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Once the fluid is done draining I removed the pan and filter. Without a drain plug the pan still has fluid in it. Wiped off the mating surface and remove any stuck gasket. I used a gasket scraper. Then wiped a rag with brake cleaner to finish cleaning the surface. Installed the new filter. Apparently, there are torque specs for the filter bolts. I had no idea at the time.

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Clean the pan

I cleaned the pan with brake cleaner. Removed the magnet and cleaned it as well. Then washed in hot soapy water in the kitchen sink. Quickly dried and cleaned again with brake cleaner to remove any moisture quickly. Put the magnet back in and matched up the correct gasket. My kit came with 2. Put the bolts through the pan holes and screwed into gasket. The gasket holes are small enough to hold the bolts. It's important not to screw the bolts in the gasket all the way. It would make it difficult to screw the bolts into the tranny because all the other bolts are fully extended. I put them in so the bolts are sticking out of the gasket a couple threads (even though the picture shows them screwed in fully).

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Attach Pan

I put the pan up to the tranny and screwed in the bolts. Do not over tighten them! It may mess up the gasket or worse snap a head off. I've done that before. I lost 2.5 quarts of fluid after dropping the pan. I lost some more in spillage. So I put 3.5 quarts in. Now the pan is 1 quart over full. I did not know if another quart would overflow the dipstick tube, so I didn't add anymore, though I probably could have.

Get Ready

The passenger side tranny cooler hose that attaches to the radiator is the one I want. I disconnected from tranny and let hang. Attached the 3/8" plastic tubing to the radiator and secured inside bucket.

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I chose a 5 gal bucket because they're cheap and I can easily see the fluid level through the plastic. I took an empty and clean milk gallon and added one full of water at a time to the bucket. I marked the level with a permanent marker on the side. Then estimated each section into quarters for quart graduations! I got the remaining 9 bottles of ATF and removed the caps. I kept them near the tranny dip stick tube for easy access.

Flush

I applied emergency break, put in neutral, then started. The old fluid started coming out the hose and into the bucket.

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I started adding fluid down the dip stick tube as fast as possible. Unfortunately I couldn't keep up. It was too quick. I hear park is slower, I'll do that next time. I had to shut the car off about 3/4 the way through to get caught up. You don't want to run it dry. I did notice a gap in the fluid coming out of the tube a few times. That was probably because I couldn't keep up.

So I went through 11 quarts total. I left the 12 quart in case I needed to add any.

Finish

I reconnected the tranny cooler line. Started vehicle and shifted through the gears a few times. Put in neutral and checked fluid level. It was good. After driving around a day or two I checked the level again when it was hot. I had to add a little. That's it!

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:53 AM   #2
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Hey this is a very handy thread just wanted to say thanks for the write up! Guess what I'll be doing this weekend lol

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Old 03-05-2012, 11:04 AM   #3
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Very nice write up!! Also, you can only use Neutral to pump the ATF out with a 32RH transmission. Only with the newer 42RLE does the ATF pump work in both Park and Neutral.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:16 AM   #4
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Very nice write up!! Also, you can only use Neutral to pump the ATF out with a 32RH transmission. Only with the newer 42RLE does the ATF pump work in both Park and Neutral.
Also nice to know!

This thread has been floating around here for a while with no posts so had to give him some credit since I'm doing the flush here soon anyway (way past due)
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:35 AM   #5
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Great post... Is your procedures applicable to my 97 TJ?
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:03 PM   #6
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Great post... Is your procedures applicable to my 97 TJ?
Yes, you have the same exact transmission the OP has. Providing you have an automatic that is.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #7
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My bad...I have a 5 speed manual transmission.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:59 PM   #8
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My bad...I have a 5 speed manual transmission.
Manual transmissions are just a simple drain and fill operation, just like changing the oil in the engine. They don't need flushing since they have all their gear lube inside the transmission. An automatic requires flushing to get all the ATF out since it pumps the ATF through the torque converter and tranny cooler inside the radiator housing. Only about half of the total ATF in an automatic transmission is actually inside the transmission at any one time.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:01 PM   #9
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Awesome...thanks!
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:02 PM   #10
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Hey is the 3/8 tubing the outside or inside diameter
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Hey is the 3/8 tubing the outside or inside diameter
Inside diameter.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:03 PM   #12
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Inside diameter.
Awesome thanks and one more question I bought 10 bottles of ATF 4 and have the same transmission am I going to be good with that you said you got twelve and had one left how did that work when it holds 8.55? And the autozone guy said it holds 6.7...
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:31 AM   #13
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Awesome thanks and one more question I bought 10 bottles of ATF 4 and have the same transmission am I going to be good with that you said you got twelve and had one left how did that work when it holds 8.55? And the autozone guy said it holds 6.7...
It's been a while so bear with me....

My manual says 8.55 quarts. I have confirmed that number from other sources.

If I didn't drop the pan I would have flushed 9 to 9.5 quarts, just to be thorough.

Since I did drop the pan I had to refill it before the flush. I estimated 2.5 quarts, since that's what I captured when I dropped the pan. I then flushed 8.5 quarts for a total of 11 quarts. This left me 1 quart of the 12 quart case.

I imagine I could have included the 2.5 quarts (to refill the pan) as part of the flush, then only flushing 6 quarts for a total of 8.5 quarts. Since I don't plan on doing this often I thought I would be thorough. But it very well could be perceived as a waste.

So 10 quarts will be fine.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #14
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It's been a while so bear with me....

My manual says 8.55 quarts. I have confirmed that number from other sources.

If I didn't drop the pan I would have flushed 9 to 9.5 quarts, just to be thorough.

Since I did drop the pan I had to refill it before the flush. I estimated 2.5 quarts, since that's what I captured when I dropped the pan. I then flushed 8.5 quarts for a total of 11 quarts. This left me 1 quart of the 12 quart case.

I imagine I could have included the 2.5 quarts (to refill the pan) as part of the flush, then only flushing 6 quarts for a total of 8.5 quarts. Since I don't plan on doing this often I thought I would be thorough. But it very well could be perceived as a waste.

So 10 quarts will be fine.
Ok thanks a bunch cleared that right up!
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:12 PM   #15
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so you can get all the bolts for the pan off without dropping the t-case skid plate?
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:16 PM   #16
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so you can get all the bolts for the pan off without dropping the t-case skid plate?
Yep it would be easier with it off but doesn't have to be
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:24 PM   #17
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Yep it would be easier with it off but doesn't have to be
cool. do you know if i can also drop the valve body with the skid on there? I have to change out the TCC solenoid.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:28 PM   #18
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cool. do you know if i can also drop the valve body with the skid on there? I have to change out the TCC solenoid.
Skid can stay
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:38 PM   #19
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cool. do you know if i can also drop the valve body with the skid on there? I have to change out the TCC solenoid.
Where exactly is the TCC? Ive got to test mine. Think thats what is wrong with mine. PO743 code? Ive tried to find diagrams for it but haven't had any luck
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:31 PM   #20
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Where exactly is the TCC? Ive got to test mine. Think thats what is wrong with mine. PO743 code? Ive tried to find diagrams for it but haven't had any luck
Maybe this will help: Auto Trans TCC Shudder, FIXED!!! - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:56 PM   #21
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sweet i will save this!
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:34 PM   #22
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Hmm. Mine never really did"the shutter". It just threw the PO743 code, torque converter circuit tester or something like that. Then my tranny started acting up, slipping bad and making a grinding/ scratchy noise. I checked the fluid and its pretty dirty. I was planning on flushing the trans tomorrow , and was going to test that solenoid while I was doing it. Trying to stay cheap rather than spending a grand or two at a transmission shop. Any help would greatly be appreciated!
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:37 PM   #23
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Ok, so I Whateve my filter today. Followed the same steps as mentioned earlier. went to start flushing the fluid, like mentioned on previous posts, using same steps. Attached hose to radiator started engine, put in neutral, nothing. It barely dripped. Tried going through gears, let it idle to build pressure, nothing! lol. Please help!! Im ready to get back in my jeep!
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Old 03-31-2012, 02:38 PM   #24
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Ok, so I Whateve my filter today. Followed the same steps as mentioned earlier. went to start flushing the fluid, like mentioned on previous posts, using same steps. Attached hose to radiator started engine, put in neutral, nothing. It barely dripped. Tried going through gears, let it idle to build pressure, nothing! lol. Please help!! Im ready to get back in my jeep!
Changed my filter* dang smart phone!
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:18 AM   #25
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Where exactly is the TCC? Ive got to test mine. Think thats what is wrong with mine. PO743 code? Ive tried to find diagrams for it but haven't had any luck
you have to drop the valve body to get to it. luckily i checked the wires going into my tranny and they were broken so i just need a new plug.
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:13 PM   #26
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Great thread!!! I was having tranny problems, mainly my torque converter. I was already looking to buy a new tranny because I thought it was toast. I seen this thread, gave it a shot, and volla, works like a new tranny again! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

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Old 02-26-2013, 02:26 PM   #27
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Ok, I'm missing something. Why do you drain the tranny pan and change the filter first? I'd think you'd want to flush everything out, then drop the pan, and change the filter.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:56 AM   #28
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gonna give it a shot
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:15 AM   #29
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I'm going to resurrect this Lazarus Thread. It is a good one. I'm going to change out my 32RH fluid because it looks like it was changed recently and I have no idea what the PO replaced it with. I bought a new pan with the drain plug from Summitracing to make future maintenance easier. I read this thread and am wondering if a drain and fill wouldn't accomplish the same thing. Japanese manufacturers (at least on my Accord) suggest the drain and fill method and strongly discourages a flush. I realize this isn't an actual flush like a dealer or quick lube would do. I plan on dropping the pan and drain the fluid, change the filter, gasket and install new pan. Refill pan and run the transmission a few miles. Park it then remove drain plug and drain fluid then refill with new fluid. If I did this three times almost all of the fluid should be changed. Any reason why this wouldn't work. I'm also wondering if the tube returning the fluid into the radiator is coming directly from the torque converter or the pan. Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:51 PM   #30
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I would recommend just draining, replacing the filter and pan, running fluid through it with the line at the radiator disconnected and the vehicle running in neutral. I ran around 4 quarts or so through (while I continually poured) and then shut it down. I reconnected the line and and proceeded to fill it until I had fluid at the proper level. I've done this on both a 32rh and a 42rle.

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