Jerry... gotta thanks you again for all the help with my 32rh from about a year ago. The used trans I put in has been great and I even rebuilt the water logged one at work and sold it.... Awesomely simlple transmission to work on... Fun project.
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sport
I6 4.0 Automatic
168,000 miles upon purchase
4" Rough Country Suspension Lift
1-2"? Body Lift
35x12.5x15 Pro Comp Tires
The rumors are rampant that changing the ATF and fluid can somehow wreck a transmission by letting chunks of stuff break loose. In my own opinion, that's not all that likely in most cases. With only 118k miles, I doubt changing the ATF and filter will do anything except possibly help. If it doesn't help, odds are its bands need adjusting which is a minor inexpensive thing to have done so long as you have the work done by a small independent honest transmission shop. I'd never trust a chain transmission repair shop like Aamco to do anything but overcharge me and claim the transmission has problems it really doesn't have. Chain shops have quotas to make and not all are scrupulously honest in how they make their quotas which are often quite high.
And rday78, you are certainly welcome. Nice that you figured out how to rebuild yours and actually sell it!
__________________ When you have a choice, buy American.
The rumors are rampant that changing the ATF and fluid can somehow wreck a transmission by letting chunks of stuff break loose. In my own opinion, that's not all that likely in most cases.
I agree. I also suspect that this rumor originated from a Midas shop as a way of selling more product. Be sure you use ATF+4 and a quality filter (not fram! - go with OEM kit if at all possible) and let it sit overnight before dropping the pan to catch as much fluid as possible.
It is very possible that it was serviced at some point, and the wrong fluid installed. If valve body problems become apparant after the fluid/filter change, it was on life support LONG before you noodled with it, so proceed with confidence.
The 32RH is a reworked, older Chrysler 904 transmission with an electronic lock-up assembly; it was also known as a TorqueFlight 904, 909 and 30RH prior to the change to computer controlled LU assy.
3 - number of speeds
2 - torque handling (2-300 ft-lbs)
R - rear wheel drive
H - hydraulicly controlled .
It is very possible the fluid is burnt if the lockup unit is not functioning properly. The electronic lockup lowers operating temps and longevity in this unit, which was badly needed. If the fluid looks/smells burnt, head for a dealership or a good, local independent shop for help.
Jerry is 100% correct! New fluid cannot make it worse! Why eat, you'll just get hungry again?
As a transmission ages bands and clutches wear slightly, just like brakes, the particles sluffed off are caught in the filter (with brakes the particles blow away where we can breathe them.)
At the same time all the little rubber seals wear a little and get brittle, leaking and not totally doing their job. Pressures drop, it slips more.
New fluid AND A NEW FILTER gets rid of the dirt particles, and the new fluid has a conditioner that softens the seals -- ALL GOOD!
Don't get talked into the quick "suck it out and refill" schemes - MAKE SURE THEY REPLACE THE FILTER.
Make sure to only use ATF+4 transmission fluid. No Mercon or generic ATFs will work properly in your Sahara's 32RH automatic transmission.
I just added some ATF to my Jeep today since the fluid level was low. The brand is CAM2 (I guess its pretty generic) and I have a 32RH auto trans. Should I be worried? I didn't add much, a little less than .5 liters.
My 98 TJ 32rh auto trans was long shifting from 2nd to drive. I changed the trans fluid and filter. Ran 12 qts thru it to flush it. Helped about 85% today I talked to a transmission shop and they told me that there is a Service Bulletin on this problem. He said the seals get hard when cold and need to be softened up. He recommended TransX an additive for 30 days or until it stops slipping slow then flush the trans again. Anyone else ever heard of this?