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Old 07-23-2012, 06:27 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Don't forget the Novak cable shifter.

Can't beat a flat belly:

I have seen a lot of mentioning of the Novak cable shifter... why? I really don't get it.... is the linkage that far out of wack that it's needed?


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TnDz keep us posted on your UCF install I have basically the same setup you do. I plan on getting UCF just would like to know the ease of the install and such.
Don't I always? LOL!!!!!

I will do a small writeup I guess..... with a video... maybe....

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Old 07-23-2012, 07:50 AM   #32
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Get a big piece of 1/4" steel and bolt it up... thats basically my plan down the road a lil ways.
I made my TT for about 50 bucks and some time on the drill press and welder, Its not completely flat my x-member hangs down 2" but my trans is flat with the bottom of the frame, I'm very happy with it. Plus I should never break it, I built it for the strength of full size stuff... a couple pics for ya... the x-member is 1/4" wall 2x3 rectangle with a poly mount and the tabs that it bolts to off the frame are 3/8" angle I will be skinning it with plate when the build is done.


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Old 07-23-2012, 08:29 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
I have seen a lot of mentioning of the Novak cable shifter... why? I really don't get it.... is the linkage that far out of wack that it's needed?
Ummm....yeah. The stock linkage is attached to both the tub and the transfer case. What happens when you change the relationship of those two items? The already messy, overly complex Z-linkage becomes torqued and binds. The more you change the relationship--ie, the higher the t-case is to the tub--the more upset the linkage becomes. The Novak shifter is one simple cable that doesn't rely on the tub's position at all. Simple, smooth, and very effective.
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I made my TT for about 50 bucks and some time on the drill press and welder, Its not completely flat my x-member hangs down 2" but my trans is flat with the bottom of the frame, I'm very happy with it. Plus I should never break it, I built it for the strength of full size stuff... a couple pics for ya... the x-member is 1/4" wall 2x3 rectangle with a poly mount and the tabs that it bolts to off the frame are 3/8" angle I will be skinning it with plate when the build is done.
All I see is a crossmember and, no offense, but a rudimentary one at that. That offers minimal protection and while the drivetrain is higher, you've still got a bulging edge to get caught up on. Tucking as high as possible doesn't matter one bit when you don't have a smooth surface.

Flat + protection + smooth
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:44 AM   #34
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I see your point with the binding. I will pay close attention to the linkage before and after the install and if I can manipulate the linkage to smooth out the actuation. I hope I can with little effort
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:04 PM   #35
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:06 PM   #36
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Just view it this way.....

Look at the stock orientation--no body lift, stock skid, no t-case drop--as 'ideal.' Look at anything that moves the tub away from the t-case--body lift, t-case drop--as a "+". Now look at something that moves the t-case closer to the tub--a higher clearance skid--as a "-". The linkage doesn't work very well past its neutral, stock state. If you just throw a 1" body lift on, you'll be able to adjust it to work OK. If you add a t-case drop to that equation, it'll be tougher and you'll feel exactly what I'm talking about because they're now being 'pulled' apart by two opposing items (one lowers the t-case, one raises the tub).

Now look at the opposite scenario--a 1" body lift with a skid that raises the t-case, say, 2" over stock. You're now dealing with the tub and t-case being approx. 1" closer together than stock, which can work out OK. Now take a flat skid coupled with a low profile trans mount, like mine, that raises the t-case about 3.5" over stock. Coupled with my 1" body lift, the tub and t-case are about +2.5" closer together than stock, smooshing the stock linkage together. I was able to make it work but after awhile I got tired of it being so stiff. Additionally, the terrible design bothered me to the point that I just didn't want that junk on there anymore. The Novak cable is so much more elegant, simple, and low profile. If you're of the "if it's worth doing, then it's worth doing right" camp, then you'll add that to the list.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:20 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
1" body lift with a skid that raises the t-case, say, 2" over stock. You're now dealing with the tub and t-case being approx. 1" closer together than stock, which can work out OK.
this is basically what I run, and I like it...just wish it was aluminum. It would tuck higher, but not by much because of the fat 42RLE pan.

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Old 07-23-2012, 12:26 PM   #38
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X2 on the Novak. When I got my jeep it had a BL lift and a tcase drop, I couldn't get it into 4lo due to the binding. After reading some of the reviews on the Novak, I went ahead and ordered it before I spent the money on a sye even though I knew I was gonna ditch the tcase drop and be back to a better geometry with the linkage... No question one of the best purchases I've made, it is smooth as silk to shift. I did my sye and didnt have to make any adjustments to it and I have the ability to do a tummy tuck in the future and if it needs adjusting it is as easy as loosening a jam nut to allow more/less cable pull.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:28 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
I have seen a lot of mentioning of the Novak cable shifter... why? I really don't get it.... is the linkage that far out of wack that it's needed?
Get a little more experience with things before making that decision.
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:54 PM   #40
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Oh yeah. Not gonna jump in and buy right away. I wanna see how bad it really is an might just need a tweak here and there
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:04 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnDz TJ
Oh yeah. Not gonna jump in and buy right away. I wanna see how bad it really is an might just need a tweak here and there
You will more then not need it. I tried skating by but it didnt work, 4wd was all bound up.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:07 AM   #42
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Imped- I don't think you read it right but I said I would be skinning the bottom of the jeep when I'm done that x-member is not my skid plate. just a crossmember. once I'm done with my skid plate it may not be flat with my frame rails but i will slide over anything and th bottom of my jeep will be smooth.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #43
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Imped- I don't think you read it right but I said I would be skinning the bottom of the jeep when I'm done that x-member is not my skid plate. just a crossmember. once I'm done with my skid plate it may not be flat with my frame rails but i will slide over anything and th bottom of my jeep will be smooth.
Clearly I missed that. But I think you could have got that xmember tucked up nicely between the frame rails....actually I know you could have. Before going further, you may want to look into redesigning that.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:40 PM   #44
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Don't forget the Novak cable shifter.

Can't beat a flat belly:

oh yeah thats what im looking for. What sye should i look into they are a few different options. the super short by jb looks like what i want so the angle isnt too drastic
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Old 07-25-2012, 07:47 AM   #45
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JB SS is as good as you can get.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:44 AM   #46
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So when u adjust the control arms to change pinion angle. Do u rotate the axle changing the spring and shock alignment?
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:53 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkNog

Get a big piece of 1/4" steel and bolt it up... thats basically my plan down the road a lil ways.
You're better off with aluminum :o
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:11 AM   #48
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You're better off with aluminum :o
I have the UCF steel version, its heavy but solid. If I had the extra money I may have gone aluminum.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:05 AM   #49
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I also got the steel version... should be here Friday....
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:38 AM   #50
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I also got the steel version... should be here Friday....
You will like it alot.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:16 PM   #51
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Quote:
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So when u adjust the control arms to change pinion angle. Do u rotate the axle changing the spring and shock alignment?
Yes you do. That is why you need an adjustable track bar or a new track bar bracket and shock relocation brackets to do it right.
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:41 PM   #52
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You will like it alot.
The wait-time is KILLING me!!!! Now it's worse.... THANKS ALOT!!!!!
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:21 PM   #53
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Rokmen Control arms Upper and lower $300 Each
Rokmen HD-Lower Control Arms
Rokmen HD-Rear Upper Control Arms

or
Savvy upper and lower $290-$300 Each
TJ/LJ REAR UPPER JOHNNY JOINT« CONTROL ARMS
TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ FRONT LOWER OR TJ/LJ REAR LOWER JJ CONTROL ARMS

A ? on the control arms. Are these what i am looking for and does anyone have any deals going on or know of cheaper ones?

Novak $170
Novak's 231 & 242 Cable Shifter Kit

UCF Mount and skid - Ultra high clearance early model $270
Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - '97-'02 TJ Transfer Case Skid (Ultra High-Clearance)(Carbon Steel)

A ? on the UCF does the ultra high provide more clearance than the deep clearance. and since i have a 2" body lift and a 1" mm lift do i not need the lo pro mount because of the automatic tranny and all the early model differences.

Brown dog 1" MM lift ultra flex rubber $110
CU2883-1K4 Jeep 2.5L, 2.4L Wrangler TJ & LJ 1" MML, Ultra-Flex Rubber

teraflex ss SYe $250
| TeraFlex Suspensions
or
JB COnversions short shaft sye $300
JB Conversions, Inc.
or
RR ss sye $150 Community deal

Drive shaft Tom woods $300
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

Teraflex rear adj track bar $220
| TeraFlex Suspensions

How does this list look and what am i missing? Does anyone know how i can save some money on this? high $2000+ low $1550 not included CA tax and shipping
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:41 PM   #54
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I want to say Savvy has a 10% off coupon JF10 if I remember correctly. You also can get their aluminum upper arms for like $30 cheaper, but yes those are good. I just put UCF Ultra High skid on last week and it works well with even a 1" BL. I also bought my Novak cable through Savvy as they were the cost of everyone else so I wanted to give my business to them.

I met Tom Wood and he sells both JB conversion SYE and Teraflex SYE. He said he would use either one and did not prefer one over the other. Those are the only two brands he sells. If you buy both at the same time I am pretty sure there is a discount. I have the Teraflex SYE and it was an easy smooth install while it was in the Jeep. I also have Tom's drive shaft which of course is nice. One thing you could do to save a little money would be to use a Track bar bracket rather than an adjustable track bar. To do a tuck properly this is what you will need:

Rear adjustable control arms (Home Made on my lathe and mill) $300
Novak shift cable $170
Tummy tuck skid $300
New 1/2" bolts and washers for the skid $5
Track bar bracket for CV drive shaft or an adjustable track bar $35
Shock relocator brackets $35
1" or larger body lift if using the UCF Ultra High Skid $100
SYE $250
CV drive shaft $275
Some cutting and fabing of the cat bracket

Overall it will cost around $1500 to do it properly.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:11 PM   #55
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I look at the cost of just doing the TT and I am SOOOOOO glad I have done everything beforehand..

I added my 1" MML last year to relieve driveline angle with my 2" BB.
Installed my 4" lift with 8 adj. CA's in April '12'
Installed my SYE, CV shaft and rear angled track bar braket same time as lift.
Added my 1.25" BL in June '12'

All I needed was the skid from UCF and hopefully just a linkage adjustment to tackle the potential bind... if not... I will be getting the Novak cable setup.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #56
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Yea but it still sucks to see it all lumped up in one cost tho lol. Im in the process of axle swap, regear and lockers and theres no way to break up that cost sadly. This I will have to take my time and add small things at a time so I can keep it under the radar.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:26 PM   #57
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I hear ya..... I collected parts for 7 months before doing anything... worst 7 months of my life with my TJ...
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:27 PM   #58
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Overall it will cost around $1500 to do it properly.
It is costly. I did it over a period of seven years, building her slowly. The thing is, once you change one thing, you have to change something else to compensate for the new part lol.
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:34 PM   #59
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Some pics of my UCF Skid, Lo Pro Mount, Novak Cable shifter;
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:26 PM   #60
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I love my UCF transfer case skid. And the Novak cable shifter is the way to go as well. I tries to do the TT, BL, MMl and retain the stock linkage but it was all out of whack.
This is what will show up on your door step

Add a little paint

and no more stock shovel

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