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Old 07-30-2012, 07:56 AM   #61
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Rokmen Control arms Upper and lower $300 Each
Rokmen HD-Lower Control Arms
Rokmen HD-Rear Upper Control Arms

or
Savvy upper and lower $290-$300 Each
TJ/LJ REAR UPPER JOHNNY JOINT« CONTROL ARMS
TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ FRONT LOWER OR TJ/LJ REAR LOWER JJ CONTROL ARMS

A ? on the control arms. Are these what i am looking for and does anyone have any deals going on or know of cheaper ones?
I'd recommend any arm with Johnny Joints at both ends; Rokemn, Savvy, and Currie have those. Provided there are JJs at both ends, it really doesn't matter what's between the arms. They're expensive, but worth it in my opinion. I've had them for about a year, and with little to no maintenance they are still as tight and quiet as the day I installed them.

If you want to save a few bucks, you can see if a local driveline shop can save you a few bucks on the drive shaft. There is nothing really special about a TW shaft, they just happen to be cheaper for many of us who have no good local options. Other than that your best bet is to shop around. It's an expensive process; doing it in steps is my best recommendation.

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Old 07-30-2012, 09:38 AM   #62
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Looks great solman. How Long was the install? Geiman thanks for the response.

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Old 07-30-2012, 09:44 AM   #63
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I did Currie CAs and Nth Degree skid with SYE and double C shaft from Tom woods... rolling on 35s I have tackled obsticals that guys on 37s were bottomed out on... I also have a savvy tank skid(lifted)
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:59 PM   #64
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A ? on the control arms. Are these what i am looking for and does anyone have any deals going on or know of cheaper ones?

Iron rock offroad
makes them. A nice little bonus is their clevite bushing end is a 1-1/4"-12 thread, same as the common johhny joint if you'd ever decide to switch the one end out.


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coupon code "NAXJA" = 10%

Hope that helps ya save a few bucks. Put it towards aluminum from UCF instead of steel...
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:02 PM   #65
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Hi a ? on the iron rock ca's. they seem like the best deal around but are they direct replacements. whats the difference in clevite bushing and a johnny joint? and what size should i be looking at ordering the site is a little confusing. thanks for the code as well

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Originally Posted by deucestudios View Post

Iron rock offroad
makes them. A nice little bonus is their clevite bushing end is a 1-1/4"-12 thread, same as the common johhny joint if you'd ever decide to switch the one end out.




coupon code "NAXJA" = 10%

Hope that helps ya save a few bucks. Put it towards aluminum from UCF instead of steel...
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:35 PM   #66
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Looks great solman. How Long was the install? Geiman thanks for the response.
Thanks, I did it in about 90 minutes. That was after I painted it of course. Its a pretty straight forward install. I rocment doing the cable transfer case shifter install at the same time. It is much easier with the skid plate out of the way.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:16 PM   #67
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TnDz keep us posted on your UCF install I have basically the same setup you do. I plan on getting UCF just would like to know the ease of the install and such.
ok....

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tumm...le-178112.html
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:55 PM   #68
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was over on pirate and i saw this skid plate $100 less and 1/4 steel 60lbs TJ LJ CJ & YJ Skid Plates - Pirate4x4.Com
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:54 PM   #69
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bump any one look at these skids ^ Lp
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:39 PM   #70
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You can drill your own mounting points... but there is no rigidity or backbone to the skid.... just a plate with bent lips on it.... can't see spending cash on that... my .02
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:45 PM   #71
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Hi a ? on the iron rock ca's. they seem like the best deal around but are they direct replacements. whats the difference in clevite bushing and a johnny joint? and what size should i be looking at ordering the site is a little confusing. thanks for the code as well
They are bent versions of stock arms, no gain with the same Clevite bushings. The adjustability is the only thing going for those. They won't flex like stockers do and probably rip a mount off. You can do much, much better.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #72
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You can drill your own mounting points... but there is no rigidity or backbone to the skid.... just a plate with bent lips on it.... can't see spending cash on that... my .02
Yeah It doesn't look as if it Would take a rock that well. I was looking to save some cash but I want something sturdy so I'll stick with the ucf
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:26 PM   #73
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ordering a ucf now and was wondering if the 1/4 steel is worth it over the 3/16 steel version. i know the aluminum is everyone's favorite but i feel like steel is the best i mean they make beer can out of aluminum lol what are the pros and cons is 3/16th steel really going to bend from the weight of 3k-4k pound car
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:50 PM   #74
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ordering a ucf now and was wondering if the 1/4 steel is worth it over the 3/16 steel version. i know the aluminum is everyone's favorite but i feel like steel is the best i mean they make beer can out of aluminum lol what are the pros and cons is 3/16th steel really going to bend from the weight of 3k-4k pound car
I have the 3/16" plate.... I caught it on a bolder and bent the front 3" of it down the middle ( Don't ask me how I missed a bolder... lol ). I'm not sure if the 1/4" would be any better.... our Jeeps are not that heavy to begin with.

I am straightening mine out and adding a 1x1x.25 angle iron ridge across the front inside edge for a little more strength.

1/4" vs 3/16"... what is the weight difference? Mine was 66 lbs shipped...
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:01 PM   #75
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10lbs? Mine was 77lbs if I recall correctly.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #76
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With proper bracing I would think 3/16" would be enough for either, but you might have better luck getting 3/16" for the transfercase skid and 1/4" for the engine skid. I've seen a good many people go that route.

Can't speak from experience though, I went the aluminium route. I like not having anything exposed to hang up on (no bolt heads, lips, etc.), and not many aftermarket companies seem to have realized that the profile of the t-case skid is important. Plus, the aluminium skids are nice and light; I can easily lift both the t-case and engine skids alone without much effort.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:50 AM   #77
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Perhaps I should've disclosed that I am running the 1/4" UCF transfer case skid. It arrived @ 77 lbs.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:20 AM   #78
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10lbs? Mine was 77lbs if I recall correctly.
The aluminum one is 27lbs.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:06 AM   #79
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With proper bracing I would think 3/16" would be enough for either, but you might have better luck getting 3/16" for the transfercase skid and 1/4" for the engine skid. I've seen a good many people go that route.

Can't speak from experience though, I went the aluminium route. I like not having anything exposed to hang up on (no bolt heads, lips, etc.), and not many aftermarket companies seem to have realized that the profile of the t-case skid is important. Plus, the aluminium skids are nice and light; I can easily lift both the t-case and engine skids alone without much effort.
Are yal use'n A36 3/16" plate for your skids? What about use'n 1/8 or 3/16 grade 50 plate wouldn't that be much to strong for a skid?
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:31 PM   #80
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Are yal use'n A36 3/16" plate for your skids? What about use'n 1/8 or 3/16 grade 50 plate wouldn't that be much to strong for a skid?
Personally I'm running 6061-t6 aluminium, so I can't answer your question for steel. It's Savvy's UA skid. If I was doing things over again, I'd probably make my own (just to say I did) with 1/4" 6061 like this gentleman did:

So you want a Tummy Tuck... - Page 46 - JeepForum.com

If you plan on using the skids much, I don't think I'd bother with 1/8" but that's just my opinion.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:19 PM   #81
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anyone have the link to the angled track bar bracket? i cant find one and have searched for a half hour the one i did find was around $80 and i know someone had mentioned it being around half that. need to save a little bit because shipping is killing me
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #82
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:03 PM   #83
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I paid $53 plus $8 shipped by FedEx last week for the RE one above on amazon.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:12 PM   #84
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I run 2003 TJ w/ RC 4" lift, 1" BL, 1" MML, Undercover Fab Works Extra Clearance skid, UCF Lo Pro Mount, Novak Cable Shifter, ADJ Rear Uppers Adj Rear Lowers, ADJ rear track bar, RR SYE and a TW DS. All this was needed when I added the tummy tuck. But worth the money in the long run. I did it all over a period of a year.
Undercover Fab works makes some nice quality stuff. I also run his diff covers.
I have a similar setup and really like it. UCF ultra high-clearance aluminum skid (1" drop), low pro transfer case mount, Novak cable shifter, Currie rear upper arms and an SYE. I really like the UCF parts, but needed to relocate and purchase a lower profile cat to clear the transfer case mount.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:08 PM   #85
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:13 PM   #86
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i ended up getting the barnes offroad flat belly skid and i have to drill my own mounting holes and trans mount but i think it should work out okay. and i plan on putting some bracing onto the plate because as it is i am worried it is a bit flimsy Jeep TJ Flat Skid Plate
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:23 PM   #87
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Hope you have all the goodies its gonna take to get that on the Jeep... Keep us posted.... I wanna know the down and dirty.

I am ordering a lopro mount for my skid... puts way too much angle on my rear CV. I can't even droop my rear axle by the frame without binding the double cardin on the rear shaft... scary!!!
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:37 PM   #88
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I still have the stock trans mount and planed on using that. What's the purpose of the low pro will that mount it closer to the tub
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:05 PM   #89
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I still have the stock trans mount and planed on using that. What's the purpose of the low pro will that mount it closer to the tub
Is the purpose not evident when you read the description and think about why you would want a lower profile trans mount?

What purpose would raising the drivetrain toward the tub have?
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:42 AM   #90
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It bring the trans and skid closer together for angles. That's all u had to say

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