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Old 07-14-2012, 01:09 PM   #1
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Tummy tuck ?'s

I just bought a jeep with a 2"bl and a 4" rc lift and it looks like it has a 1' tc drop and no sye. I was looking at getting a sye and removing the transfer case drop to gain more clearance in the middle. can anyone direct me on what i need to do in order to gain more ground clearance in the middle and if this is a good start.

I have a hp d44 that i would like to eventually swap into the front and get a f 8.8 for the rear. The jeep is a 2.5 with a 3 speed auto

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Old 07-14-2012, 02:55 PM   #2
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SYE and new shaft are definitely required with your setup... the 2" BL will be more than enough to get the TT done with or without a lopro mount.

Look into UCF high clearance skids... they have a few to choose from for ultra high and high with and without BL's and which ones require the lopro mounts.

I have a 1.25" BL and will be ordering their high clearance skid without a lopro mount that will gain me about 2.5" more clearance.

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Old 07-14-2012, 03:49 PM   #3
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He will need to dial in the pinion as well with the new TT. I don't think those rc arms are adjustable?
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:50 PM   #4
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i am not getting why these skid plates are so expensive, i mean it's a bended metal sheet
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
He will need to dial in the pinion as well with the new TT. I don't think those rc arms are adjustable?
You are right... I forgot that IMPORTANT tidbit of info.... Adjustable rear upper controls arms will be required and I recommend adj. lowers as well. to keep your axle in the correct location... lengthen the uppers and shorten the lowers to rotate the pinion angle up where it needs to be.

I also didn't mention the need for an angled CV track bar bracket which is needed to keep your track bar mount at the axle better aligned with the frame mount after SYE install and pinion rotation. An adj. track bar can correct the misalignment as well.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLATEOTW
i am not getting why these skid plates are so expensive, i mean it's a bended metal sheet
"research and development" and all the expensive tools it takes for them to design and cut them out plus pay themselves and the shops. And a fairly small market.
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:43 PM   #7
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I would suggest the Mega short sye. You already have a 4" lift. With a tt the standard sye won't likely allow for a long enough span to correct the angle. Or in other words will leave the cv in a bind with any kind of droop.

I would really look at rokmen, or savvy for control arms. You will most certainly need upper and lower adjustable arms.
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:39 PM   #8
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Thank you all for the responses. This all sounds expensive lol. A bit over 1,000 sound right? Will I be able to finally conquer the rubicon with some good driving?
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbkelley89
Thank you all for the responses. This all sounds expensive lol. A bit over 1,000 sound right? Will I be able to finally conquer the rubicon with some good driving?
You can do rubicon stock IMO. Easier with at least one locker and 33s. Still takes a heck of a driver.

Sye is about 350, shaft 300. Arms are 300 a set. Adj track bar like 200? The plate itself around 500? Close to 2 grand said and done if you go high quality parts all around and buy everything. Its an expensive upgrade. You can def cut money off that though. Depends what you want to sacrifice or what else your doing at the time. If you can weld. Etc.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:25 PM   #10
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My Ultra High Tummy Tuck from UCF will be here Monday. Here is what you will need to do things right:

SYE $250ish
CV drive shaft $300ish
Adjustable upper rear control arms $300ish
Possible body lift depending on what tuck you want $100ish
Novak shift cable $160ish
New skid plate $350ish

That will depend on what parts you get, but just under $1500 is a better idea of what it will cost you.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie
My Ultra High Tummy Tuck from UCF will be here Monday. Here is what you will need to do things right:

SYE $250ish
CV drive shaft $300ish
Adjustable upper rear control arms $300ish
Possible body lift depending on what tuck you want $100ish
Novak shift cable $160ish
New skid plate $350ish

That will depend on what parts you get, but just under $1500 is a better idea of what it will cost you.
Add the other set of control arms and tools spare parts, oil, and you get my price. Like I said some stuff is optional. My first estimate for my build was right around yours minus the skid plate, hopefully getting mine and a buddies build together. Still expensive however you look at it.
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:49 AM   #12
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You guys saying you need the SYE, do you have spring lift too?
I've got the UCF ultra high & 1" brown dog motor mount lift coming in the mail, gonna throw it on the same time as a 1" body lift.
With no other change, I was thinking no SYE yet...
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:13 AM   #13
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I run 2003 TJ w/ RC 4" lift, 1" BL, 1" MML, Undercover Fab Works Extra Clearance skid, UCF Lo Pro Mount, Novak Cable Shifter, ADJ Rear Uppers Adj Rear Lowers, ADJ rear track bar, RR SYE and a TW DS. All this was needed when I added the tummy tuck. But worth the money in the long run. I did it all over a period of a year.
Undercover Fab works makes some nice quality stuff. I also run his diff covers.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:17 AM   #14
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You guys saying you need the SYE, do you have spring lift too?
I've got the UCF ultra high & 1" brown dog motor mount lift coming in the mail, gonna throw it on the same time as a 1" body lift.
With no other change, I was thinking no SYE yet...
UCF and Brown Dogg make nice stuff, good choice.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #15
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UCF and Brown Dogg make nice stuff, good choice.
I bought the 1' mml outstanding mounts never been happier
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:29 AM   #16
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I bought the 1' mml outstanding mounts never been happier
Yes, if any one buys them, please get the the rubber. Worth the extra money.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:29 AM   #17
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I just finished gathering up everything for the same project. I have a 4" spring lift and brown dog mm lift and adj trackbar and upper/lower adj control arms already installed. I just got the ucf ultra high skidplate, novak cable, teraflex Mega short, Tom woods ds, 1.25 bl, and 2qts Mobil 1 atf, oh and a new set of lockring pliars and the six or eight new 1 1/2 13 tpi bolts for the skidplate.
Definitely a good $1000 or so, but I think its money well spent!
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:51 AM   #18
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2003x do u have any pics of how it sits with all the mods.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:23 AM   #19
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.. Will I be able to finally conquer the rubicon with some good driving?
I did the Rubicon last year on a 2" BB and 31's with LSD Dana 35 and open front Dana 30 on 3.07 gears.... it's doable for sure and just depends on your finesse and the lines you take. I did take on some trail damage, but that was expected... no body damage though.

I'm heading back to the Con on 24-27 Aug with 3-4 Jeepin friends... should be a great long weekend.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:19 AM   #20
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If you were to do this in small phases what would you do first?

My guess is the BL/MML first, then control arms, then track bar, Seems like you would want the drive shafts/SYE and the actual high clearance skid plate last. Is this right or should I just save up and do it all at once and have my wife complain more? lol
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:54 AM   #21
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You can do rubicon stock IMO. Easier with at least one locker and 33s. Still takes a heck of a driver.
Stock.... um.... maybe.... 31's and 2" lift, LSD rear and open front.... yeah... I did it, but mangled my lowers and shovel. Keeping your wheels on the ground for all the traction you can muster up will pull you through 9 out of 10 times ( with some exceptions )

As for the driver having the 'skill'.... sure... and its the lines you take... just like any obstacles you encounter on a trail.

Once you get into the research of what is required for a TT.... you find out it's not just a belly pan that makes it work.

I ordered my UCF high clearance skid yesterday..... I already have SYE, 1" MML, 1.25" BL and all adjustable CA's and Tatton rear CV shaft sitting at 4" .... I should be good to go.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:17 PM   #22
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im going to start putting a parts list together i will post it up so when i have it and u can all give me your opinions i want to order it all this next week # payday
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:21 PM   #23
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If you were to do this in small phases what would you do first?

My guess is the BL/MML first, then control arms, then track bar, Seems like you would want the drive shafts/SYE and the actual high clearance skid plate last. Is this right or should I just save up and do it all at once and have my wife complain more? lol

I would do the MML and BL first, yes.....

buy the CA's and put them on a shelf for when you get the SYE and DS

adj. track bar for rear or.....

(This is for a 4" Lift )
You can get away with a stock track bar if you get the Angled rear track bar bracket ( I run one ) RE1602 is what I have though Currie and JKS make them as well... around $65 I am talking a 4" lift here... FYI


Once you have the CA's, track bar bracket/ adj. trackbar and SYE/DS.... you are set for the install.....

you can do it then... afterwards add your TT skid and readjust the CA's again for the proper pinion angle.... OR..... save up for the skid and do it all at once.....

I did mine like this:

1"MML when I had vibes with 2" BB on 31's (shroud mod required )
SYE/DS with adj. CA's when I lifted it.
1.25" BL after I needed a bit more clearance for stuff even with 2.75" bump stops ( linkage adjustment required )

Now I am waiting on my UCF skid... hopefully it will be a bolt-in with slight adjustments to linkage and rear CA's for pinion angle.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbkelley89
2003x do u have any pics of how it sits with all the mods.
Yes, I am on my phone, but hit the link below in my signature, tons of pics there.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:39 PM   #25
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i am not getting why these skid plates are so expensive, i mean it's a bended metal sheet
Get a big piece of 1/4" steel and bolt it up... thats basically my plan down the road a lil ways.
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Old 07-22-2012, 05:01 PM   #26
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Get a big piece of 1/4" steel and bolt it up... thats basically my plan down the road a lil ways.
Lol, is it that simple?
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:59 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by TnDz TJ View Post
I would do the MML and BL first, yes.....

buy the CA's and put them on a shelf for when you get the SYE and DS

adj. track bar for rear or.....

(This is for a 4" Lift )
You can get away with a stock track bar if you get the Angled rear track bar bracket ( I run one ) RE1602 is what I have though Currie and JKS make them as well... around $65 I am talking a 4" lift here... FYI


Once you have the CA's, track bar bracket/ adj. trackbar and SYE/DS.... you are set for the install.....

you can do it then... afterwards add your TT skid and readjust the CA's again for the proper pinion angle.... OR..... save up for the skid and do it all at once.....

I did mine like this:

1"MML when I had vibes with 2" BB on 31's (shroud mod required )
SYE/DS with adj. CA's when I lifted it.
1.25" BL after I needed a bit more clearance for stuff even with 2.75" bump stops ( linkage adjustment required )

Now I am waiting on my UCF skid... hopefully it will be a bolt-in with slight adjustments to linkage and rear CA's for pinion angle.
sweet thx for the help, I knew I could count on you folks!
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:14 PM   #28
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Don't forget the Novak cable shifter.

Can't beat a flat belly:

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Old 07-22-2012, 08:39 PM   #29
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don't forget the novak cable shifter.
x2.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #30
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TnDz keep us posted on your UCF install I have basically the same setup you do. I plan on getting UCF just would like to know the ease of the install and such.

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