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Old 02-18-2008, 01:55 AM   #1
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U-joint replacement

ok so I think its time to get some new U joints for the TJ. I would like to know, if I want some greasable U joints, what brand would be cheapest and strongest? also I want to know what model number I would need for these and how many I have to order.

98 TJ, 2.5L, D30 in front and D35 in rear...

I was looking into the spicer brand are they good?

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Old 02-18-2008, 05:01 AM   #2
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Spicer U-joints are, you lack of a better term, The "universal" u-joints.

I bought them at my local auto parts store for about $15, if memory serves me right.

I've never had a problem with them.

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Old 02-18-2008, 11:10 AM   #3
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spicer are good joints but deff. get greasable. It make them last longer if you can service them because being able to grease them will keep contamination out. If your are just doing your front axle then you will need 2. One for each side to connect the inner and outter shafts. If you also want to do the driveshafts then you'll need 4 more. So 6 in total to do it all. Tom woods also offers a neat joint that allows for 15* of more misalignment but Im not sure that you would need that. Check out the gold seal joint though because they are greasable (by Tom Woods).
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:55 PM   #4
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I'll go against the grain on greasable vs. sealed u-joints and recommend Spicer's sealed u-joints. If you wheel in deep wet mud a lot and keep them greased religously, sealed u-joints are the way to go. But for the rest of us who don't run mud bogs on a continuous basis, I believe Spicer's latest triple-sealed u-joints are far more durable and stronger. Most greasable u-joints have grease channels drilled through them which weakens the u-joint body. Only those with grease zerks on each bearing cap like the CTM u-joints don't have grease channels which causes the weaker body issue.

At least I believe Spicer's current triple-sealed joints are stronger and more durable. No telling how long other non-Spicer brands will last. When I rebuilt my Tom Wood CV driveshaft last year, I removed the greasable 1310 u-joints and installed sealed Spicers, and the same with the latest CV driveshaft just ordered last week... all sealed u-joints. But then I wheel in the desert where strength is more important than nearly anything. For your axles, I'd go with Spicers 5-760x u-joints which are the latest 760 size sealed u-joints. For driveshafts, the sealed version of the 1310 u-joint is Spicer 5-785x.
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Old 02-18-2008, 06:32 PM   #5
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I'll go against the grain on greasable vs. sealed u-joints and recommend Spicer's sealed u-joints. If you wheel in deep wet mud a lot and keep them greased religously, sealed u-joints are the way to go. But for the rest of us who don't run mud bogs on a continuous basis, I believe Spicer's latest triple-sealed u-joints are far more durable and stronger. Most greasable u-joints have grease channels drilled through them which weakens the u-joint body. Only those with grease zerks on each bearing cap like the CTM u-joints don't have grease channels which causes the weaker body issue.

At least I believe Spicer's current triple-sealed joints are stronger and more durable. No telling how long other non-Spicer brands will last. When I rebuilt my Tom Wood CV driveshaft last year, I removed the greasable 1310 u-joints and installed sealed Spicers, and the same with the latest CV driveshaft just ordered last week... all sealed u-joints. But then I wheel in the desert where strength is more important than nearly anything. For your axles, I'd go with Spicers 5-760x u-joints which are the latest 760 size sealed u-joints. For driveshafts, the sealed version of the 1310 u-joint is Spicer 5-785x.
jerry seeing how I live in oregon, we have mud, rocks, snow, and ice (mostly mud around here though) what would be the best for me? I wouldn't be doing any heavy duty "boggs" or anything but just trails that have a "few" holes full of mud and water.

I looked at the Spicer 5-760x u-joints but those are for a D44 I have a D30 up front and the D35 in the rear. As for the Spicer 5-785x Im looking for the sealed version not the greasable version correct? this will be my first time doing U-Joints and want to make sure that it is as painless as possible.

one more question, I'm getting some major popping when I'm backing up while turning and going forward starting out so... I think its about time to get new ball joints for the D30 any brand or type ya'll recommend? greasable non-greasable? like I said right now I'm on a little bit of a budget so as good as I can get but not too outragious.
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:18 PM   #6
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The Rubicon's front Dana 44 and Wrangler's front Dana 30 axleshafts both use the exact same 760 size u-joint so the 5-760x is what you want for your Dana 30 too.

When you say the rear, you're talking driveshaft right? Because the rear axle itself does not use u-joints. The driveshaft uses a 1310 u-joint which is a 5-785x if you want the sealed type.

For your wheeling conditions I'd stick with Spicer's triple-sealed u-joints.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:07 PM   #7
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thanks jerry. ya the I ment the rear driveshaft. I was just stating that the rear axle had the D35

any ideas about the ball joints?
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:16 PM   #8
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any ideas about the ball joints?

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Old 08-10-2008, 05:53 PM   #9
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get a ball joint tool. sometimes you can rent them from auto stores. they can be a pain in the ass though. I did mine in a few hours but I never want to do that again! good luck with it!

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