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Old 10-23-2013, 02:16 PM   #1
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U-Joints - Greasable Or Non-Greasable ???

When replacing your U-Joints, which is the better U-Joint choice?
  • The type where you can add grease to the joint via of a grease fitting;
  • The type where there is no grease fitting. (The grease is already inside of the caps.)
What are the PROs & CONs for each type?

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Old 10-23-2013, 02:37 PM   #2
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #3
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WHAT DO I KNOW?
But my vote would be WITH → After all, Lubrication is vital to all things Mechanical.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:46 PM   #4
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If you do much off roading especially mud and water I would go for the ones I could grease. The grease will push the water out making the joint last longer imo
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:51 PM   #5
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The hole that is tapped for the zerk fitting causes a weak spot for the u-joint to crack and break. Just my .02 cents.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:55 PM   #6
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I use greasable in driveshafts, non-greasable in axles. The axle joints see much more torque, and at worse angles than the driveshafts, so the extra strength of solid crosses helps.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:58 PM   #7
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Back when I was drag racing we always used the solid (no zerk) because it was stronger. But my gut feeling on a jeep would be to use the one you can grease.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:24 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by C.L. View Post
I use greasable in driveshafts, non-greasable in axles. The axle joints see much more torque, and at worse angles than the driveshafts, so the extra strength of solid crosses helps.
Im down with this. Agreed also, if you go through a lot of mud and water, greasable in the driveshafts is a smart idea. But if you don't bother to regularly grease them or check the u joints, then its not a bad idea getting the non greasable ones. I think it really all depends on how the vehicle is used and how diligent you are with maintaining it.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ssmopar View Post
If you do much off roading especially mud and water I would go for the ones I could grease. The grease will push the water out making the joint last longer imo
But, if you do a lot of mudding, wouldn't the zerk fitting allow mud to get into the u-joint?

Can mud get into the non-greaseable fittings, too?
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:09 PM   #10
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Spicer triple sealed, not a fan of the weaker joints with a hole through the most critical sections.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:07 PM   #11
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In my personal opinion, quality sealed u-joints like from Spicer are significantly stronger & more durable than greasable u-joints are since they don't have hollow grease channels running through them from the zerk out to the each of the four bearings.

The only kind of wheeling I would choose greasable u-joints for would be for regular use in deep soupy mud conditions where absolute strength is not the primary concern... and then you must stay on top of greasing them or they will fail since greasable u-joints are not nearly as well sealed as sealed u-joints are.

Personally, I believe Spicer's current series of triple-sealed u-joints are the strongest and most durable u-joints ever made by Spicer... long a recognized leader in u-joints and drivetrain components.

For standard TJ (non-Rubicon) driveshafts I'd go with Spicer's 5-1310x. For the front axle shafts, I'd go with their 5-760x. Both of which are triple sealed. Under typical conditions I'd expect nothing less than 100k miles out of them.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:40 PM   #12
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In my personal opinion, quality sealed u-joints like from Spicer are significantly stronger & more durable than greasable u-joints are since they don't have hollow grease channels running through them from the zerk out to the each of the four bearings.

The only kind of wheeling I would choose greasable u-joints for would be for regular use in deep soupy mud conditions where absolute strength is not the primary concern... and then you must stay on top of greasing them or they will fail since greasable u-joints are not nearly as well sealed as sealed u-joints are.

Personally, I believe Spicer's current series of triple-sealed u-joints are the strongest and most durable u-joints ever made by Spicer... long a recognized leader in u-joints and drivetrain components.

For standard TJ (non-Rubicon) driveshafts I'd go with Spicer's 5-1310x. For the front axle shafts, I'd go with their 5-760x. Both of which are triple sealed. Under typical conditions I'd expect nothing less than 100k miles out of them.
Jerry what would you use on a 06 Rubicon LJ ? Thanks
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:51 PM   #13
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Jerry what would you use on a 06 Rubicon LJ ? Thanks
Not sure about DS joints in the rubi, but my front joints are spicer 5-760x. I have to buy them online as nowhere local has them. Although I have yet to snap a u-joint, I've worked the half-clips loose twice now and lost caps (on the trail) so the last time I replaced one I put four tacks on every cap.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:15 PM   #14
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Jerry what would you use on a 06 Rubicon LJ ? Thanks
Rubicon driveshaft u-joints changed between 2003 and 2004 & I lost my info when my computer crashed earlier this year that listed the Rubicon u-joint combinations for all years. Unfortunately it's hard to find a good complete list of the Rubicon u-joints using the latest Dana triple-sealed u-joints, there are at least 4-5 different types of driveshaft u-joints used on all model years of Rubicons.

That'll be one of my tasks to complete sometime soon, get the OE part numbers from my FSMs & convert them to the latest Spicer part numbers.

I agree that the Spicer 5-760x is the way to go for all front axle shafts used on all Wrangler TJs. That is the u-joint that came stock on Rubicons & is a nice stronger upgrade for the OE 5-297x that came on all non-Rubicon TJs.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:23 PM   #15
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I always choose the greaseable ones but let me point out a couple of arguments against them:
Picking up my length altered driveshafts at a shop that only did driveshafts (due to a transmission change) the shop mgr. told me to use greaseable joints ONLY if I would grease them regularly. If you do not they will not last long. He pointed out that on his personal vehicles he used non-greaseable joints exclusively.

Part B) I have held in my hand, a broken, non-grease zerk U-joint that still had the cross drilled out in the middle. The last 3/8" was not drilled and tapped for the zerk, but I repeat, the drilled out, hollow cross was still there.
Think about it. Do you think a mfg. will tool up and cast two different u-joints for the same application? No way, too expensive. They cast one, and drill that last fraction of an inch and tap it for a zerk if needed. One casting, zerked or not.

So the argument that one is stronger may not necessarily be true.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:29 PM   #16
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I have no doubt some manufacturers take shortcuts, you won't find a partially drilled Spicer sealed u-joint like the 5-760x or 5-1310x. That's why I always recommend Spicers, they don't take shortcuts.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:47 PM   #17
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The only kind of wheeling I would choose greasable u-joints for would be for regular use in deep soupy mud conditions where absolute strength is not the primary concern... and then you must stay on top of greasing them or they will fail since greasable u-joints are not nearly as well sealed as sealed u-joints are.
Add in a DC shaft. If you use non greasable joints what do you do for the centering ball to keep it lubed?
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:51 PM   #18
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Like u-joints, CV centering joints from Spicer are available in both sealed and greasable versions.
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:40 AM   #19
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I received some Spicer 5-1310x joints for my TJ today and wanted to know which of the 3 sets of clips to use on our Jeeps? There are three different colored ones in the box :/
I put in the 5-760x joints in the axles a while ago as they were bone dry and binding bad, but am now doing the driveshafts. I got the Spicer non-greasable CV centering joint too. They all look like nice parts, just need to figure out the clips for the 1310's
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:01 AM   #20
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Use the clips that match what are in your driveshafts now.
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:03 PM   #21
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The rust colored ones?!
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:24 PM   #22
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Yeah what would you guys reccomend? I mean my rear driveshaft is completely geese able from Tom woods u joints and cv. I was thinking I need to rebuild my front cv and u joints so was thinking sealed cv and u joints that wy after wheeling I only have to pull the rear shaft not the front.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:17 PM   #23
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Unless you requested otherwise, Tom built your driveshaft with 1310 size u-joints so it'd be real hard to beat Spicer's triple-sealed 5-1310x u-joints. Not only are they stronger than greasable u-joints and what the factory originally installed, they aren't the PITA that greasable u-joints are.
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:59 PM   #24
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I used all Spicer U-joints... all greasable though. Im regularly in water and muck deep enough to warrant such a decision.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:59 PM   #25
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Ok thanks i have toms gold seals in the rear. Ill just go sealed cv ball centering kit and 3 spicer u joints sealed thanks Jerry
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Old 10-25-2013, 02:36 AM   #26
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Use the clips that match what are in your driveshafts now.
I'm still confused about the clips, sorry. They look alike, just different colors. I stack them on top of each other and they seem to be the same size. The ones in the Jeep are rust colored!
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Old 10-25-2013, 03:20 AM   #27
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:56 PM   #28
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I used all Spicer U-joints... all greasable though. Im regularly in water and muck deep enough to warrant such a decision.
Nice pic!
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:31 AM   #29
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Ok thanks i have toms gold seals in the rear. Ill just go sealed cv ball centering kit and 3 spicer u joints sealed thanks Jerry
Won't changing it Tom's u joints void ur warranty on the shaft ik that's what my paperwork from him said
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:05 PM   #30
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I was talking about the centering ball and u joints for the front driveshaft. I'm keeping everything the same in my stock Tom woods our back front currently has new centering ball kit and 3 spicer sealed u joints!!! She's all fixed up I think I finished it about a month ago or something

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