So i was a douche bag and bought a set of shocks from some guy here in town. After i got home i started to do a more intense inspection. And noticed that the hoop and stud were on the wrong ends...lol
My question is. Will they work if i was to turn them upside down. I would think that they would still operate the same.
I have set it up that im going to my brothers shop tomorrow to install them along with new springs and a spacer lift. Hense the urgent status.
I had my rough country rear shocks on backwards at the end before i got tired of them and replaced them, it didnt seem to make difference. *ahem*, they still rode like crap.
Ok so i sat out in the snow for about 4 hours workin on the front end installing the lift and "trying" to get my stock shocks off.
Well i got the front spacers installed. But i couldnt get the damn shocks off
I would lock down on the top stud and throw a end wrench on the nut and it would just spin and spin... finaly i gave up since i couldnt feel my hands anymore.
I would lock down on the top stud and throw a end wrench on the nut and it would just spin and spin... finaly i gave up since i couldnt feel my hands anymore.
any secret?
whip out that grinder (dremel in my case) and make it nice and flat on each side. Then use a GOOD pair of vice grips to stop it from spinning, my cheap vice grips kept on bending which is why i used a 6 or 7mm wrench. After i got the shocks off i went to the store and bought some real nice VGs to get the stripped torx off for the rear track bar :banghead:
Shocks are designed for compression and rebound. They are distinctly different valve scenarios. So it does matter if they are installed upside down. That doesn't mean that people don't get away with putting them in backwards. I've seen many guys invert RS9000's and think they work great. Bottom line is that they will work better when the shock is in the possition it was designed to be in.
trip now i see how i can do it. I was putting my vice grips on the very top of the shaft above the bolt and it kept slipping off and tearing the metal up.
Now i see i can just cut off the plastic shroud and grab onto the shaft itself im sure i can get it loose
When I did my bro's 99 I took a 4 1/2 ang grinder and cut thos b@tch straight out. Man that job was a pain. If doing it again, I'd get the proper tool and air gun for it.
Another trick I used trying to get that top nut off was taking a 3/8" drill bit and drilling the side of the nut, it worked fast for me. Looking back though, I would have soaked 'em with a good penetrating oil for a day or so before trying to remove them.
i started soaking mine about 2-3 days before installing the lift (every nut and bolt i was aware of that will need to be taken out..... the night before doing the lift i sprayed them every 20 minutes for like an hr straight.. still no luck.. pics above is what i had to do. Everything else came loose but those would not go. they just kept spinning.
Yeah, it doesn't work all the time, but when it does....it'll make ya smile. We use this stuff out at work called AeroKroil. I haven't seen it available at retail stores, but this stuff REALLY does help.
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