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Old 11-17-2012, 11:31 PM   #31
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How long is the valve spring job?
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:12 AM   #32
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I'd guess at least 4 hours flat rate. An experienced mechanic should be able to do it in 2.

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Old 03-08-2016, 09:04 AM   #33
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Need Help

I just bought a Jeep Wrangler 4.0 automatic.
I have the code fault for the Valve Spring, I changed all of my spark plugs and wires. Which Valve Spring should I go with when I rebuild this? I appreciate the help.
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Old 04-07-2016, 03:03 PM   #34
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Hate to dredge up an old thread - but I've been doing quite a bit of research on how to fix the stupid "43 Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time. Misfire detected in one or more cylinders 1 thru 6. (4 and 6 cyls.)" error code apparently so common for these TJ's. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs, tested the plug wires and pretty much everything else I can do or have read to do. The only other thing I can think of is replacing the valve springs. Considering my engine has over 225k it couldn't hurt anyway.

All the posts I read give various ways to keep the valves from dropping - compressed air, TDC, screwdriver, cotton rope, etc. My question is - why not just take the head off and do it that way? If my valves are as gunked up as I imagine they are, that would make it easier to swap the springs and clean the valves right? Granted, I haven't torn into this type of engine before, but I did take apart a 1965 Mustang engine once - taking the heads off wasn't that much harder than taking the rocker cover off. I'm betting there is some reason why I shouldn't though - right?
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Old 04-07-2016, 06:33 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bad John View Post
Hate to dredge up an old thread - but I've been doing quite a bit of research on how to fix the stupid "43 Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time. Misfire detected in one or more cylinders 1 thru 6. (4 and 6 cyls.)" error code apparently so common for these TJ's. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs, tested the plug wires and pretty much everything else I can do or have read to do. The only other thing I can think of is replacing the valve springs. Considering my engine has over 225k it couldn't hurt anyway.

All the posts I read give various ways to keep the valves from dropping - compressed air, TDC, screwdriver, cotton rope, etc. My question is - why not just take the head off and do it that way? If my valves are as gunked up as I imagine they are, that would make it easier to swap the springs and clean the valves right? Granted, I haven't torn into this type of engine before, but I did take apart a 1965 Mustang engine once - taking the heads off wasn't that much harder than taking the rocker cover off. I'm betting there is some reason why I shouldn't though - right?
I'd say, do it! That many miles, take the head in and have a valve job done, and have the springs replaced. It's a straightforward job. No weird issues. I've done several straight 6's and my 2.5. No issues.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:59 PM   #36
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It's tempting, but I'm not sure I want to fool with something that involved right now.

Would it be worth it to first do a compression test? Seems that if the misfire is coming from a valve seal or spring this method might not identify a problem there but it could identify if the problem is a bad piston ring etc.

Is there an easy way to test what of any valve springs are bad? I see a lot of guidance on how to replace not so much on how to test.
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:17 PM   #37
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Regardless of the hand-wringing worry expressed above, the exact procedure I described above is perfectly safe to do on an as-needed basis. That exact process has been used for many years by many experienced mechanics.

Many commonly done procedures can wreck an engine if done incorrectly. Is that to say we shouldn't do anything because it could wreck an engine if done incorrectly? Of course not.
The method works well. I use an old Windex bottle and very hot water when I've done it.

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