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Old 03-28-2014, 06:07 PM   #1
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Wandering/darting steering.....again.....

Ever since flat towing the Jeep from Indiana to Idaho, Jeep has not been the same.
It drove 100% perfect before...now issues.

So the rear driveshaft seized up after the tow, so the shop found that, and rebuilt the shaft, all Spicer joints.
I have the front shaft dropped off too, just for safety sakes. Most of the vibes gone now....

Have a Trans mount on order for good measure too.

Toe in is 1/8". Caster is about 5.5. New lower control arms front and rear, stock replacements from rock auto. Rear uppers are savvy. Tire pressure 27 psi 33" bfg at.

Jeep is wandering and darting on the highway.
It's driving like it did with a dropped Pitman and bad toe, but I fixed both those issues. Arrggg..

Going to have my wife help me do the dry steer test tonight.

Would bad bushings in front upper control arms make it handle so poorly?

Thanks
Jeff

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Old 03-28-2014, 06:47 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Shark_13 View Post
Would bad bushings in front upper control arms make it handle so poorly?
Thanks
Jeff
It could. Anything that allows the axle to move is going to effect handling. How are your ball joints?

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Old 03-28-2014, 09:10 PM   #3
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Dry steer test, track bar solid both ends, looked like tiny bit of movement on drag link/Pitman arm connection.

Will put a torque wrench on it tonight.

No play in steering shaft, input and output move in sync.

Checked rear end, track bar and everything seems solid back there too with wife jumping on bumper
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:17 PM   #4
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Interesting...
Nut on drag link/Pitman arm was able to move to next castle nut slot once torqued.

Then got a good 1/2 turn on big Pitman nut.....wth!?!

I took it back off, lock washer is in good shape. Added some blue loctite for safety, and torqued back to 180.

Will take for spin tomorrow
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:56 PM   #5
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The darting appears to be gone. Yay

Slight wandering still.....
Need to double check toe in one more time, handling like it has bad toe.....

Will check ball joints too.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:48 PM   #6
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It could. Anything that allows the axle to move is going to effect handling. How are your ball joints?
Ball joints are good, just checked them today.

Also checked toe in again for good measure, 1/8" exactly same as when I set it originally.

Tire pressure all 26 - 27.

Installed new Trans mount, seemed to take care of the slight vibes.


Running out of ideas here.....bad steering box? Would that cause wandering?
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:53 PM   #7
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Have you checked the rear axle control arms bushings and rear trackbar mounting brackets? If the rear axle is moving around it will make the Jeep wander.
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:00 PM   #8
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Have you checked the rear axle control arms bushings and rear trackbar mounting brackets? If the rear axle is moving around it will make the Jeep wander.
Rear upper ca are savvy and only a year old maybe 10K on them. Rear lowers are brand new stock replacement from rock auto few weeks ago.

Rear trackbar appears solid at both ends, I had my wife jump on the bumper while I was watching trackbar underneath. It is stock unit though, so maybe bushings are shot? Both bolts are torqued to spec I checked that when I put the new lower control arms on.
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Old 04-04-2014, 08:44 PM   #9
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It's easier to see movement, if there is any in the rear trackbar bushings, by having someone rock the back of the rig while you lay under it and watch the bushings. That's how I proved my RTB issue. I'm also pretty sure that your steering box could be the cause of the issue if it were bad. Good luck!
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:16 AM   #10
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Ball joints are good, just checked them today. Also checked toe in again for good measure, 1/8" exactly same as when I set it originally. Tire pressure all 26 - 27. Installed new Trans mount, seemed to take care of the slight vibes. Running out of ideas here.....bad steering box? Would that cause wandering?
How hard was the trans mount to change out? And where did you order it from?
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:25 AM   #11
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How hard was the trans mount to change out? And where did you order it from?
Not sure where to order it's easy though. 4 little nuts on bottom of tcase skid closer to passenger side. Then you can put a jack stand with a wood block under the oilpan to support it. Then you can put your floor jack under the tcase skid and take out the 6 frame bolts and lower it down. Or I lay under it on a creeper and do it it's not that heavy. The trans mount will be hanging from the exhaust as it has a hanger on it. Slide it off and throw a new one on. This video is handy. http://youtu.be/mIXhdAG3qaE
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:32 AM   #12
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Yep, I did it just like above, 30 min job.

I had my skid off previously, and put lots of anti seize on the bolts so everything came out nicely. If yours hadn't been off in a long time, be sure to use a little heat for good measure, spray em with pb blaster or kroil etc do you don't break the nuts welded in the frame.

I got mine from rockauto.com great prices. Be sure to search for coupon codes on the forum
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:08 AM   #13
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Not sure where to order it's easy though. 4 little nuts on bottom of tcase skid closer to passenger side. Then you can put a jack stand with a wood block under the oilpan to support it. Then you can put your floor jack under the tcase skid and take out the 6 frame bolts and lower it down. Or I lay under it on a creeper and do it it's not that heavy. The trans mount will be hanging from the exhaust as it has a hanger on it. Slide it off and throw a new one on. This video is handy. http://youtu.be/mIXhdAG3qaE
Thank you!! I'll start looking into it! One more question, why did you change the mount? Vibrations?
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:48 AM   #14
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Not sure where to order it's easy though. 4 little nuts on bottom of tcase skid closer to passenger side. Then you can put a jack stand with a wood block under the oilpan to support it. Then you can put your floor jack under the tcase skid and take out the 6 frame bolts and lower it down. Or I lay under it on a creeper and do it it's not that heavy. The trans mount will be hanging from the exhaust as it has a hanger on it. Slide it off and throw a new one on. This video is handy. Wrangler TJ 5 Speed Transmission Removal - YouTube
Actually Majnoon, the transmission mount "itself" separates from the bracket that is bolted to the transmission and has the cat bracket. That part does not need to be removed, but only the actual mount that is bolted to it...if that makes sense.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:48 PM   #15
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Yup, the exhaust bracket was separate and stayed in....

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I replaced because I was getting some vibes, and you could move the back of the Tcase easier than I thought should be.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:21 PM   #16
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Thanks a bunch Water Dog and Shark. I thought it was all one piece. Good to know. Pat I never replaced it. I took that whole thing off changing my clutch. Which is why I thought it was all one piece. never had problems with mine yet.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:51 AM   #17
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Had my tires balanced and rotated.... Bit better but still wanders a bit at highway speeds.....
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Old 08-13-2014, 10:58 PM   #18
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I adjusted the Allen screw on top of the steering box one more time, about 1/4 turn, there was slack again, which is now gone.
Also added 1/8" more toe in.

Drives perfect again. Finally!
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:12 PM   #19
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Ok, so not perfect steering....
Still wanders ever so slightly.... Enough that my buddy noticed it while driving it...

I am replacing the final set of front control arms (uppers) with some Savvy aluminum, and the bushings in the front axle too (all others are done)
Also have a Metalcloak front track bar on the way to replace the old re.... I've noticed the frame side mount move before, so kind of wondering what it does when actually driving.....
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Old 09-20-2014, 09:50 PM   #20
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New parts are here....
Had to cut old track bar into pieces, bolt snapped at axle connection.... Took some grinding finally got it off.

Got pass side upper control arm replaced and new bushing in axle... Old one literally fell out of axle housing.

Drive side proving to be a huge pain in the rear.....
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:15 PM   #21
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If push comes to shove in the rear... unbolt the lower shock and antiswaybar mounts, then jack the rear frame way up using a floor jack and 4x4 between the jack and bumper. Place jack stands under the frame for safety. The axle will droop down enough to give good access to the driver's side track bar mount.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:42 PM   #22
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Old track bar is off, no worries there.

Got the drivers side axle control arm bushing removed finally after some heat, pb blaster, and hammering with the press tightened.

New bushing does not want to go back in....
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:18 PM   #23
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Yay, bushing back in, control arm on, and new metalcloak track bar installed. Just need to center everting, set caster, and verify toe in.
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:19 PM   #24
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Old crap....

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Old 09-22-2014, 07:28 PM   #25
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All lined up, adjusted, test drove....
I think the issue is solved!

Much more stable, no darting or wandering even at 80 on the interstate.

Scary how easily the old track bar snapped off...... The new MC was so much beefier.

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