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Old 05-17-2009, 11:10 PM   #1
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Water in the distributor.

I entered a water crossing this afternoon and when I was about 5 feet from the end of it, my engine coughed out... the water was about 2 1/2 feet deep and it splashed up into my distributor cap. After waiting about 20 minutes I actually had spark again and the engine fired. It ran for a few minutes 1 or 2 cylinders down, and finally it all fired up. On the drive home my check engine light came on... I had a few questions:

How do you water-proof your distributor cap (if possible)?

Did the misfire of the engine cause the Check Engine light, like a red flag or something? -Or could this have actually caused damage of some kind and it's warning me to get it checked out.

thanks- Mike

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Old 05-17-2009, 11:16 PM   #2
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The check engine light was cause by the misfire just unhook your battery cables for a minute or two an reconnect them it will reset the check engine light. As for the water proofing of the distributor I don't know I had the same problem this weekend I busted into a creek wide open and flooded the engine bay and had a misfire for a minute. You might be able to take some high temp rtv and go around the bottom of the distributor cap that would seal it off and the rtv is easy to peal off if needed. I might try this for myself and see if it helps.

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Old 05-17-2009, 11:17 PM   #3
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Most likely the misfire triggered the check engine light.

We used to use silicone sealer to seal our distributor caps. also carried WD-40 to clear water.
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Old 05-17-2009, 11:17 PM   #4
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Is it still running like it is a cylinder down? If so pull your plugs you might have fouled out plugs. It does happen when you get water in the distributor. I carry a can of wd-40 now, so when that happens you pull the cap spray it with wd-40 and in about a minute it is working perfectly again. That also reduces the chance of fouled out plugs.

lol- guess the boards are slow tonite!!!
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:15 AM   #5
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it's now running fine. I had to let it sit and run for a while until the remaining cylinders began to fire. Is there a trick to removing the distributor cap, is it as easy as removing the two phillips head screws and just pulling it off? I've never taken one out before...
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Old 05-18-2009, 09:27 AM   #6
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Correct pull the 2 screws and the cap comes right off.
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Old 05-18-2009, 11:57 AM   #7
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back when i was running my bronco, i used either grease (from a grease gun) or wheel bearing lube. both are excellent to repel the water. all you do is put it at the bottom edge of the distributor where the cap sits.
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Old 05-18-2009, 12:06 PM   #8
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A worn distributor cap will more readily let water up inside. I'd replace it with a quality distributor cap that uses brass connections inside (cheap caps use aluminum) and apply a bead of dielectric grease around the bottom where the cap seats against the distrbutor base to keep the water out.

And the next time you or anyone around you gets water underneath the distributor cap, you can spray it with WD-40 to chase all the moisture out. Just shake the excess WD-40 out afterwards.
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:20 PM   #9
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Any quality distributor brand suggestions? While I'm at it, maybe I'll pick up some new spark plugs too. Are there any other problematic spots that are easily waterproofed?
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:23 PM   #10
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BUMP-

I need a good brand distributor and I think I'm going to replace the plugs too. I searched and it seems the regular autolite or champion plugs are the way to go? I have a 2.5L....
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Old 05-20-2009, 11:20 PM   #11
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rtv the cap on also rtv the cam sensor grommet on the distributor and then run the vent on the cap to a higher spot in the engine bay with rubber hose
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:07 AM   #12
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While I use dielectric grease to seal my distributor cap & ignition wiring and I use RTV regularly elsewhere, the LAST component I would RTV in place would be my distributor cap.
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:19 AM   #13
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RTV'ing the cap on doesn't make sense... dielectric grease would seal it almost as well, and wouldn't "glue" it on. I do like the idea of running a breather-hose from the cap to higher location. When I stalled out the other day, I could see water dripping out of that top vent...
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:01 PM   #14
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u could use the grease instead of the rtv
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 603TJ View Post
BUMP-

I need a good brand distributor and I think I'm going to replace the plugs too. I searched and it seems the regular autolite or champion plugs are the way to go? I have a 2.5L....
i would just go with mopar its not really that much money i have mopar cap rotor button and plugs and i went with summits 8.2mm wires there were like 25 shipped it was cheaper then auto zones
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Old 05-21-2009, 06:39 PM   #16
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thanks!
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:54 PM   #17
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