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Old 12-10-2013, 03:22 PM   #1
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What after the Zone 4.25"?

What do i do to the suspension after the zone 4.25" kit?

I will step up to 33" tires at the time of the zone kit. When the 33" tires are ready to be replaced i will go to 35" tires and a totaly different setup. So whatever i do now is only going to be replaced later so i dont want to go crazy but im sure i will catch up in skill to the zone kit then will want more. So what should i do to max out the stock setup after the zone 4.25" is in place

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Old 12-10-2013, 03:26 PM   #2
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Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - Ultra High-Clearance Skids The when you want to upgrade to 35s, do the 8 adjustable arms and highline fenders of your choice with Fox or ??? shocks.

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Old 12-10-2013, 04:35 PM   #3
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If the factory like setup on the tj is only good up to 12" then would adjustable control arms in the factory location/style even be worth it? I think going to a long arm kit or mabye a 3 or 4 link setup would be better right.

I just cant see putting 1000$ into new control arms to only gain so little. I know the gain would be a ton but not in relation to the gain vs value of a new setup alltogether.

Can you help me out more AOR? Please and thank you
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:48 PM   #4
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It all really depends on your goal for the upgrades. Long arm kits are really not necessary for a good performing trail rig. Long arms will give you a better ride at higher speeds and more articulation (based on geometry). But are still not a requirement for a spring lift height under 4". You can get into some semi-triangulated arms for more articuation. The MC Duroflex joints supposedly will give you more articulation due to design.

What do you want to do with it? Where do you forsee your final lift height being? Remember ground clearance is a function of the height from center line of your axle to the tread of the tire. You could run a 30" (measured height) tire on a 6" longarm (hypothetically) and still have the same ground clearance as a 3" lift. You are also limited by extended spring and shock length. You can only droop as far as the spring will go without retainers (not taking into consideration shock limits). Conversely, full compression is limited by spring rate, shock length compressed ( also measured up travel from static ride height), and interference with the body and other components as you stuff the tires. Aside from that, it would be anything hanging lower than necessary that can drag on the ground or obsticles.

So, if you want to run 35 or 37s, get some adjustable arms with flexy joints, long travel shocks, appropriate bump stops and limiting straps, as well as, some highline fenders and do some trimming. If you want to run higher than 4" spring lift go long arms. Plan well, spend wisely.

I am sure I will be corrected on whatever I have mistated above. Peeps jump in where appropriate.

Namaste,

Allen
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:30 PM   #5
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Steering, brakes, control arms (savvy/currie arms are nice especially with the Metalcloak Duroflex Joints). Tummy tuck, SYE/DC, axle shafts... there's tons you can do. Also, this arm length discussion is worthless... your common long arm kit does not have worthwhile geometry - I'd go custom if you ever start moving mounts.

AOR just gave you some excellent information, by the way.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:51 AM   #6
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The jeep will be a daily driver for the next two years after that i can do anything to it. Once its not my daily driver i want to build it to handle anything. The only limit i will have would be- must be able to drive to and from location. I dont want to trailer it to and from.

I have the ford 8.8 now. I have taken the brackets off it and put some paint on it. Its ready for whatever. What would be the max tire size for a built/locked ford 8.8? I guess ill plan from there.

As far as now i think im happy with the 4.25" lift and a new 4 wheeler. Ill buy parts as i find them on the cheap for future builds.
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
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The jeep will be a daily driver for the next two years after that i can do anything to it. Once its not my daily driver i want to build it to handle anything. The only limit i will have would be- must be able to drive to and from location. I dont want to trailer it to and from.

I have the ford 8.8 now. I have taken the brackets off it and put some paint on it. Its ready for whatever. What would be the max tire size for a built/locked ford 8.8? I guess ill plan from there.

As far as now i think im happy with the 4.25" lift and a new 4 wheeler. Ill buy parts as i find them on the cheap for future builds.
If you want to, you could go to a 37" tire. When and if you do, I would go to an Artec truss for the 8.8 and then customize your links as mentioned above.
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:07 AM   #8
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I think 37" tires will work for me.

You think the artec truss kit will handle some heim joint brackets ontop of it?
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Old 12-26-2013, 10:48 AM   #9
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Change out your OEM steering and brakes to support tires > 33".

Regear....
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I think 37" tires will work for me. You think the artec truss kit will handle some heim joint brackets ontop of it?
37s and even 35s will require quite a bit of money to run properly. Steering, brakes, gears, shafts.. to name a few areas. There's no cheap way to run a tire that big that's for sure.
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:51 AM   #11
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I think 37" tires will work for me.

You think the artec truss kit will handle some heim joint brackets ontop of it?
You can order it with the brackets, if you do not already have them at time of ordering. Make sure to give them the necessary inside demension required.
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Old 12-26-2013, 11:54 AM   #12
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Im on this site and many others each day the ends in Y. I understand the cost of this curse.

My jeeping will be a never ending life long hobby that i see being very expensive.
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:22 PM   #13
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Its been mentioned in here already, but I would focus on the SYE, tummy tuck, axles regeared, and get your 8.8 installed. Then get your brakes and steering upgraded to handle 35's.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:36 PM   #14
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Its been mentioned in here already, but I would focus on the SYE, tummy tuck, axles regeared, and get your 8.8 installed. Then get your brakes and steering upgraded to handle 35's.
My best mod so far has been the 8.8, tummy tuck and the adj. control arms. I am set up to run 35's or 7's and I will either switch to MCE or Poison Spyder fenders, or switch out the BDS 3'' coils to Currie's 4 inch when I do.


****although just to be honest, I have had 0 troubles with 4'' and 33's!!!****
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:58 PM   #15
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Im on this site and many others each day the ends in Y. I understand the cost of this curse. My jeeping will be a never ending life long hobby that i see being very expensive.
Right on, as am I. Just throwing it out there, I'm planning my build for 35s as well. It'll be a slow process for me, but well worth it.
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:27 PM   #16
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If the ultimate goal is 35s/37s, and really the only thing you would keep from the combo kit is the body lift and the MML, why would spend the money on the kit, instead put it towards steering components, or an SYE, or driveshaft? I mean yea, youll have to wait and go a while without any lift at all while you collect the parts for the 35s, but it would save you a couple bucks.

I ask because, i was thinking about getting the combo kit, but then again at one point i would want 35s/37s, so i keep thinking i should just keep collecting the cash instead.

Unless you can run 37s on the 3 inch zone springs and shocks, than ignore me haha
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:58 AM   #17
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I wanted the combo kit now for a few reasons. 1st my back shocks were just about done. On my way home from work the back right shock fell apart. I was headed home to start my install tho. the factory parts had over 150,000 miles on them.

So really it was only the coils that were not in the future plan/current needs.

Also i am still learning about the jeep and how to build it the right way. My skill level is not up to the task of 35+ tires yet. So if i take my build in steps i will have the time/money to progress into it.
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:06 AM   #18
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I have a front locker and 33" DuraTracs coming very soon. I like the idea of the the skid plate AOR linked me to. After the skid plate and knowing i have 40-50,000 miles of 33" tire to eat up whats a good mod?

I know for my 35-7" build my ford 8.8 will be a custom 4 link setup. I am still not sure what i want to do for the front tho.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:04 PM   #19
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What front axle do you currently have? Upgrading to 35-7s, a upgrade would be recommend, (so ive read) or The new Shafts (30 spline). Either way you would have to get get a new front locker?
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:09 PM   #20
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Unless you can run 37s on the 3 inch zone springs and shocks, than ignore me haha
You can actually. If you got the 4.25" combo, you could do the tummy tuck as well. For 37s you would just do aftermarket fenders/flares (of your preference) and the proper bumpstops with appropriate BS on the wheels.
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:21 PM   #21
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I know for my 35-7" build my ford 8.8 will be a custom 4 link setup. I am still not sure what i want to do for the front tho.
3-link with trackbar on the front. 4-link has additional requirements, so 3 is simpler.
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:02 PM   #22
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You can actually. If you got the 4.25" combo, you could do the tummy tuck as well. For 37s you would just do aftermarket fenders/flares (of your preference) and the proper bumpstops with appropriate BS on the wheels.
I am assuming the same is true for for 35s? or could one get away with the stock fenders?
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:33 PM   #23
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You could, but the necessary bumpstops would subtract a lot of potential uptravel. Most have 4" lift + 1" body lift.
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:09 PM   #24
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You could, but the necessary bumpstops would subtract a lot of potential uptravel. Most have 4" lift + 1" body lift.
^^^^ this

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