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Old 05-17-2008, 04:52 PM   #1
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What is this and is it dangerous to keep driving like this?

Hi there! OK - I am technically challenged and I am happy I know where to fill in the gas and how to check the engine oil

Today I pumped up the tires and noticed that something is disconnected. I took a pic of it. It looks the same on both sides. What is it and is it dangerous to drive like this until I can get it fixed??

Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2008, 05:00 PM   #2
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that is your sway bar link. i bet you notice the front end moveing alot when you do curve's and hit bump's. it will safe, but fix them soon as you can.

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Old 05-17-2008, 05:01 PM   #3
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that is your sway bar and sway bar links.... it stablizes body roll during normal street driving...

It is a common problem with those links to come apart over time. If your driving this on the street I suguest you get some new links and put them on SOON.

The part that needs replace is called a sway bar link. You can usually get them for about 25 dollars a piece.
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Old 05-17-2008, 06:36 PM   #4
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I have to give you a pat on the back for taking the time to do a walk around and asking a question you didn't know the answer to. Your find is very important to the safety of your Jeep. Yes do get that fixed as soon as you can. Again, good job on taking the time to check the Air in your Tires & keeping an eye on your fluid levels. Remember new sounds, squeeks or squeels usually mean something's up and are worthy of your time to check them out. We're here if you have questions.....
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Old 05-17-2008, 06:57 PM   #5
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Thanks for all your replies! It's always good to know what's wrong so that I can't get totally screwed over at the shop...

Have a great weekend everyone!
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Old 05-17-2008, 08:01 PM   #6
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If you do it your self you need torx bits.
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Old 05-17-2008, 08:50 PM   #7
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id recommend getting a set of disconnects.. jks makes a nice set (quicker disconnects) that way you can unbolt your swaybar when offroading..

its a great upgrade to do when you brake a stock swaybar endlink =p

i believe they are $120
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Old 05-17-2008, 10:24 PM   #8
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Many lifts come with those so if you're planning on ggetting a lift. Now is the time (good excuse for the wife)

Until you get a new one i'd recomend removing the bottom part so it doesnt get caught in the tie rod or in the spring if it swings one way or the other.
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:56 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 4.0l sahara View Post
If you do it your self you need torx bits.
Hmm, I had another look and it looks like it would be easy to replace. Other than having to have the torx bits, would I need any further special tools? Could I do it myself in the driveway? As I mentioned before, I am not very experienced, but if it is just a matter of taking off the torx bits at the bottom and removing the bolt at the top, and popping the new one in place in reverse order, I might just give that a shot. On the Quadratec site it said that the replacement is at an expert level, though...

What do you guys think?

BTW - thanks for the tip of using this as an excuse for an upgrade/lift - it's not gonna fly, though - having a 2 month old at home, all the money goes to him right now
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:00 AM   #10
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you got it they are simple.....warning start spraying the nut on the sway bar now and the torx bolt with WD-40 or other penitrating lubricant....it will help
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:09 AM   #11
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the ball joint was a pita to get out on mine.. i ended up taking out the whole swaybar and using a BFH to pop em off..

my gfs dad had to replace his stock swaybar endlinks a couple of times to get em off..

let me look out in my garage tomorrow, see if i can help you out.. ill give you one for free if you pay shipping.. assuming i find one and its still in good shape =p i replaced mine last summer with jks discos and i was cleaning out the garage today and i found the rear ones, i should still have the front ones too
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:42 AM   #12
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I think I'll try it myself. Where do you guys buy your parts? Does Quadratec sell good quality? I was looking at these:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56004_06.htm

There are no pics, but that should be what I need for my '00 Sahara...

Any other stores you guys can recommend?

Thanks again!
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:50 AM   #13
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those will work fine they will be the same as factory.....Quadratec sells great stuff...but they take forever to ship it.

you should be able to pick them up at a local auto parts store..or your local DODGE dealer.
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:38 PM   #14
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SAVE SOME CASH http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-SWA...spagenameZWDVW, YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN DISCOS
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:48 PM   #15
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Hell don't do any ofhat I just took mine off I will give you one if you paythe shipping!
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Old 05-18-2008, 01:21 PM   #16
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Hell don't do any ofhat I just took mine off I will give you one if you paythe shipping!
Cool, thanks for the offer! I have sent you a PM...

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Old 05-18-2008, 03:10 PM   #17
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The only challanging thing will be is the ball joint that connects to the anti sway bar. Many times people tighten those things way too much so they get stuck in there and cannot go out. To us as jeepers the natural instinct is to hit it with the biggest hammer you have in the garage. If it doesnt work with couple of whacks dont mess with it. Rent a pitman arm puller or something like that and press it out.
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:30 PM   #18
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start spraying the nut on the sway bar now and the torx bolt with WD-40 or other penitrating lubricant....
Never confuse WD-40 with a penetrating agent like Liquid Wrench, PB-Blaster, Break-Free, etc. as it's not a suitable substitute for any of them. WD-40 does a lot of jobs so-so, many very poorly, and one or two superbly. As a lubricant and penetrant, WD-40 is poor and short-lived at best. What does it do superbly? Chase moisture out of electrical circuits without damaging them, and flushing dirt/crud/moisture out of stuff... it's especially good at flushing mud, water, etc. out of alternators and starter motors.
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:34 PM   #19
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dont worry i dont use WD-40.. i know it's crap but good luck telling alot of ppl that. Thats what most will use regardless. I got tired of arguing about WD-40 years ago.

PB-BLASTER... thats where it's at.
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Old 05-18-2008, 03:39 PM   #20
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Here they are!
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You can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a bull's ass but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word for it!
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:01 PM   #21
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From what i know WD 40 was made to keep the moisture away from the bombs (prevent rust) back in the end of WW2.


Its made of 50% mineral spirits, ~25% CO2, 10 of other stuff and only like 10% lubricating oil.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:02 PM   #22
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From what i know WD 40 was made to keep the moisture away from the bombs (prevent rust) back in the end of WW2.
That would be correct. WD stands for "water displacement" and the 40 stands for how many tries it took to make it before the guy finally got it right, haha. And yes, it was originally used to prevent rust on missiles.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:05 PM   #23
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Alright so ironically right after i read this thread i drove over to a friends house and i noticed a popping sound whenever my jeep cornered and hit bumps or dips in the road. Looked under my jeep to investigate and odd enough the rubber bushing at the top of the link had blown out and the threaded part is bent at about a 45 degree angle. So i bought 2 new ones figuring i might as well change both while i can and noticed on my new ones that the threaded part of the link is bent about 1 to 2 degrees. is this normal or bad part??
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This is my jeep. There are many like it but this one is mine. My jeep is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my jeep is useless. Without my jeep I am useless. I must drive my jeep true. I must be better than the mud, who is trying to defeat me. I must conquer it before it conquers me. Before God I swear this creed: my jeep and myself are masters of the mud, we are the saviors of my life. So be it, until there is no more mud. Amen.
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Old 05-18-2008, 10:48 PM   #24
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and noticed on my new ones that the threaded part of the link is bent about 1 to 2 degrees. is this normal or bad part??
what do you mean bent? like taper or what? On a side note, keep the old one that's still good.
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Old 05-18-2008, 11:13 PM   #25
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Take a pic of it and post it up.
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Old 05-19-2008, 09:13 AM   #26
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its not bent. there is a ball joint there it is supposed to move
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:34 AM   #27
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The ball joint part makes sense now but the threads on one of the new links is slightly curved. It won't show up in a pic but i am assuming that it won't make a difference. However, opening up the other box with the other link isn't even the same link. It has the same shape and everything but the threaded part at the top isn't the same length and the bushing at the bottom is different and it didn't even come with the top nut, WTF???. On my jeep they are 2 of the same link not different. I lost a ton of respect for my company (advance auto parts) after this experience. The quality of our parts is crap. I also noticed one of the welds on the one link is cracked. What crap! I guess i will just go check out autozone. Sorry just had to vent there.
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This is my jeep. There are many like it but this one is mine. My jeep is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my jeep is useless. Without my jeep I am useless. I must drive my jeep true. I must be better than the mud, who is trying to defeat me. I must conquer it before it conquers me. Before God I swear this creed: my jeep and myself are masters of the mud, we are the saviors of my life. So be it, until there is no more mud. Amen.
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Old 05-20-2008, 07:41 PM   #28
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One more question: does anybody know what size the torx screw at the bottom is? I want to make sure I buy the right bit...

Thanks!
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Old 05-20-2008, 09:35 PM   #29
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t-55
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You can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a bull's ass but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word for it!
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:12 PM   #30
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Catoc just get a full set of torxs. You will need them most of the time you work on your jeep. A full set from ace hardware (lifetime replacement from what i know) costs like 15 bucks. ONE torx bit costs 5 bucks, you do the math..

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