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Old 10-26-2013, 02:46 PM   #31
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Clear something up for me: I noticed you said "twisty mountain roads I traverse regularly." Would Antirock be somewhat overkill for someone who lives in the Midwest or doesn't get out to offroad very much?
That depends on the terrain you offroad in, even if you don't wheel all that often. No matter how often you go offroad, an Antirock makes a huge improvement in stability & offroad ability if you wheel on uneven terrain that is more difficult than a fire road. If the trail is uneven enough that you're lifting tires or getting way offcamber, an Antirock makes a dramatic improvement.

But for mild offroading, an Antirock could be considered overkill by some... though it's never a bad choice for offroading. I'd certainly rather run an Antirock than simply disconnect the front antiswaybar.

And no matter what NJO claims, he is absolutely 100% wrong that my TJ doesn't handle well on even the twisty mountain roads I am drive all the time. That includes the routine emergency evasive maneuvers I've had to take over the years even when towing the trailer,

With the right shocks, you can run an Antirock set even to its loosest setting, as I do, and still have very good and very safe handling. Certainly the handling would not be good with soft mushy shocks, AS ALREADY SAID ABOVE, but with good quality shocks as also mentioned above, the Antirock is fine for a daily driver. Anyone who claims otherwise has either an agenda or simply has never driven a properly set up TJ running good quality shocks and an Antirock. I would not put up with poor handling, especially having been a sportscar fanatic for many years, and I don't put up with poor handling with my Antirock equipped TJ. Especially since I have to tow a trailer through my local mountains on a regular basis to go wheeling. To claim my TJ doesn't handle well simply because it has an Antirock is pure bull****.

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Old 10-26-2013, 03:52 PM   #32
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And no matter what NJO claims, he is absolutely 100% wrong that my TJ doesn't handle well on even the twisty mountain roads I am drive all the time. That includes the routine emergency evasive maneuvers I've had to take over the years even when towing the trailer,

With the right shocks, you can run an Antirock set even to its loosest setting, as I do, and still have very good and very safe handling. Certainly the handling would not be good with soft mushy shocks, AS ALREADY SAID ABOVE, but with good quality shocks as also mentioned above, the Antirock is fine for a daily driver. Anyone who claims otherwise has either an agenda or simply has never driven a properly set up TJ running good quality shocks and an Antirock. I would not put up with poor handling, especially having been a sportscar fanatic for many years, and I don't put up with poor handling with my Antirock equipped TJ. Especially since I have to tow a trailer through my local mountains on a regular basis to go wheeling. To claim my TJ doesn't handle well simply because it has an Antirock is pure bull****.
Jerry your full of it. I wheel with ALOT of people who use and love the antirock, but NO ONE will state in my group that it does anything to aid in on road handling. Just the opposite.

And it doesn't matter what shocks you run, your springs are more critical now at this point running a much weaker roll bar in combination with a much higher vehicle COG, not the shocks.
Post what you have on a tech board discussing performance handling......you would be laughed off after the first thread with the comments made from this thread.

If you think your jeep handles fantastic compared to one that actually is competently setup, that's your perogative. Just don't expect everyone to drink your kool aid. The Antirock is not in the same class as the stock roll bar, one a dual rate roll bar that is as stiff as the stock bar for on road use.

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Old 10-26-2013, 04:05 PM   #33
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Post what you have on a tech board discussing performance handling......you would be laughed off after the first thread with the comments made from this thread.
Uh, this is a tech board. Calm down, pull up your pants, and put away the ruler.
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:10 PM   #34
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Uh, this is a tech board. Calm down, pull up your pants, and put away the ruler.
Wrangler forum boards offer little in the way of knowledgeable "tech" beyond the "my heater core isn't blowing heat" threads, or, "which lift kit should I buy"? Actual tech talk in terms of how to really improve performance aspects of your vehicle for the duty they will perform in real deep discussion is nearly non existent in the Wrangler forums which honestly is a shame.
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #35
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:08 PM   #36
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I run antirocks on my coil over JKUR with 40" MTRs. Drove to the Rubicon trail, along with 4 other customers/friends, 550 miles each way, mountain roads. I daily drive it, go to Vegas, Reno, wherever, and would never never be afraid or regret recommending Antirocks to any customer. On road: great, off road: nothing better! Anyone that doesn't like antirocks doesn't actually own them. JKS: very good Disco, Antirock: better option if it's within your budget.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:17 PM   #37
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I vote you spend a little extra and get the currie antirock...
I agree even though it is almost 3 times as much as the discos....why replace that part with another that is gonna do the same thing?
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:36 PM   #38
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I agree even though it is almost 3 times as much as the discos....why replace that part with another that is gonna do the same thing?
JKS discos: $160, Antirock: $360
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:47 PM   #39
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I'm not into the whole argument about this vs that or what's best per sé. I will state though that not only will I acquire the antirock in the future but more importantly:

$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking. One track day in any car will surpass that significantly. A good battery costs that. A decent tire costs that, unmounted even. Just saying. Now back to your regularly scheduled argum, err debate.
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:55 PM   #40
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The thing I really like about the ar, is the fact that you don't have to dick around with anything as soon as you hit the dirt. How many of you guys just up and go screw around offroad on a whim. It is worth half the money in convenience. Its on my list of things to do
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:00 PM   #41
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$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking.
Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school."

Even in college or at my first job, $200 was a huge difference.
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:07 PM   #42
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Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school."
Where did Trendsetter75 say he has either of those issues? I don't believe he did.

We are trying to answer the OP's question and not bring in all the world's other possible scenarious right?
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:50 PM   #43
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Sorry, but I disagree (call it an "argument" if you want). $200 can be a huge difference to the folks who start their threads with "I'm on a tight budget" or "I'm in high school." Even in college or at my first job, $200 was a huge difference.
I'm not saying $200 isn't a lot of money. What I am stating is that in a recreational hobby involving a vehicle (wheeling is not a practical form of transportation) $200 is nothing.

To suggest that my statement is erroneous in a thread where the issue at hand is a $160 part that does NOTHING that can't be done with a couple of $1 yard sale wrenches in a few minutes is a pretty weak point to base an argument from. But to each their own.

OP: regardless of what you choose, and the information is here if you sift through it all, I hope you get what you want and enjoy your rig!
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:51 PM   #44
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On a completely different note, I purchased a set of Metal Cloak disconnects. I will be installing them tomorrow and will report back on my thoughts. Factory link included for comparison purposes.

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Old 10-26-2013, 09:54 PM   #45
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Do those rings act as keepers when they're disconnected?
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:01 PM   #46
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the mc ones come with a piece that you screw into the frame or inner fender to hold them.

And on ufo's behalf, what he is saying, save your money and do it right the 1st time. Make your own with $6 worth of hardware to get you by. Then save your cash until you can get better quality parts. Also $200 really is nothing compared to what you are facing later on as you build. $200 compared to an 8.8 swap to go with your big tires, plus regear and lockers. I bought my bb. Paid around 100 bux for it. Then I bought shocks, which was about $180 more. 3 months later I bought pieces to put my own 3" lift together. I could have saved that money I wasted to get what I wanted in the 1st place.

Another thing that is going to open up a whole new can of worms is usable travel with ar vs disco's. I constantly see people bragging about their coil falling out of the bucket while disco's. There is no downward force on the axle. No force=no traction. The ar can also serve as a limit strap. You might not be worried about that right now in the build, but as you build up you will.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:27 PM   #47
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I'm not saying $200 isn't a lot of money. What I am stating is that in a recreational hobby involving a vehicle (wheeling is not a practical form of transportation) $200 is nothing.
When compared to other improvements, sure. I'm just saying that some people are on a budget. Which leads me to Jerry's comment:

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We are trying to answer the OP's question and not bring in all the world's other possible scenarious right?
I've referenced many threads where I'm not the OP but still used the advice it contained.
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Old 10-26-2013, 11:57 PM   #48
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Yes, these days alot of us are on a budget. That makes the point even stronger. Save your money, pay a little more and get quality. Once you buy a pair of disco's you will see how they really are. No matter how good of a brand they are, they will still be a pita to re connect. Before anyone says anything, I have owned jks ones. Having to bounce, shake, move, push on the rig to line up gets old after awhile. Notice how all of the people reccomending the ar,are the ones that wheel alot more then some? Plus when everything gets wet and nasty its not fun. Reconnecting in a sudden downpour sucks. The beauty of the ar is the multiple settings. The ones complaining about street manners have prolly never owned an ar. As a matter of fact, who gets one, and sells it because they liked the disco's? Plus if the guy in the lowrider Honda next to you pisses you off, you don't have to get out and get prepared before you drive on his hood
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Old 10-27-2013, 06:22 AM   #49
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JKS discos: $160, Antirock: $360
It appears my thought process wasn't clear yesterday..I will blame the pain meds...I got hit in '14 JKU yesterday and have a broken collar bone.....I think the Jeep is totalled.

My statement was based on the OP's first post...that said he already had QD's......IMO QD's are all pretty much the same.....so why switch to another variation of the same thing?

If he is not satisfied with one brand IMO he should get a Currie, not replace with the same thing i.e. another set of QD's.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:06 AM   #50
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$200 is nothing in any form of Motorsports, not even recreationally speaking. One track day in any car will surpass that significantly. A good battery costs that. A decent tire costs that, unmounted even. Just saying. Now back to your regularly scheduled argum, err debate.
I agree as well $200 is a drop in the bucket in the reality of things when it comes to this hobby.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:16 AM   #51
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Yes, these days alot of us are on a budget. That makes the point even stronger. Save your money, pay a little more and get quality. Once you buy a pair of disco's you will see how they really are. No matter how good of a brand they are, they will still be a pita to re connect. Before anyone says anything, I have owned jks ones. Having to bounce, shake, move, push on the rig to line up gets old after awhile. Notice how all of the people reccomending the ar,are the ones that wheel alot more then some? Plus when everything gets wet and nasty its not fun. Reconnecting in a sudden downpour sucks. The beauty of the ar is the multiple settings. The ones complaining about street manners have prolly never owned an ar. As a matter of fact, who gets one, and sells it because they liked the disco's? Plus if the guy in the lowrider Honda next to you pisses you off, you don't have to get out and get prepared before you drive on his hood
The multiple settings on the AR are fine. But not like you can just flip a switch to change it. You can only do that with the ORO Swayloc.

Good write up on the Swayloc(this is the actuated version), and this gentleman went from an Antirock to the ORO Swayloc: SwayLOC - 1

Good quote from the last section on that article
Quote:
Happily, I can say that the 20 hours spent on the highway were very good ones. Even though we had the typical cross winds as we traveled through Northern Arizona (high desert), the highway mode of the SwayLOC kept things nice and stable. The handling was everything I hoped it would be. My buddy with his Anti-rock was behind me by a couple hundred yards and he could easily see the improved performance (compared to his setup).
As for the off-road performance, it was as though my Currie Anti-rock had never been removed. It provided the same stability that I've come to know during these past years of running the AR.


The Dealer above made a good point.........save the money, budget or not, quality and functionality in reality saves time and money in the long run.

To the OP: You already have disconnects. Don't waste money on another set. If your rig is off road mainly, look at the AR, if its a split DD/off road toy, then strongly consider the ORO Swayloc also. Its basically a refined and improved dual rate Antirock. Most people can't even tell the difference between them if the sticker isn't present.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:27 AM   #52
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$689 for the lever operated. Dang! Looks to be a sweet setup though.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #53
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$689 for the lever operated. Dang! Looks to be a sweet setup though.
I got mine for about $500 shipped from quadratec. You find sales on em here and there if you pay attn.

But hey if you don't want ANY COMPROMISE for on AND off road, then its the best ticket to get. Love mine. One of the best upgrades I made to my rig. Money well spent and spent only once.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:44 PM   #54
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ORO Sway Loc reviews I see they are more money than Curries, which I would think the Sway Loc would be better.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:58 AM   #55
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ORO Sway Loc reviews I see they are more money than Curries, which I would think the Sway Loc would be better.
I think it should be very obvious why it costs more.

Dual rate = dual bars = more parts. More parts = more $$.

"Better" is completely subjective and is a function of many factors. I run custom sway bars on both ends using Currie components and a couple custom fabricated parts. Both are single rate and my Jeep is flat out stable on and off the road.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:23 PM   #56
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I have the aluminum Currie Antirock in the front, factory sway bar in the rear.

I love the way it handles on the road. I love it so much, that I'd like to run it in the rear as well.

I cannot wait to try the AR offroad. I'm hoping to go soon and test it out.

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