Yellow engine light, & "no buS" in odometer window - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 05-29-2010, 05:30 PM
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Yellow engine light, & "no buS" in odometer window

I have a 2000 tj 4.0L auto trans. The jeep starts normally but when I turn the ignition on, the dash voltage meter never moves, (it stays below 9), about 15 seconds after starting the engine. the yellow engine light comes on, & in the digital odometer window, it changes from the current milage to; "no buS". radio and everything else electrical works fine, and the engine idles normally, & it drives normally. thanks for any help.
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Old 05-29-2010, 08:29 PM   #2
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There are a couple hundred "no bus" threads here on WF. Use the search function and look up "no bus". You will be surprised at how many people have had this same problem before you.

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Old 05-29-2010, 11:44 PM
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thanks for the no bus search advice, I tried it but no results
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:59 PM   #4
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You got no results because WF doesn't allow little words in the searching. I typed it into google and got the phonebook.

Google
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:05 AM   #5
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Mr. Clifford, try to be a little bit more helpful then just search. This isn't JeepForums

I don't actually know what to tell you about the problem but here are a few related threads. It's too past my bedtime to start sifting but tomorrow I'll crawl some more info for you.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/no-bus-50302.html
"No Bus" error & instument panel dead after installing new stereo [Archive] - 4WDH Online Community
My odometer read "no bus" - JeepForum.com
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/no-b...ing-35794.html

Apparently first check all of your fuses behind the glove compartment. If not, could be a faulty gauge cluster. Remove it and degrease with some electric degreaser (pick some up @ AutoZone or Radioshack). Do NOT use WD-40.

To remove the dash cluster, follow these instructions. Grab a Phillips head screw driver and a flat head driver.

Pry off the top bar that runs all the way across the top of the dash and has the cut out for the vin #.

Remove the three screws that hold the dash cluster in on the top.

Remove the bottom two screws holding the kick panel (the panel below the steering wheel)

Remove two screws holding in metal kick panel behind the plastic one.

Remove the screw on either side of hte bottom of the gauge cluster. The whole unit should now just pop out. Pull it out gently, and spray everything down.


Also, try disconnecting the negative battery for 10 minutes to reset stuff. Bend the pins out in the gauge cluster to make sure they're connecting properly. Could also be a crankshaft sensor problem.
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:15 AM   #6
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check for a short to the PCM and look at the crank position sensor. Those are the 2 usual culprits.
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burton160w View Post
Mr. Clifford, try to be a little bit more helpful then just search. This isn't JeepForums

I don't actually know what to tell you about the problem but here are a few related threads. It's too past my bedtime to start sifting but tomorrow I'll crawl some more info for you.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/no-bus-50302.html
"No Bus" error & instument panel dead after installing new stereo [Archive] - 4WDH Online Community
My odometer read "no bus" - JeepForum.com
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/no-b...ing-35794.html

Apparently first check all of your fuses behind the glove compartment. If not, could be a faulty gauge cluster. Remove it and degrease with some electric degreaser (pick some up @ AutoZone or Radioshack). Do NOT use WD-40.

To remove the dash cluster, follow these instructions. Grab a Phillips head screw driver and a flat head driver.

Pry off the top bar that runs all the way across the top of the dash and has the cut out for the vin #.

Remove the three screws that hold the dash cluster in on the top.

Remove the bottom two screws holding the kick panel (the panel below the steering wheel)

Remove two screws holding in metal kick panel behind the plastic one.

Remove the screw on either side of hte bottom of the gauge cluster. The whole unit should now just pop out. Pull it out gently, and spray everything down.


Also, try disconnecting the negative battery for 10 minutes to reset stuff. Bend the pins out in the gauge cluster to make sure they're connecting properly. Could also be a crankshaft sensor problem.
Ummm... in case you missed it I gave him a link to every thread about his problem. And in case you didn't notice I've been here much longer than you. That makes me very capable of dtermining the difference in wf and crapforum.
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Old 05-30-2010, 10:33 AM
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Burton, thank you. you were so helpful! I'm off to trouble shooting, I'll let know how it turns out.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:05 AM   #9
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Alright, definitely. If that doesn't work post what ya tried and I'll see if I can scrounge up some more trouble shooting procedures.

Edit

A quick look again and there is a TSB out for this error, so there is the possibility that you may still be able to get it fixed for free! TSB 08-15-99 is the code so take it to your local dealership and see what they can do.

As well, if the other steps I mentioned don't help, try pressing the tripometer button, that rubber button the the gauge cluster. If that doesn't help, then it may be your crank position sensor as GroundHawg mentioned.

Replacing the crank position sensor isn't too stressful a job, but it takes some time and some locating. The part is roughly $50 at your local NAPA. The part should then be held on by two bolts underneath your engine towards the rear. Unbolt and follow the sensor then unattach at the wiring harness with a flathead screwdriver. Swap 'em and torque the bolts around 60in/lbs.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:22 PM
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Will do, thanks again.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:44 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.CLIFFORD View Post
Ummm... in case you missed it I gave him a link to every thread about his problem. And in case you didn't notice I've been here much longer than you. That makes me very capable of dtermining the difference in wf and crapforum.
Yeah, but newbs like us don't notice/care how much longer you've been here, but we do care about attitude, friendliness and helpfulness. Most people are willing to go out of their way to help, but it seems you couldn't be bothered.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by lambdatoys View Post
Yeah, but newbs like us don't notice/care how much longer you've been here, but we do care about attitude, friendliness and helpfulness. Most people are willing to go out of their way to help, but it seems you couldn't be bothered.
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:34 PM
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I went out to move my tj (spraying bleach water on the house), and everything worked normally. no engine light, just the milage on the odometer, & the voltage meter worked fine, (stayed at 14). I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem. I'll keep an eye on it, if it happens again I'll try the tips y'all suggested. Thanks again!
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:47 PM   #14
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2000 TJ sport 4.0

The original block in my 2000 Jeep TJ Sport had a 12" crack in the side. I pulled the motor, got a donor block that was out of a 2001 Grand Cherokee. Took the block and had it machined and re-built the motor, also had the head re-done. Got the motor all done and back in the jeep and it wont start. It turns over, i turn the switch on it cycles but none of the guages work, leave the switch in on position for about five seconds and it read nobus in digital odometer and check engine light pops on. if anyone has had this issue and knows how to fix it could you please let me know, thanks.
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:06 AM   #15
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The 2000 TJ is the last year for the CCD twisted pair bus

No bus at cluster is indicating no signal from pcm to cluster on the CCD bus

Start by verifying good engine to tub ground

Should be a ground strap attacked to a bolt on underside of hood near windshield

Follow that ground strap as its other end should be attached to a bolt on the firewall

Another ground strap attaches to that bolt on the firewall and its other end attaches to the rear of the engine block

Make sure both ends of that strap from engine to firewall are clean and tight and strap is not broken

Without a good body ground neither PCM or cluster will work right but starter will still spin engine


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