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Old 08-24-2013, 12:47 PM   #1
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110v mig welder good enough for 8.8 swap?

Hey I'm looking into doing the 8.8 swap to replace the d35. I need to invest in a welder and this is the perfect excuse to get one. Im wondering if a 110v mig welder would be strong enough to burn in the new perches. I read somewhere that they had to rent a 220v to finish their swap. I have no 220v outlet accesible to me so Im just wondering if its possible to finish this swap with just a 110v either wire feed, or gas. Thanks alot guys!

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Old 08-24-2013, 12:58 PM   #2
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I bought a 110 Lincoln from lowe's. You need to run it off a 20 amp breaker. It works awesome. It is a flux core welder. I think I paid $330 with 18 months no interest. I am doing an 8.8 swap right now. Plus, I will already have the welder when I build my cage and rock sliders. I used to use a very similar welder I worked construction. I already welded my soa perches on the front axle. The welds turned out great...and I am not a professional welder.

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Old 08-24-2013, 01:03 PM   #3
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Sadly all my breakers in my garage are 15 amp. Ive read a couple people just swapped the breaker out to 20 amp and were fine but Im not sure if I want to do that. If I run a ext. cord from a 20 amp outlet in the house do you think it would still deliver enough to power the welder?
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:03 PM   #4
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You probably can get away with a Lincoln or a similar high quality welder but forget about one from Harbor Freight a hundred dollar welder will not cut It. I have a HF welder and pretty much all it is good for is sheet metal.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:05 PM   #5
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Do you have the 90 amp, or the 170 from harbor freight. I was literally just looking at them on their website.
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Old 08-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #6
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Do you have the 90 amp, or the 170 from harbor freight. I was literally just looking at them on their website.
I have one of the older blue cased models I believe it is a 90 amp model. If you can swing for a Lincoln or a Miller buy one of those it will be easier to learn to weld on those and your results will be much better, flux core welders are ok but I prefer a welder with shielding gas you get much cleaner and stronger welds with greater penetration. My best 110 welder was a Snap-on 110 unit with gas that was incredable but it wasnt cheap. My advice is spent as much as you can afford and have a welder that you can use for other things in the future. And besides that you cant hardly give a used HF welder away let alone get anything for it no resale value.
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Old 08-24-2013, 02:42 PM   #7
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Golly Gumpf . . . Just a Heads-Up . . . NOT even an option to change your 15 amp breakers to 20 amp.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:42 PM   #8
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Dano is correct. The wire for 15 amp is 14-2. 20 amp is 12-2. You will cause a fire. Also, I just finished welding my 8.8 with my Lincoln. I used a 50' extension cord out my kitchen window. Most kitchen outlets are 20 amp. The welder worked great.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:49 PM   #9
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In my kitchen I know I have 20 amp breakers. Im going to pull my outlet out in my garage and just check for the possibly that there is #12 wired in. Worst case scenario Ill run an extension cord from my kitchen.
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:32 PM   #10
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Make sure it is a heavy duty extension cord. I picked one up at sam's club for $25. It is construction grade.
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:43 PM   #11
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I have a Hobart handler 140. I run it off of a 15 amp breaker with no issues. This machine burns very good for a 120v machine. I burned in my motor mounts in one pass with some .035 flux core wire. I'm no pro at welding but a 110-120v machine will beable to burn your perches in good as long as u get a quality machine. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart......
My issue was I wasn't going to re wire stuff in my shop just to have a dedicated outlet just for my welder. That's why I went with a 120v machine
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #12
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Yeah I dont want to re wire, nor do I even know how to wire in a 20 amp line. Im going to look into those three you listed and hopefully theyll have some payment plan with 0 interest. Harbor freight is having a huge sale tomorrow and its pretty tempting to check it out.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:18 PM   #13
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the longer the extension cord and the smaller the wire in it then the less current that will be available for the welder..so use as short of a cord as possible and as large a gauge one as you can find
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:57 PM   #14
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The voltage and wire size do not matter. It is the amperage output of the machine that you need to consider. There are machines that run on 120 v but only have a 90 amp capacity output that you can buy cheap but there are machines that run on 120 that have 140+ amp output that cost a bit more. I know - I weld for a living. Do not buy a low amp machine because it will not do the job and you will regret it.
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #15
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The voltage and wire size do not matter. It is the amperage output of the machine that you need to consider. There are machines that run on 120 v but only have a 90 amp capacity output that you can buy cheap but there are machines that run on 120 that have 140+ amp output that cost a bit more. I know - I weld for a living. Do not buy a low amp machine because it will not do the job and you will regret it.
the voltage is a constant in this case 120 volts..the wire size and length of the extension cord does matter..the longer the cord and the smaller the wire then the more resistence it will have which will make less current available to the machine..yes,a 140 amp welder will weld thicker steel than a 90 amp welder but the circuit breaker and wiring that the welder is plugged into has to be able to supply the power that the welder is demanding
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:05 PM   #16
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I believe in both cases of the 90 amp and the 140 amp out put both of them still recommended to be ran on a 20 amp line. Either way Im going to be looking into a 140 amp output, and getting as thick and short of a extension cord as possible to run from my kitchen.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:16 PM   #17
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If the welder over loads the breaker it will just trip all you have to do is reset it its not a big deal if it does just turn down the heat a little I also used a 120 lincon to so my 8.8 swap welds haven't broke yet I've been wheeling about 10 times since the swap I used .030 wire
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:23 PM   #18
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I swapped both front and rear axles in my heep with a little Lincoln 120 and haven't had any problems what so ever, just make sure the metal is clean and if are worried make a few passes on whatever youre welding.
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:46 PM   #19
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If you are going to use an extension cord, make sure it is rated 20 amps and keep it as short as possible. The longer the cord, the more the voltage drop.
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:42 AM   #20
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NONE of these replies are fully correct.

The smaller the wire size and the longer the extension cord are, the MORE CURRENT it will TRY to provide for a given load. Power will attempt to remain equal across the circuit and if the smaller wire causes voltage drop, the current will attempt to rise to compensate. Also, if you leave ANY portion of the extension cord coiled up (ANY PORTION), it can cause inductive heating of the cord and melt it/start a fire under these kinds of loads EVEN IF it is correctly sized.

Voltage is NOT a constant. It can AND will be lowered at the point of use by internal resistance of wire AND current draw of the load. Volts dropped will be proportional to the current X the resistance of the cord. The larger the cord diameter (8 is larger than 10 is larger than 12 is larger than 14) The smaller the diameter of the wire, the more voltage lost for a given current. These are called I squared R losses and can be VERY significant in these kinds of situations. If you repeatedly blow a breaker your extension cord COULD be too small of wire.

You CAN but SHOULD NOT replace your breaker with a 20Amp UNLESS......A) the wire running FROM the breaker to the outlet (all of it, not just what is AT the outlet) is 12 or larger...... and B) Your outlet is ALSO rated for 20Amps.

If you have ANY doubts, contact a JOURNEYMAN ELECTRICIAN (not forum boards).... you are putting your property/family in danger not fully understanding these situations.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:45 AM   #21
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E=IxR
voltage = current x resistence
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:48 AM   #22
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And don't forget E=MC2. That ones good too
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:00 AM   #23
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And don't forget E=MC2. That ones good too
I thought MC2 was that guy that wears the funky pants
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:17 AM   #24
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I thought MC2 was that guy that wears the funky pants
I'm speechless
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:29 AM   #25
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I'm speechless
they say that there is a first time for everything......
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:09 AM   #26
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ALSO not fully correcft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
E=IxR
voltage = current x resistence

This formula works FINE in DC circuits, but, in AC circuits, impedance due to inductance and capacitance ALSO need to be compensated/taken into account.

A combination of Impedance and Resistance is the culprit when you run too small of a diameter OR coil up an extension cord. It is these impedances which cause inductive heating due to APPARENT POWER vs REAL POWER.......

THIS is why I tell people to consult with EXPERTS instead of your forum wannabe,........
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:05 AM   #27
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Here is a pic of the welds of my ruff stuff shock mounts on my 8.8. It used my Lincoln from Lowes and .035 flux core wired. Notice the heat transfer through the opposite side. This weld is going no where,
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:12 AM   #28
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Looks real good to me. Are you self taught?
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:41 AM   #29
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Here is a pic of the welds of my ruff stuff shock mounts on my 8.8. It used my Lincoln from Lowes and .035 flux core wired. Notice the heat transfer through the opposite side. This weld is going no where,
looks good..if you run a bead down the backside also it will be even stronger
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:24 AM   #30
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I am self taught. I welded a full cage when I was 19 and have been welding off and on since then on my own projects. I am 36 now.

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