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Old 07-10-2013, 07:35 AM   #1
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1993 Distributor Issues

I'm new to the Wrangler but an older wrench turning Mopar guy. I bought a 93 Wrangler 4.0/5spd with 185k and have been correcting minor issues from less than adequate repairs from the PO. Overall my Wrangler is in very decent shape for its age.

I noticed that the coil was zip tied to the motor mount. Upon further inspection I noticed the distributor cap was not not seated correctly and that the wiring harness was spliced on the distributor side both at the connecter end and on the inside. I found that the mounting hole on the distributor for the cap screw was stripped. I tapped the screw lightly and the cap seated. This was a temporary fix. I could not find where the coil mounted so I drilled two holes on the jack mount and bolted it there.

I found a NOS distributor on ebay (military surplus) for a 94-95 and after some research on this forum found that it would work in my 93 without modification. The only difference that I saw was that the new distributor had a different Hall's effect...the connector was the same.

I replaced the distributor (it came complete with cap and rotor). The Wrangler started and idled fine but when I went out on a test drive...it pinged like crazy...as if the timing was off. The distributor has a key way that only allows the distributor to mount 180 degrees so I knew it was installed correctly and not off a tooth. After researching the forum, I found that the 93 timing is controlled by the ecm. The distributor itself has a U shaped tab that does not allow any turning of the distributor once the holding bolt is in.

I started looking at other possible reasons for the pinging and lack of power. I found that there were two vacuum line that were dry rotted and/or cracked. One was the line to the fuel pressure regulater and the other one was near the firewall near the battery (but not the map sensor). I disconnected the battery to reset the ecm and then took Wrangler out for a test drive. Wow, the power was amazing...so much so that my test run ended up being 50 miles (I was elated...). I stopped for ice cream and upon getting back on the road...the pinging returned!

I pulled over and checked the vacuum lines again and they were fine. Started the Wrangler and the pinging was still there with light throttle. I disconnected the battery to reset the ecm and the pinging was still there. At this point I'm scratching my head...because those were the only things I had done to fix the issue. So I decided to drive home with this apparent lack of timing. I started it up and the pinging was gone...ran strong all the way home. My Dad always said..if you didnt fix it..its still broke...even if it seems to have fixed itself.

Since then...the pinging will come and go. I can tell as soon as it fires up and I give it light throttle. When it does this...I shut it off and restart until it starts and have no ping. Sometimes it takes 4 or 5 restarts but once it starts with no ping...I can drive it 100s of miles with no issue. I'm puzzled...is it the ecm...is it a bad fuel pump...is it a bad coil...is it some sensor sending bad info to the ecm (no codes).

Help! I dont want to start throwing parts at it...that is costly. Sorry for the long post...

Thanks
Allan


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Old 07-10-2013, 07:44 AM   #2
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OK so the first thing I would check is did the previous owner do the nutter bypass on this vehicle. If so then your timing will need to be adjusted. It sounds like someone along the way did the nutter bypass and you or someone else has probably reset the timing to factory?

If so research nutter bypass on the web and then if you have a timing light reset the timing to about 8degrees BTDC the 8 is a rough estimate could be 10 what ever makes your engine run smoothly.

Easy way to check if nutter has been done look at ignition control module under the radiator overflow and look if any wires have been spliced namely the orange and purple wire.

then let us know what your timing is set to.

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Old 07-10-2013, 08:19 AM   #3
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Does the Nutter bypass apply to a FI 4.0?

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Old 07-10-2013, 10:21 PM   #4
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:44 AM   #5
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Ok...I have read a lot of articles on the Nutter bypass and it appears to only apply to carbed 4.2's.

Any other suggestions?

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Old 07-12-2013, 07:07 AM   #6
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Does the 93 have a knock sensor?
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Old 07-12-2013, 07:51 AM   #7
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sorry thought yours was a carb'ed engine sorry my fault
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:30 AM   #8
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I just checked and there is a part listed for a knock sensor at Advance Auto Parts. I will call them to order it after I see if I can locate it on my engine.

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Old 07-14-2013, 07:08 AM   #9
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I looked and saw nothing that looks like the sensor pictured for the sensor. I did look under the Wrangler and found two sensors that were not hooked up. Both were on the left (driver side), one was right above the motor mount with a pig tail...the other was below that at bottom edge of the block right above the oil pan.

At first I thought ok here is the problem all I have to do is connect these and/or replace them if they are bad. BUT...I found no orphaned connectors!

At this point I'm convinced that my engine has been replaced.

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Old 07-14-2013, 07:50 AM   #10
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Could the CPS cause these issues? I looked at it and the AC drain was dripping water directly on it..and has been from the looks of it. I tried to reposition the drain but it is only about 1/4 inch long. I got a piece of tubing and inserted it into the drain to divert the water away from the CPS.

I may replace it now to see if there is any improvement.

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