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2.5 jeep lifters

11K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Watson1970 
#1 ·
Has anybody had good luck just replacing the lifters on there 2.5? I do drive it a lot and it's got a 119,000 on it. Iv only had it a few months and it's been doing it since iv had it, so I don't know how long it's had this problem. Really don't won't to stick a lot of money in it but just wondering how it will do if I just do the lifters ?
Any body had experience ?
 
#7 ·
if it aint broke dont fix it. every dakota and jeep 4banger i heard had some ticks and thunps but have ran 100-150k more miles. Just rebuilt my 4 banger it had 150k or hard hard miles turning stock gears, 35's, and drinking pints of muddy water. They tend to start blowing oil out the dipstip tube and oiling your entire undercarrige and windshield when they need internal work.
 
#9 ·
You need a lifter removal tool. They usually aren't bad just a combination of wear on the rocker arms pushrods and valve stems.

First to make sure everything is oiling correctly run 1 quart of transfer fluid for a couple hundred miles and do your normal oil change. Or

Remove the valve cover and start let it idle and make sure all the rocker arms show evidence of oiling correctly may have one that has a clogged oil passage if so replace the rocker and pushrod.


If it's loud and won't go away the lifter may be bad or a worn valve stem your choice parts or a full valve job.

These Jeep engines are notorious for valve train rattle even with a fresh overhaul and all new parts they make a little noise
 
#10 ·
I replaced all the lifters without a problem except for the farthest one against the firewall. Good luck with that one. Due to the angle and how close you have to get to the firewall I was unable to remove the lifter with the removal tool. I used a magnet and after several failed attempts, I was able to get the lifter back into its original location. The new lifters fixed the ticking and my Jeep runs fine with 144,000 miles. Good luck!!
 
#12 ·
To get the rear-most lifter out, fold the hood completely back until it rests on the windshield, then remove the MAP sensor to gain a straight-shot access.

It took me an entire day to do the process, but I'm extremely picky and organized. I also used engine assembly lube on all the parts, ( I replaced the rocker-arms, bridges, pivots, and push-rods as well, so it took me longer ).

Do you have a lifter tool btw? You'll need one. A magnet will magnetize the lifter, causing metal particles to collect inside, which defeats the purpose of changing them. I rented mine from Auto-Zone. If you have the tool you're less likely to drop them on the way in and scuff them, so do it the right way and get the tool lol.
 
#13 ·
Thanks, I got it don't last night, the lifters tool is a must. Took about 2-3 hrs. I should have just done that to begin with rather than all the money I spent playing with oil thickness and additives. I hope if somebody else reads this in preparation for their job that they take this advice. It's a easy job. Just prime and soak your bed lifters and clean the old rods before assembly. Thanks everybody for the help and info
 
#15 ·
Did it fix your rattle? I did a lifter job on my 2.5 and it still rattled. I eventually swapped the motor which finally got rid of the noise.
 
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