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Old 03-19-2011, 10:14 AM   #1
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2.5" Lift Dilemma

Informational overload
The OME looks nice
The Pro Comp looks cheap
The RC seems problematic
The Rubicon seems Nice (but I am concerned about lack of support and replacement parts)
We will be replacing shackles and steering damper also
Running 31's now 32's later

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Old 03-19-2011, 10:53 AM   #2
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I personally went with OME. The only other one worth considering is Rubicon Express, but from what I have seen, the YJ kits are not available at any of the dealers and the company is shut down for the time being. If you are gonna go with the Rough Country ride quality, you might as well get the 4" lift for the same money. OME is expensive, but it is a quality suspension system (not at all the typical lift kit quality) and worth the price.

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Old 03-19-2011, 11:14 AM   #3
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I personally went with OME. The only other one worth considering is Rubicon Express, but from what I have seen, the YJ kits are not available at any of the dealers and the company is shut down for the time being. If you are gonna go with the Rough Country ride quality, you might as well get the 4" lift for the same money. OME is expensive, but it is a quality suspension system (not at all the typical lift kit quality) and worth the price.
Thank you for your feed back
What else did you need to complete the install and insure no issues?( vibration, sway bar stuff,shackels, brake lines, ect.... )
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:35 AM   #4
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I went overkill with mine... I did it tossing around the idea of a futre SOA conversion, which remains a possibility. I have 3/4" lift shackles with the OME 2.5" light spring and shock set. OME urethane bushings, an AA SYE, CV rear drive shaft, extended brake lines front and rear. No track bars, custom extended sway bar disonnects, urethane sway bushings and a drop pitman arm. Currently around 3.5" of lift, and rides like a Caddy on 31" BFG AT's

Really for a straight 2.5" lift you only need the springs, shocks, and to simply drp the mount for the stock brake lines. The OME kit comes with TC drop spacers, but many with a 2.5" lift are fine without them
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Old 03-19-2011, 09:23 PM   #5
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Does anyone else have experance with OME 2.5" lift?
which track bars would be best?
which u bolts?
Do i need new plates?
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:44 PM   #6
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i don't know about OME but with RC I needed longer lines and I don't think 1" longer shackles did that much of a difference. If you go with extended lines definitely put the stainless steel braided ones. I did need a t-case drop but by far hoping to get away with throwing new u-joints on my drive shaft (however the right way would be to put SYE and CV shaft to take care of future potential issues). drop pitman arm is a consideration but OEM works ok so far. I put a set of quick disconnects on the sway bar and have no track bars. By far it is ok but I want to see how it is going to do on the highway.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:57 PM   #7
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i don't know about OME but with RC I needed longer lines and I don't think 1" longer shackles did that much of a difference. If you go with extended lines definitely put the stainless steel braided ones. I did need a t-case drop but by far hoping to get away with throwing new u-joints on my drive shaft (however the right way would be to put SYE and CV shaft to take care of future potential issues). drop pitman arm is a consideration but OEM works ok so far. I put a set of quick disconnects on the sway bar and have no track bars. By far it is ok but I want to see how it is going to do on the highway.
Hey Alex,
Which disconnects did you use?
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:15 PM   #8
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Have TJ so not sure how relevant it is for you-replaced steering stabilizer at same time lift was installed, all parts OME love the ride and the "feel" of the steering now. Well worth every penny over stock-can not speak to quality or ride of any other lift-but don't see how it can be better than the ome?
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:40 PM   #9
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Hey Alex,
Which disconnects did you use?
RC. They come for 4-6" but the middle portion is a tube so I'll have to cut it to the size I need and drill new holes. I'll do a short writeup with pix for it later.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:43 PM   #10
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Have TJ so not sure how relevant it is for you-replaced steering stabilizer at same time lift was installed, all parts OME love the ride and the "feel" of the steering now. Well worth every penny over stock-can not speak to quality or ride of any other lift-but don't see how it can be better than the ome?
I'm fine with RC 2.5". I though it was supposed to be much bumpier so I'm surprise it is relatively comfy. I cant judge though 'coz it is my first Wrangler and I didn't get a chance to drive any other either.
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Old 03-20-2011, 10:39 PM   #11
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Still need to order lift tommorow
PB Blasted everthing twice, Now it rides better, lol, must unfroze some stuff.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:23 AM   #12
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I have the RC 2.5" with 1" shackles. I love the RC ride and feel. Much better than Pro Comp IMO. If you are doing the lift yourself be prepared that a floor jack and 4 jack stands are still not enough. I did the front first and then could not do the rear due to lack of an adequate lifting device. The new ubolts go on like a breeze using your existing plates. The other snag I ran into was getting the bushings and sleeves into the ends of the leaf springs. A little tight for my liking. If you do go with new shackles, make sure you get greasable ones. It makes a big difference, IMO.
I had to drop the tranny case 1" and shim the drive shaft. My brake lines were fine. I did remove the front traction bar (rear was already removed). I cannot tell any difference with it removed. i have driven up to 65mph with no problems. In fact, it drives better.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:20 PM   #13
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@nurcebuck:
You had to shim the rear end on top of those it originally comes with?
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:40 PM   #14
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Yes. Each YJ is different. I have had some with lifts of up to 4" w/o having to do any drive line mods. However, whoever owned this jeep before me had rebuilt the tranny and adjusted the drive line several times. I was actually kinda surprised that I need the shims but it took care of the vibes and shutter.
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:16 PM   #15
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We PB sprayed everthing again today Except TC
I guess I need to drop the guard first
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:52 PM   #16
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When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already ). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:04 AM   #17
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When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already ). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL

Being normal is just crazy!
which inner bolts? where?
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by MYKIDS95YJ
which inner bolts? where?
The ones that mount the springs to the frame directly not through shackles. they're located closer to the t-case
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:37 AM   #19
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I have the RC 4" on mine, for the price it works. The install as mentioned was more about the old rusted bolts on the jeep. I had to cut out the spring bolts on the inner mounts on both sides.. 4" for 5" inch cut off wheel works wonders. Pitman had to be cut off too. Over all for the price it works well. I ditched both the front and rear trac-bars. I will be adding long front brake lines soon.
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Old 03-22-2011, 06:59 AM   #20
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When replacing springs get ready for a big war with the inner bolts, possibly rotted frame/skid right where they come together. If you will go as far as changing lines get ready to change steel lines as they're more likely than not to brake (unless you changed them already ). Just talking out of my recent experience installing 2.5" RC SL
Yep, the right side of a Jeep YJ seems to be the worst. However, all of the inner leaf spring points had to be cut or torched out. It seems the inner sleeve fuses with the bolt and bushing. Nasty complication but nothing big if you have the right tools. It was the roughest part of the install. IMO.
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Old 03-22-2011, 08:16 AM   #21
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...
It seems the inner sleeve fuses with the bolt and bushing. Nasty complication but nothing big if you have the right tools. It was the roughest part of the install. IMO.
True. We were torching it while trying to spin them with the impact and used a heavy duty air hammer to knock it out when it finally did. In any case a combination of a GOOD torch, an impact, a heavy duty air hammer, and a lift helps to make it a 20 min removal (I'm referring to inner bolts)

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:37 PM   #22
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True. We were torching it while trying to spin them with the impact and used a heavy duty air hammer to knock it out when it finally did. In any case a combination of a GOOD torch, an impact, a heavy duty air hammer, and a lift helps to make it a 20 min removal (I'm referring to inner bolts)

Being normal is just crazy!
they dont look tough....
I sprayed everything again
OME 2.5, OME shackels, and stering damper shhiped today
I do not have an Impact gun
I do have a torch and grinder with a cutting wheel
weather turned bad again
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:41 PM   #23
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Great to hear you went with OME... You'll love it.
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Old 03-24-2011, 06:07 AM   #24
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they dont look tough....
That's the point. You underestimate those until its too late and your jeep is half way apart

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-24-2011, 07:06 AM   #25
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That's the point. You underestimate those until its too late and your jeep is half way apart

Being normal is just crazy!
60mg is right. Don't underestimate those bolts. Many people think just because they are turning, they will come out. I sprayed everything 3-4 times with penetrating oil and loosened the bolts (or so I thought). I started the lift and BAM! all of the sudden I spent several hours on ONE BOLT. Just be prepared!!! Have a torch and a cutting tool. Good luck!!
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:59 AM   #26
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60mg is right. Don't underestimate those bolts. Many people think just because they are turning, they will come out. I sprayed everything 3-4 times with penetrating oil and loosened the bolts (or so I thought). I started the lift and BAM! all of the sudden I spent several hours on ONE BOLT. Just be prepared!!! Have a torch and a cutting tool. Good luck!!
I am taking note! I will be ready for war!
Sounds like I will need new bolts. Shouldnt those also be greaseable?
The OME shackels will cover the very front and back.
Any sugestions
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:20 PM   #27
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Get the greasable if you can. Otherwise just get replacements. I'll check if I have any from my partout

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-24-2011, 04:29 PM   #28
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60mg is right. Don't underestimate those bolts. Many people think just because they are turning, they will come out. I sprayed everything 3-4 times with penetrating oil and loosened the bolts (or so I thought). I started the lift and BAM! all of the sudden I spent several hours on ONE BOLT. Just be prepared!!! Have a torch and a cutting tool. Good luck!!
Are you guys talking about just getting the nut off?
or the bolt out?
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Old 03-24-2011, 05:52 PM   #29
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The bolt out. Nut off is the easy part

Being normal is just crazy!
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Old 03-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #30
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The bolt out. Nut off is the easy part

Being normal is just crazy!

ok
(Earlier, I went out and got the nuts off both the drivers side inner spring mounts, it took like 5 min. I was wondering! )
the track bars look like they will be tough!
I do not see greasable replacment bolts for sale online
I think i will work my way around cleaning, looseing, and retighting bolts to get ready, so when we install, it will go fast

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