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Old 11-10-2013, 04:01 AM   #121
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Just make sure you swap out your sensors and use your existing ones. There is one sensor that is called the idle air control. It has 2 screws to sensor and 4 screws to the housing that holds the housing to throttle body. Its that housing you need to take off the 4.0L and put your 2.5L housing on the 4.0L throttle body. They are actually labeled 4.0L and your existing one is labeled 2.5L, of course. So bottom line you need the 2.5L housing on the 4.0L throttle body, along with all your 2.5L sensors. The housing does have tamper proof torx screws on it. You can pickup a small set at most auto parts store. Be sure to disconnect your batteries negative cable while you doing the swap. After you all done, hook your battery back and let your rig sit there and idle for about 10 to 15 minutes so that your pcm starts learning new air/fuel ratios. It will idle high at first start up, dont panic. Your RPMs will settle down after a few minutes and sould idle back to normal.

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Old 11-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #122
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Ok good to know! I also plan on putting on a header and fall exhaust plus the 19 lbs injectors. Should I do all that first then restart it or one step at a time and crank it? Just want to make sure it's all done right and still runs the same until I put the power to it.

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Old 11-10-2013, 09:09 PM   #123
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Ok good to know! I also plan on putting on a header and fall exhaust plus the 19 lbs injectors. Should I do all that first then restart it or one step at a time and crank it? Just want to make sure it's all done right and still runs the same until I put the power to it.
As far as the throttle body swap, yes do all sensor swap, reinstall once throttle body is all put together and complete and then restart. O yes I did not ask you if you plan to bore out the manifold opening to match the bottom of 4.0L throttle body. It would be best if you did for maximum air flow from the 4.0L TB. The bottom of the 4.0L throttle body has a 55mm dia bore. If I am correct the 2.5L manifold bore is ? well I just forgot but it is smaller in diameter. I know it sounds like a pain in the neck, but once you do it, its not as hard as it sounds. I marked the top of my intake manifold with black marker using a gasket in order not to pass that point. I believe the gasket is 60mm dia which is to big for the bottom of your TB. You only need 55mm or a hair bigger. I used a cordless drill with rough sanding disk/drums and round and round I went. Trying to keep the bore uniform. Finishing it off with a finer grit disk and finally reaching my desired size. O yes be sure to stuff the intake runner openings with damp rags to prevent and shavings from intering to deep or falling into your intake. After reaching desired bore size and removing rags use a shop vac and double, triple check and make sure the is no shavings left. Clean it real good. You can also set throttle body on top with a couple of bolts, hold throttle plate open and look down its throat to see and make sure there is no exposed manifold lip showing. Or to see if it is uniform. Also you will be able to see if you missed and left any high spots that need further sanding. Sounds like fun but its worth it.
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:23 AM   #124
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save urslf all the hassel with with this shit an move down to 31s 0r 32s! will end your problems.

Yeap....save the clutch too…..bought my 3rd Wrangler with 35” tires…what a joke going down the HWY in 3rd gear… or 4th floored if there was tail wind.

I've tried most of the mods but at the end of the trail it's a 4 banger...
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:03 PM   #125
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Well I swapped my IAC housing the day after I did the TB swap but, no luck fixing the high idle, turns out main problem (intake manifold leak)! Also, I know this isn't the proper way but, if you need a TB gasket and can't find one close by you and your Jeep is your DD like mine, I just used gray RTV (any color will be fine but, I get gray for free at work lol) on the TB and IAC housing with no leaks but, it's a little tough to get off once it dries cause I had to take my TB back off to get one of the torx on the IAC housing that was trying to strip! Also, I believe it's a T-25 tamper proof torx if anyone wants or needs the size! Didn't bore mine but, may do so today!
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Old 11-11-2013, 07:42 PM   #126
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Well I swapped my IAC housing the day after I did the TB swap but, no luck fixing the high idle, turns out main problem (intake manifold leak)! Also, I know this isn't the proper way but, if you need a TB gasket and can't find one close by you and your Jeep is your DD like mine, I just used gray RTV (any color will be fine but, I get gray for free at work lol) on the TB and IAC housing with no leaks but, it's a little tough to get off once it dries cause I had to take my TB back off to get one of the torx on the IAC housing that was trying to strip! Also, I believe it's a T-25 tamper proof torx if anyone wants or needs the size! Didn't bore mine but, may do so today!
Hang in there, It took me trail and error trough time to get my lil rig running at optimum performance. I think I have done my throttle body about a dozen times, one had a hair line crack, one I bored it out to big and missed it all up, went beyond the throttle plate. Once I had a big O 62mm and did not suit my needs, I was racing all over the place, spending all kinds of money on gas. It was fun but expensive. But through the years I finally got my lil 4 banger tweek out pretty good between economy, daily driving, reliable, and power on tap. I can keep up with any stock 4.0L. Power to wieght ratio. The last mod I did was a 45,000 volt coil where I was able to gap my NGK plugs at a moderate .039 along with its 8mm accel wires, brass cap and rotor. Yea about the only down side to take is if I drive hard to much I might where my plugs out a lil quicker. Not much. O I did replace my camshaft sensor which is known as the distributor pickup plate. It sets right under the distributor cap and only takes 5 minutes to replace. I keep an eye on the where and tear on my cap and rotor, along with keeping them clean for good electrical contact. I was suprised with the coil and wires/plug upgrade what a day and nite different there was. Passing Power and increased MPG. Of course that goes hand in hand with all the other mods. It all works in sync. You gotta find that sweet spot with air/fuel/spark. But as far as a 2.5L you will be suprised what kind of power you can squeeze out of it. I feels so good. Keep up the work and dont give up. That lil 4 banger is a good motor and fairly reliable.
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:18 PM   #127
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Haha, thanks man, well I got the intake/exhaust gasket in this evening and no leaks! after it gets hot and I cut it off and crank it up it still idles up to about 1500 for a second I'll know for sure tomorrow when I go to work cause usually when I slow down and press the clutch in it'll jump up to about 2k-2500 RPM's! Kinda thinking it's time for an IAC but, I'll see! I want to do some of the other 2.5 mods but, they will come in time! I enjoy tinkering on my YJ though my mom and girlfriend complain sometimes & sometimes I just don't feel like it as I work 5-6 days a week as a mechanic so, sometimes you just want a break! lol
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:07 AM   #128
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Haha, thanks man, well I got the intake/exhaust gasket in this evening and no leaks! after it gets hot and I cut it off and crank it up it still idles up to about 1500 for a second I'll know for sure tomorrow when I go to work cause usually when I slow down and press the clutch in it'll jump up to about 2k-2500 RPM's! Kinda thinking it's time for an IAC but, I'll see! I want to do some of the other 2.5 mods but, they will come in time! I enjoy tinkering on my YJ though my mom and girlfriend complain sometimes & sometimes I just don't feel like it as I work 5-6 days a week as a mechanic so, sometimes you just want a break! lol
Yep as a mechanic I could only imagine needing a break. Glad to hear you have some experience. Keep me/us posted on your progress. Get rest.
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:21 AM   #129
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You guys ever thought about adding weight to the flywheel?

Adding Flywheel Mass for Engine Torque
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Old 11-12-2013, 12:47 AM   #130
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You guys ever thought about adding weight to the flywheel?

Adding Flywheel Mass for Engine Torque
I remember looking at that a few years back. Something about it does not allow the engine to rev down to fast or something like that. Its like rolling mass to the engine. I never did hear any feedback from anyone on that. I know that tri county gear use to have one on there old yellow YJ rock crawler back in the day. Do you have one.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:39 AM   #131
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You guys ever thought about adding weight to the flywheel? Adding Flywheel Mass for Engine Torque
I've seen another thread on here somewhere about adding a high inertia flywheel. Apparently it's night and day, but that's only when it cones to crawling
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:34 AM   #132
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will find out very soon how the inertia ring works
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #133
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Well no high idle now after warming up! it idles up to 13-1400 when you first crank it but, then it drops down to 1000 or a hair lower! I'm guessing that's either normal, a very small vacuum leak, or the IAC ready for retirement! Either way I'm happy no more exhaust ticking & no more stopping at a stop sign & trying to take off with it idling at 2-2500 RPM's, so I'm happy!!
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:35 PM   #134
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Well no high idle now after warming up! it idles up to 13-1400 when you first crank it but, then it drops down to 1000 or a hair lower! I'm guessing that's either normal, a very small vacuum leak, or the IAC ready for retirement! Either way I'm happy no more exhaust ticking & no more stopping at a stop sign & trying to take off with it idling at 2-2500 RPM's, so I'm happy!!
Yes Sir thats about the right idle, I believe mine idles a hair above 900 RPMs once its warmed up. Well glad to hear its good for you. I removed and cleaned my IAC senser with cleaning spray. Cleaned it real good to, mine has a black plastic sleeve over the pental part of it, which covers the lil spring on there. I sprayed and wiped and that plastic sleeve started to move freely back and forth. I was a lil sticky. I was surprised how much carbon build up came out from under that sleeve. It seemed a bit sticky at first. Well in the end it did seem to help it idle just that much smoother, not perfect but close.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:40 PM   #135
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O yea thats right it was a inertia ring which is better for crawling, your right. It was for keeping the engine and RPM from bogging down at crawl speeds or something like that. Keep us posted if you get one installed.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:24 PM   #136
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I plan to put a 4.0 tb on my 2.5 and am thinking about a tb spacer would I use a 2.5 tb spacer or a 4.0 spacer? Also have read about injectors what's the pros and cons on those?
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:42 PM   #137
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You should bore the intake out to match the 4.0 tb opening also for best results. It pretty easy to do once you get started. I hear the tb spacer is useless, let me know how that one works for ya. The 19lb injectors have 4 holes the gas sprays from rather than just one. Giving better atomization of the fuel. Some say they deliver slightly more fuel also. Well worth the upgrades doing these mods and others IMO!!
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:05 PM   #138
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Well there has been a long debate on spacers work or they do not ? I would have to say the debate is 50/50. As for me I believe they work. If they did not work how could a bigger throttle body work. Your playing with air, or lets say altering air. The amount coming in or the force it comes in, cooler air is better, all that. Yes there is no fuel injected at the throttle body, there is air and of course you are altering air. More air, cooler air, faster air/charge, the speed and force the air is intering manifold. On the basic side of things why do longer runners on intake manifolds create more torque. And yes torque equals horse power. Bottom line, my opinion colder intakes is good, allowing more air in to engine, bigger throttle bodys also allowing more air to enter intake manifold. Also throttle body spacers is like running longer intake runners creating more torque. Now do I think that a screw design on the inner walls of a throttle body is gonna do some magical spinning in a horizontal direction is gonna do much ? I have to say not really. Just like electricity, air like to take the path of least resistants. So I say go for it, you will be suprised what your 4 banger power plant is capable of. Thats once you find your sweet spot. And remember not one mod is gonna work miracles, they all have to work together, right ?
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:52 PM   #139
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I plan to put a 4.0 tb on my 2.5 and am thinking about a tb spacer would I use a 2.5 tb spacer or a 4.0 spacer? Also have read about injectors what's the pros and cons on those?
The 2.5 spacer and the 4.0 spacer (at least airraid) are the same pt #.

I did an airraid spacer on my 99 4.0 tj (all stock) and it definitely woke things up.

We recently started a 95 2.5 YJ project, did 4.0 tb, Cat delete with FM 44, E fan and Bosch injectors. Did them one at a time and each helped. The start to finish is an amazing difference. Last we installed an Airraid spacer I found here for 25 bucks, Not sure BC all we had done helped so much! Hope this helps.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:39 PM   #140
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About how much is it for the Bosch 19lb injectors? And with all that done have you noticed better fuel mileage? I know I know it's a jeep and it's never gonna get good mileage but just curious
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:30 PM   #141
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I just recently swap out my accel coil which is rated at 42,000 volts. I installed new coil by CRT performance which is rated at 45,000 volts. Changed out my accel wires to new ones and also installed new cap and rotor. Gapped my NGKs to a moderate .039. Some say its equal to a good tune up and the gains you feel is what you slowly lost through wear and tear. I believe this is true and also believe power gains can be achieved by a hotter spark and a bigger gap which also increases MPG. Feels real good and very responsive with quicker starts. Faster take offs and reaching and holding higher RPMs for a longer duration due to the coils turn ratios and secondary volts. You gotta make sure you are igniting all that added cold air/ intake along with that bigger throttle body. AIR / FUEL / SPARK !!!
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:50 PM   #142
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About how much is it for the Bosch 19lb injectors? And with all that done have you noticed better fuel mileage? I know I know it's a jeep and it's never gonna get good mileage but just curious
I bought the injectors at the Jyard and pd 15 each, (60.00) have seen them online for 90 for a set of 6 reconditioned :/. I couldnt quote mileage. I think 15-19 is probably it in a Wrangle':, there little fun boxes to play with. No aerodynamics, good bit of weight.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:06 AM   #143
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Are those 4 pental or single hole injectors. I myself have thought about installing 4 hole injectors, but not sure if it will be worse or better on MPG. Man its hard to gain Power and MPG at same time.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:04 AM   #144
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I did the injector, 4.0 throttle body and electric fan set up. I got very marginal hp gains but did gain around 2 mpg. With the mpg gains i have about paid for 2 of the upgrades already, maybe by the spring I will be able to say all 3.
Don't do them if you are expecting some beast to be awoken in the 2.5, the only thing I've really noticed power wise is that I don't have to downshift as much when going up hills.
With all that said when I bought my injectors I bought them from a v8 mustang, my jeep only needed 4 so I still have 4 for sale if anyone is interested?
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:46 PM   #145
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Well that sounds good to me, a couple more miles per gallon, and yes I am a person that can feel 1/2 a HP gain in my little 4 banger. Man wish I had some extra money right now to try some injectors. I just spent a few bucks on all new complete brakes, new exhaust manifold, and a complete new distributor. Now that I got my jeep running like a fine tuned clock I need to save for some new meats. Its amazing how it cost just to keep what you got running. Ah man just had a brain thought, I need money for gas.
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Old 02-01-2014, 04:58 AM   #146
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Lightbulb coil swap

Did that coil swap to a 750cc suzuki motorcycle back in the day.. I remember huge gains. thinkin your right about this one.

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I just recently swap out my accel coil which is rated at 42,000 volts. I installed new coil by CRT performance which is rated at 45,000 volts. Changed out my accel wires to new ones and also installed new cap and rotor. Gapped my NGKs to a moderate .039. Some say its equal to a good tune up and the gains you feel is what you slowly lost through wear and tear. I believe this is true and also believe power gains can be achieved by a hotter spark and a bigger gap which also increases MPG. Feels real good and very responsive with quicker starts. Faster take offs and reaching and holding higher RPMs for a longer duration due to the coils turn ratios and secondary volts. You gotta make sure you are igniting all that added cold air/ intake along with that bigger throttle body. AIR / FUEL / SPARK !!!
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:05 PM   #147
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Yep I pretty happy with all my current mods under the hood. I do like my coil at 45,000 volts with the accel 8mm wires and NGKs gapped at .039, Whats wierd is if I gap any bigger I seem to lose a little power, and any smaller she seems a lil less responsive. So in my opinion just the right spark does make a difference. I know many will diagree and say its equal to a good tune up. I still think I could probably squeeze out more by indexing my plugs. Thats where you get washers on your plugs so that the electroid faces the combustion camber all in sync. But I think I will leave as is. You know how it goes you what a little more as you make a change and you end up losing that sweet spot. Right now I have been into my CB. Just bought a new 4 ft firestik and been finding the right spot to mount it, wire it just right. Then through some research come to learn there is so much involved in tweeking it out for best output. I mean there is things like which way to run your power cord, the right way to run ground wire, how to reduce engine noise coming through radio and enough to make your head spin. Bottom line is a CB antenna well pickup noise from alternator, spark plug wires, distributor, any elctrical components. A CB is a old fashion low tech system that picks up all kinds of radio waves. Anyway I having fun trying to make it sound as clear as can be , for what its worth. Hey there I go again talking to much. Gotta go, take care and Happy 4 Wheeling.
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Old 02-05-2014, 06:07 PM   #148
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You can't get too crazy with the CPS or it'll ping. But you can't make it go that far without grinding the bell housing down & you can't do that without pulling the motor (at least on the Dodge Magnums). I'm not sure about the 2.5's. Haven't look at it yet.

On a side not, I pulled the 2.5 TB & installed a 4.0 TB tonight. All I can say is HOLY CRAP! I have been swapping TB's on motors for 10 years. Never have I EVER had a motor respond to a simple TB swap like this 2.5 did. Throttle response is dramatically improved & the engine pulls twice as hard as it did with the 2.5 TB. I'm getting the high idle on start up, but it comes down after 30 seconds or so. I can live with that. I highly recommend a 4.0 TB swap to any 2.5 owner.
Yup, Big Huge difference!! Be sure to use the IAC housing off the 2.5 TB and it will help the crazy ish high idle. Between 5.0 Injectors, cat delete, 4.0 tb, and efan, we just put 4" lift and 33's on her and 410s are still decent to drive. Yes, yes, you regear ppl, I know it would help. Maybe a 456 in a ford 8.8 rear when I get there. If the 2.5 blows up and i have $ for a 350 swap Ill want the 410's again...
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Old 02-06-2014, 06:43 PM   #149
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Man thats great I like it when I hear that someones 2.5L is running beyond strong. Yep I to got it all under the hood except for E-fan. My factory fan blades have been trimmed down about 5 percent. Its a sensitive thing to do because you can go to far. To the point of no return. But about a year ago or so I basically trimmed little by little, fisrt I cut the corners on the end of each blade closest to engine. That was about 1 inch angle cut. Meaning I measured 1in down and 1in from back to front and cut that angle off. Well just a hair lighter and a little less drag on the whole fan blade assembley. Does not sound like much but it felt like it spooled up that much quicker, and faster off the line. It was actually cooling better. Then awhile later I drilled two half inch holes in the center of each blade. Yes in a even line, centered from both sides of each blade and the lenght of blades. Well the results was and is, she spools up real quick off the line reaching higher RPMs like instant. Temps are actually cooling better and staying cooler longer. It feels like I can reach top speeds quicker and with ease. Well I know it sounds a little getto but its been working great. The last mod I did under the hood is swap out my accel coil that is rated at 42,000 volts to a nice coil from CRT performance which is rated at 45,000 volts. I did not believe there would be that much deference , but yes there is a nice difference once you find your sweet spot on which size gap to run on your plugs. Mine are NGKs gapped at a mild .039, along with my 8mm accel wires. Anyway I am pretty happy with the way she moves right now. Ofcourse not one mod is gonna work wonders but they do all work in sync. To much or to little of one thing not good. Gotta find that sweet spot. Air, Fuel, Spark, gears, wieght, Gained HP and better MPGs. Later guys and Happy 4 Wheeling.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:05 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by quicksand97 View Post
Man thats great I like it when I hear that someones 2.5L is running beyond strong. Yep I to got it all under the hood except for E-fan. My factory fan blades have been trimmed down about 5 percent. Its a sensitive thing to do because you can go to far. To the point of no return. But about a year ago or so I basically trimmed little by little, fisrt I cut the corners on the end of each blade closest to engine. That was about 1 inch angle cut. Meaning I measured 1in down and 1in from back to front and cut that angle off. Well just a hair lighter and a little less drag on the whole fan blade assembley. Does not sound like much but it felt like it spooled up that much quicker, and faster off the line. It was actually cooling better. Then awhile later I drilled two half inch holes in the center of each blade. Yes in a even line, centered from both sides of each blade and the lenght of blades. Well the results was and is, she spools up real quick off the line reaching higher RPMs like instant. Temps are actually cooling better and staying cooler longer. It feels like I can reach top speeds quicker and with ease. Well I know it sounds a little getto but its been working great. The last mod I did under the hood is swap out my accel coil that is rated at 42,000 volts to a nice coil from CRT performance which is rated at 45,000 volts. I did not believe there would be that much deference , but yes there is a nice difference once you find your sweet spot on which size gap to run on your plugs. Mine are NGKs gapped at a mild .039, along with my 8mm accel wires. Anyway I am pretty happy with the way she moves right now. Ofcourse not one mod is gonna work wonders but they do all work in sync. To much or to little of one thing not good. Gotta find that sweet spot. Air, Fuel, Spark, gears, wieght, Gained HP and better MPGs. Later guys and Happy 4 Wheeling.
Did drilling and cutting the fan really make that much difference? It wouldn't surprise me, but I'm apprehensive to say the least when it comes to cutting things off.

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4.0 throttle body , cold air intake , ecu chip , exhaust , o2 sensor

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