2.5 shot to #*@! - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 11-01-2010, 12:43 PM   #1
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
Angry 2.5 shot to #*@!

Well my 87 wrangler 126,000 2.5 is toast! Should i rebuild,replace with another 2.5, or upgrade. Any help appreciated.whats the extent to putting in a 4.0 or 4.2?

greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 01:39 PM   #2
444
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
What exactly is the problem with your current motor? One guy's "toast" is the next guy's blown head gasket. I only consider a motor "toast" if you threw a rod through the side of the block.

444 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 02:46 PM   #3
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
NOT REAL SURE,GOT FUEL,FIRE,AND STILL NOT RUNNING. I WAS TOLD IT WAS SHOT.I'M NO MECHANIC,BUT I'VE NEVER SEEN AN ENGINE NOT RUN WHEN GETTING FUEL AND SPARK?THIS THING IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 02:53 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
jdhallissey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Gurnee,IL
Posts: 5,104
Send a message via AIM to jdhallissey
Well stop yelling and give us some of the issues then code scan it too. The more info you give us the better chance we have of getting it running again.
__________________
Know nothing SPEAK on everything

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccain View Post
Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
jdhallissey is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 03:28 PM   #5
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
Thers no check engine light to get a code from.it seems to be getting fuel,took out the pressure release pug on the tbi and turned on the key and gas flows like crazy. Got spark at all 4 plugs and coil.if i pump the gas like crazy it tries to start but will not run.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 03:28 PM   #6
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
Oh, yeah replaced the crank positioning sensor also.new plugs,rotor button.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 05:42 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 2,291
Did this just start? What were the symptoms? From what you describe, it sounds like a fuel issue.
Don't give up. My brother-inlaw bought a (1987)jeep from a girl , she was told it was shot and needed a new engine. He gave her $800 and tuned it up, ran like a top.
__________________
2013 WRANGLER SPORT 2 DR., V-6 ,AUTO,HARD TOP
(Sold)1994 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L, Bestop top
/w steel half door and slider windows
5 speed, 2.5" lift, 31" tires,rack lights
Garyk is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 06:08 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
RSC17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 698
Images: 1
i'm confused. so if you pump the gas it tries to start meaning it just turns over or does it actually run for a little bit?

and what exactly happens when you don't pump the gas?

from what you've said already, it sounds like a fueling issue even though you think you're getting fuel. have you replaced pump and filter?
__________________
Northeast Ohio 4x4 . com
4x4 Tech Discussion - Events - Classifieds

^Check us out
RSC17 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 06:51 PM   #9
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
to answer a few questions,i just got it last week.the guy said it had no spark.the spark was weak so got a new coil,plugs,rotor,cap.before that tried to start it and it just turned over normal but would not start.after changing everything still wont start.realized it had spark and fuel so i thought maybe the cps was bad.replaced the crank positioning sensor crossed my fingers and no change.thought it was low on fuel so i put 5 gals in it.the gauge was not working either.after all this i decided i would try starting in gear so i could get it across my yard and noticed the fuel gauge began to work.so i pressed the clutch and pumped the hell out of the gas and helled it to the floor and it tried to start .any thoughts?
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 07:21 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
ToplessYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dutchess County
Posts: 38
hey buddy,
make sure you distributor cap is correct on it where the wires are going to the engine, if you need the form it goes just PM me or reply and let me know, it will not start if their not correct. its pretty hard to kill a jeep engine, especially if its a straight.
ToplessYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 07:33 PM   #11
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
i think their right,i'll take all the info i can.give me what you got,thanks.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 09:46 PM   #12
Jeeper
 
yjkid95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Great Lakes, Illinios.
Posts: 1,849
I thought mine blew up when it backfired like crazy and was bucking and stalling the whole way home with my foot to the floor. Put in a new fuel filter....Vrummmmmm started right up and ran just like before.
__________________
My Build Thread... with plenty of pics
yjkid95 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-01-2010, 11:49 PM   #13
444
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Is it firing at all? Will it run for a few seconds then die or not even want to run at all?

I've never worked on a Jeep 2.5, but have worked on plenty of Chrysler engines, and a couple import engines. Here are the places I would start checking, in no particular order:

1) Compression tester. Borrow one from auto stoned. We want to make sure you're making good compression on all cylinders. I bet you are, but I like to do this check first just to put my mind at ease.

2) Fuel pressure test. Again, borrow a fuel pressure tester. When you put the key to to the run position, the fuel pump should prime and you should get some psi of fuel. Also, if it's getting fuel, after all this cranking the plugs should be a bit wet with fuel when you pull them. Are they? We need to know whether or not the TBI fuel injector is firing. Is it?

3) Ignition timing. I would reset the ignition timing manually. Read this part several times I will try and type it out as clear as I can. Remove the spark plug from cylinder #1. I don't know which one that is on a Jeep 2.5, someone else will. I'm going to guess it's the cylinder closest to the front of the vehicle but someone else needs to confirm. We need to bring cylinder #1 up to Top Dead Center(TDC) on the compression stroke. You will need a ratchet, extension and a socket big enough to fit on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft so you can slowly rotate the engine CLOCKWISE when viewing from the front. You or a helper rotate the crankshaft while you hold your thumb tightly over the #1 spark plug hole. When you feel pressure start to build under your thumb, you are on the compression stroke. Now you must find the ignition timing scale. It's a stationary small metal tab fixed on the front of your engine with a small scale on it like on a tape measure. It's down low by the crankshaft. Usually goes from 0-15 or so. The big pulley on the front of your crankshaft is what's called a harmonic damper. The damper will have a slit mark that passes by the ignition timing tab. When cylinder #1 is at TDC, the slit mark on the damper will line up with the "0" on the ignition timing tab. But before doing this you must make sure you are on the compression stroke which you find out by doing the thumb pressure thing I told you about. Now that you have the slit mark on the damper pointing at the "0" mark on the timing tab, slightly rotate the engine counter-clockwise until the slit mark lines up with the "10" position or where the #10 should be. Those timing tabs always have numbers on them. Now your engine is at 10* Before Top Dead Center. Now leave the crankshaft alone and move on to the distributor. Loosen the bolt holding the clamp down on the distributor so you can rotate the distributor left and right. Now you need to rotate the distributor until the #1 cylinder spark plug wire is directly over top of the tip of the distributor rotor. You will have to put the distributor cap on and off several times to confirm you have it lined up dead on. Once you have it lined up, tighten down the distributor and check that all the rest of the plug wires are in their correct spot in relation to wire #1. #1 is correct after doing the method I just described, just switch all the other around until they are in their correct spots relative to the firing order of the engine. By doing this long winded process I have just described, you have verified the ignition timing of your engine.

4) If that didn't do it and you're SURE it's not a fuel supply problem(as in plugs are wet with fuel) then I would suspect your timing chain/gears are either very worn or your timing chain has jumped. This exact thing recently happened to by buddy's 84 dodge pickup. Timing chain jumped and same thing, plenty of fuel and spark but it would not run no matter what. To check this, you would need to pull the timing cover off the front of the engine. Then looking at the timing gears, you should be able to rotate the crankshaft. Each timing gear has a dot on it somewhere between the center of the timing gear and the perimeter. If you rotate the engine a couple times you should be able to put a straight edge between the center of the cam and the center of the crank and the two dots should basically line up with that straight edge. If the motor's on the exhaust stroke they will not like up but on the compression stroke everything should line up. Looking from top top bottom you should see the center of the cam, then below that the cam sprocket dot, then crank sprocket dot, then center of the crank. If all that doesn't line up, rotate the crank 360*. If still doesn't line up, timing chain has either jumped or is very very worn and has stretched badly. You would have to put on a new timing chain/gear set, making the dots line up on the compression stroke as I described, then redo step (3).

5) Swap in a junkyard ECU. I've had those things fail in weird ways. On my 87 daytona when the efi computer died one time I would still get fuel and spark but so badly timed I guess. Swapped in a junkyard ecu and I was good to go.
444 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 01:55 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
ferriolom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Herkimer, NY
Posts: 112
^ this. Follow this.
No starts are easy to diagnose as it is always either fuel spark timing or compression
__________________
1990 Jeep YJ Build
ferriolom is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 08:15 AM   #15
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
Just adding this to my list.why does the fork tab on the distributor not flush with the block when the dist. Is fully installed?does the other forked washer that holds it down go on top or bottom of the fork on the dist.?it's a weird fit,already broke the tab on one dist. ( do not want this to happen again)
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 08:17 AM   #16
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
1SAS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 546
Great advice

These guys gave you some great advice. The jeep 2.5 is hard to kill, but the computer isn't. The computer is set up to shut down the motor if you adjust the timing manually plus or minus a few degrees out. I am not kidding. This happened to me when I was trying to adjust it. The motor will run but it won't stay running. Go to the basics like they suggest, then if that isn't it, buy a manual and talk to a jeep mechanic.

Take care,
1SAS is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 09:13 AM   #17
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhead View Post
Just adding this to my list.why does the fork tab on the distributor not flush with the block when the dist. Is fully installed?does the other forked washer that holds it down go on top or bottom of the fork on the dist.?it's a weird fit,already broke the tab on one dist. ( do not want this to happen again)

This tells me the distributor gear is not engaged with the oil pump driveshaft. And likely the dist. is not timed correctly. Installed properly the dist. will sit flush with the engine block. The fork with the bolt fits OVER the fork on the dist. and acts as a hold down.

Timing itself is controlled by the ECM. However the dist. must still be in phase with the cam/crankshaft for the system to function properly.

Google setting timing on a Jeep 2.5 for the procedure.

This thread is OK.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/s...-timing-36547/

This applies to the 4.0 but will work with your 2.5 pay attention to pages 4 and 5.
http://www.contentedits.com/img.asp?id=23367


jsawduste is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 09:41 AM   #18
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
The dist. Does go flush ,but the block is lower where the dist. Goes in the block thus leaving a gap between the fork and block.if anyone has a picture of it installed please post,thanks
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 10:13 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
ToplessYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dutchess County
Posts: 38
can you post us a picture of what it looks like ?
ToplessYJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 10:17 AM   #20
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
I'm going to the salvage yard to get a dist. At lunch. I'm going to see how it's mounted.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 11:20 AM   #21
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhead View Post
The dist. Does go flush ,but the block is lower where the dist. Goes in the block thus leaving a gap between the fork and block.if anyone has a picture of it installed please post,thanks
Dist goes in first. The fork and the cast in ring are on the same plane.

Then the mounting plate slips over the fork on the dist. and over the dist. body ring. You will see the mounting plate has a step in it.

Line up the bolt holes in the mounting bracket and dist. fork.

Slide in 5/16th bolt and snug up.

Top of page 5 in this link I provided shows the dist. mounted.
http://www.contentedits.com/img.asp?id=23367

Installed but not necessary timed.
jsawduste is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 02:08 PM   #22
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
JUST GOT BACK FROM THE SALVAGE YARD.I HAD THE HOLD DOWN WASHER UPSIDE DOWN. OH YEAH, SALVAGE YARD DIST. $19.50, REMAN. DIST. $39.00,SEEING HOW IT BOLTS IN AT THE SALVAGE YARD !! PRICELESS!!
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-02-2010, 06:50 PM   #23
444
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Okay now get the distributor primed like I described above and go from there.
444 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-03-2010, 08:05 AM   #24
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
I will update sunday. Plan on working on it all day with my brother,been working on it by myself.it's frustrating doing it alone.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-06-2010, 02:44 PM   #25
Newb
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NEW KENT,VA.
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhead View Post
i will update sunday. Plan on working on it all day with my brother,been working on it by myself.it's frustrating doing it alone.


update! Pulled of the head,no. 1 piston broken in two spots no compression,and no. 4 the push rod was out of place and the lifter wasn't even seated in the block ( it was just loose rolling around in the block) what to do? Rebuild,replace,upgrade to v8.what should i do please help.
greenhead is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-06-2010, 03:17 PM   #26
Jeeper
 
moscoeb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Richmond, KY
Posts: 839
Edit:

Just saw you found the problem, good luck, I'll let the wiser people step in from here!!
moscoeb is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-07-2010, 10:30 AM   #27
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
1SAS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 546
What is your goal with the jeep? Do you just want to get it running for the street? Do you plan on using it off road? Are you going to modify the suspension? What is you money situation like? What are your mechanical skills like? These are straight forward questions that have to be answered in order for anyone to give you good advice. And you have to answer these questions honestly.

Take care,
1SAS is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-07-2010, 11:58 AM   #28
Jeeper
 
crtaylor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Beaver Falls,PA
Posts: 1,055
wow thought I got a couple of bad 2.5s ,that is before I got a good one.my first one had a bad cyl. took it out replaced with a 97 .it was in a totaled jeep.the problem with the 97 was a stuck lifter and it ground the cam down ,metal shavings thoughout the engine and bam you know how this ends.my 3 is an 89 comanche engine this thing runs like a top .all in all i got 300 bucks in them all .yank the thing find a used motor and pray
crtaylor is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 11-08-2010, 04:31 PM   #29
444
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 203
Pull the engine out. If the piston's broken it likely either gouged up your bore and/or threw metal shavings into your oil. The engine could likely be salvaged but not worth it. Take some time and decide on what you want. You could drop another 4cyl right in, upgrade to a 6 or 8. Your choice. In your shoes I would take this time to upgrade but it really depends on what your end goals are for this jeep.

444 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First top down shot with flatties Adian JK General Discussion Forum 12 10-30-2010 11:24 PM
My Neighbor Shot My Seat Covers! BlackHawkTJ Off-Topic 102 03-11-2010 10:39 AM
Tranny is shot giffholmes YJ General Discussion Forum 2 09-11-2009 04:20 PM
Speed Camera Operator Shot and Killed RatherBNarizona Off-Topic 10 04-22-2009 05:05 AM
poor poor Joe, he was shot at... tiny terror Off-Topic 4 10-01-2008 03:48 PM



» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:49 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC