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2 different electrical questions: wiper motor and wiper fluid pump

737 views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  brent in az 
#1 ·
1) Wiper Motor

Died a year ago. But haven't lived in snow for a year, so no biggy. No click, no sound, no stutter, dead. Motor is kaput I'm guessing. I've seen the vids and read the threads: PULL OUT THE STUPID SNEEZE IF YOU LOOK AT THEM TORX on the inside tub hinges. Undo front of soft-top of course. Fold windshield forward for the 93. Replace motor. Replace windshield channel (got a phoenix guy selling these for $30 new) on the windshield bend (mine is all flakes).

It should be semi-easy....I have new torx bits...and a ratchet... Please furnish additional tips if you have them--anything I should be on the lookout for?

Can I replace the soon-to-be-stripped-out Torx bolts with Grade 8?


Hopefully this problem is unrelated to next problem.

2) Wiper Squirter Motor on the Bottom of the WW Reservoir Bottle

Never functioned in the 8 years I've owned the Jeep. Never mattered. Lived in snow country (Flagstaff/Rimrock). Just needed wipers. Went to my Oreilly parts recently.

Got the part for the squirter motor sensor thingy (I don't know the correct name). Oreilly salesman walked out to the parking lot with me. I wanted to try the new squirter pump before purchase---he said it would work.

It didn't work. It was a simple plug-in part. Connections did not seem stuck or sticky or filthy. But no squirting water. No sound.

How do I diagnose the squirter motor? This is the only electrical prob in my Jeep. Should I take the voltmeter underneath the steering wheel and start checking resistances on the board?

Barring the slim chance the part he brought out didn't work, it doesn't appear the squirter wires are getting juice. Not good at electrical but can use my VM with good instructions.

Thanks to anybody for attempting to answer either of these questions. The failure of these two (related?) parts is 7 years apart so I don't see a coincidence. Maybe you do? This is a modest, cheap, and time-intensive project but would like to fix them both soon. Appreciate the input--Brent
 
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#2 ·
Torx tips...

1)-Heat the area of the torx bolts with a good heat gun.
Heat the area until it is too hot to touch with your bare hand. Protect the windshield glass by taping a piece of cardboard over the glass in the area that you will be heating.

2)-Break the torx bolts loose with an impact driver. Impact driver should be available at Harbor Freight. The type that you hold and whack with a hammer.

3)-Be absolutely certain that you are using the correct sized torx bit. A torx bit even one size smaller than what is required will round out the teeth in the torx bolt hole.

4)-Assemble with a speck of Antisieze on each new bolt if you can't re-use your original torx bolts..

I don't think you will find grade 8 torx headed bolts. The hole in the spreader bar plate at the windshield frame has a tapered opening. I used allen head bolts that I got at NAPA.

Windshield washer pump motor issue....

1)-I know that you have already checked all your fuses.

2)-Check power at the washer pump connection.

3)-Check the connections as they come out of the switch on the lower part of your steering column.

I agree that the two issues are unrelated unless you have a failing switch on the steering column. If you don't have power coming out of the switch at the connector at the lower part of the column, you will probably have to replace the switch assembly. Get an OE Mopar if available. I believe the YJ columns and internal workings are the same as GM columns of the same period. GM may have the wiper switch. Other posters can tell you which GM columns (and therefore internal parts) interchange on your '93.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
#3 ·
Wow--thank you for the detailed response. Still have some questions.

On the wiper motor repair: will the heat gun strip the paint on the hinge/plates? I know all about one size different on the torx bit and it's stripped! It's hard to be sure. That's why I bought a set. T45 is my guy...

Also, I know (because I tried for the seat swap) that there is no grade 8 for torx..and I know this is a silly question. But even if I wanted to replace the Torx...what would be so bad about a bolt with a head that sat outside the hinges instead of flush? An engineering thing because of the convex dip in the plate (for lack of a better term)? Allen heads to me have the same degree of shearing on removal...but I'm a left-handed clumsy guy so it's lifelong..

Breaking the seal is the key, I agree. Whatever bolts, even the originals, go back in the Jeep hinges/plates---I'm starting to feel like I should get a torque wrench to reinstall. Unless muscle and the scarce anti-seize is good enough?

washer pump:
am I looking for resistances or output at the washer pump connector? And the same thing at the lower part of the switch? You are right I checked fuses. I've long thought it was the switch. These things are affordable if I buy Crown or something like that. Rather buy the mopar. I had a gmc S15 (same as S10) and surprised that switch crosses over.

But as far as I know all my stuff is EXTERNAL of the column (junction mounted on outside), and I don't believe I have to worry about column internals. But after 8 years of maintaining this rig I'm never done learning....thank you.
 
#4 ·
As far as the hinge plates, There are two smaller torx bolts into the windshield frame and one large one into the dash. The bolt to remove is the larger one into the dash.

If you have access to a die grinder with a flat blade, you can carefully cut a grove in the head of the stripped bolt and remove it with a flat bladed screwdriver. It will come out easier if you heat it first. Then replace the bolt with whatever you feel like.

It is improbable that a heat gun will blister the paint. Anything is possible, but if you have original paint, I think you will be OK.

For the w/s washer, you are looking for 12V. at the washer plug. If you have voltage there with the key on and not actuating the washer switch, then the switch actuates the washer by grounding the circuit. Check your FSM for a schematic.
If you don't have voltage there, check for voltage at the connector on the lower part of the column.

I strongly suggest Mopar or GM for anything related to what you are currently concerned with.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
#5 ·
Lucky, thank you. I don't have the FSM but my haynes has the schematics. Don't want to replace the switch if I don't have to but it's not a dramatic purchase/install.

If I have no voltage at the washer connector and no voltage on lower part of switch I can assume I have to replace switch to get the washer functioning. Is this correct?

Also, if I have no voltage at the washer connector, but voltage on the lower switch (following schematic of course) then I have to chase the short in the wire. Is this correct?

Not sure I want the answer if I have voltage for both!

I'm not opposed to Allen bolts if they worked for you. I won't do electrical troubleshooting til Friday, but I will keep in touch. Thanks for your reply--Brent
 
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