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Old 06-22-2013, 04:20 PM   #1
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4.2 carb options? Opinions welcome.

89 Yj/4.2/auto. My Carter BBD decided to crap out me. Now I am getting the dieing at red lights and running like a model T that was pulled out of a barn. It ran ok for about two days after aggressively spraying it with carb cleaner. I have been looking all over for a 2150 and located one about two hours one way from me. The non-electronic Carter's are easier to find and people aren't pricing them like they are gold plated. Will a rebuilt non-electronic Carter be a direct bolt on and give much more dependable service than the electronic version? I just spent about $500 on parts and really need to keep the cost down, but at the same time I am tired of it running horrible and dont want to have this happen again in six months. Has anyone ever switched to the non-electronic Carter and had long-term dependable service? I want reliability over upgrades that are just for performance.

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Old 06-22-2013, 04:33 PM   #2
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I should add that I am thinking about swapping carbs because the Carter BBD was rebuilt in 2012. I think that is a record for me on a rebuild. Historically, I have always had years of service from a single rebuild.

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Old 06-22-2013, 04:42 PM   #3
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get rid of the carter.........best option.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:47 PM   #4
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I have the motorcraft 2150 on my jeep yj 4.2 installed by the Colorado Springs dude who specializes in them. It works well for me and is fairly easy to tinker with. Has a tricky time warming up though so I gotta check that out.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:37 PM   #5
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I am so happy with my motorcaft 2150 on my 4.2 would also recommend the HEI dizzy
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:53 AM   #6
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i have a 4 barrel holley. a 450cfm
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:10 AM   #7
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Motorcraft 2100 or 2150. You'll look for the one with the 1.18 venturis and has that number cast into the side.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
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i thought it was 1.08?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:25 AM   #9
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I think 88Sahara meant to put 1.08. I ordered a 2150 and look forward to having a jeep that won't die at stop signs.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:11 PM   #10
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CARB 2150 Question

I literally just finished installing my 2150 on Friday. The jeep runs great with this carb. The carter carb is a hit or miss even when rebuilt the idle tubes are prone to clogging even if you drill them out in my opinion.

The motorcraft runs strong you want the 1.08 venturi if you can get it.
If your buying from the Carbguy he knows what you need.

I happen to have access to a 1.21 venturi for a very good price gives me 350CFM which is way more than you need in my opinion again, the Throttle assempbly arm was bad but only cost me 19.00$

make sure you connect up your PCV to the carb in the back near the throttle linkage if you can if not use the Brake Booster connection and run a brass tee of the intake manifold needs to be 3/8 hose or larger.

Go ahead and change all your vacum lines that you plan to keep at this time unless they are new mine were trash which is part of the reason the carter ran like crap.

After the install it purrs like a kitten.


Biggest pain in the butt was figuring out the throttle linkage and springs you will need to do some fab work very minor I used existing parts from my carter swap out.

Good luck you will love the results

Oh btw use good gasket sealer on all gaskets and get the thick gasket helps with moving the linkage arm up enough to clear the brake booster tee.

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Old 06-24-2013, 12:12 PM   #11
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Number = CFM
.98 = 190
1.01 = 240
1.02 = 245
1.08 = 287
1.14 = 300
1.21 = 351
1.23 = 356
1.33 = 424
Created
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:24 PM   #12
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Thanks for the response. Can anyone verify this is a 2150?

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Old 06-24-2013, 02:37 PM   #13
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Looks like one.... Should have a cast mark 1.08 on the side
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashcrazy View Post
I think 88Sahara meant to put 1.08. I ordered a 2150 and look forward to having a jeep that won't die at stop signs.
Yep. Sorry. Carn'td tieyp
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:35 PM   #15
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Have any of you found a MC2100 rebuild write up that was good. Most auto part stores carry two rebuild kits. One around $25 and another for about $50. What's the difference in the kits?
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:46 AM   #16
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Cashcrazy

Look on the side of the carb there should be a raized cast mark about the size of a nickel with some numbers on it match the numbers on the cast mark to the list of numbers I posted earlier and you will know your CFM. As far as parts kit or rebuild kit I used the Autozone one because they are closer than Advanced to me only reason but it cost about 30 dollars did everything I needed it too.

The hard line coming out of the back of your carb picture is for the PCV if you did not know that. Becareful with all the small parts if you have not rebuilt a carb before they can get lost easily I used a white towel under my carb makes dirty parts stand out.

Lastly when you do your function test look for links around the Throttle Shaft assembly
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:18 AM   #17
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most the sludge just keeps filling the jets. its also likely your vacuum solenoids are bad and not triggering your idle solenoid to raise the rpms on the slow down. We just put too much in fixing the emissions to give up and get the two vacuum tube carb. Its a real simple carb to rebuild and I just got solenoids from an industrial supply to replace the two bad ones.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:47 AM   #18
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Leaks not links

Sorry
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:09 AM   #19
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Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:11 AM   #20
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Here is a link to a PDF for the re-build:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf

Write up for the install: http://files.meetup.com/633539/Insta...%20a%20258.pdf


Yes the one pictured is a 2150, looks near identical to mine!
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashcrazy View Post
Have any of you found a MC2100 rebuild write up that was good. Most auto part stores carry two rebuild kits. One around $25 and another for about $50. What's the difference in the kits?

I went through this same debacle. I ended up getting the $25 kit. The $50 kit was actually for a completely different carburetor. Oreilly ordered me this one to begin with, and I had to take it back and wait a for them to get in the right one.

This is where YOU need to find your part numbers on what you want. It appears that the day of a good parts store man is far past and now mostly filled with idiots.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:26 AM   #22
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I went through this same debacle. I ended up getting the $25 kit. The $50 kit was actually for a completely different carburetor. Oreilly ordered me this one to begin with, and I had to take it back and wait a for them to get in the right one.

This is where YOU need to find your part numbers on what you want. It appears that the day of a good parts store man is far past and now mostly filled with idiots.
The tag is long gone, but I do know the carb was from a 78 CJ7 with a 304. I am glad I can buy the cheaper part for once. My wife was complaining last night that she had to wait for me to go in three parts stores to get the right part. I told her the good days were gone where you told the man at the counter what you need and they bring back the right part.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:35 AM   #23
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with a 304 huh? You're sure it is a 1.08?

Check your jet sizes when you take it apart.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:47 AM   #24
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I purchased as a 1.08 so I hope it is. All the info i could find said AMC only used the 1.08 on the 304. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. What do you know about jet sizes on the different venturi sizes. I had planned to use a #46 jet.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:53 PM   #25
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If it is a 1.08 then it is. Lol

My 1.08 has #50 jets but fuel mileage might go up if I had in some 46 jets.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:49 PM   #26
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I have my carb all tore apart on the kitchen table and have soaked the big parts. I ordered the rebuild kit, adapter, and new float today from Advance Auto. No one stocks carb jets anywhere so ill have to order that online. I was shocked. I had #47 Jets in it, but one was stripped and chewed up. I am a perfectionist so I had to remove it. I am not sure if I want to go back with 47's or maybe go with a 46's.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:46 PM   #27
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If it is a 1.08 then it is. Lol

My 1.08 has #50 jets but fuel mileage might go up if I had in some 46 jets.
What are you getting MPG with your current setup? Did you have any problems with the MR. Gasket adapter not covering the base of the carb properly and causing a vacuum leak? I have read about several people having this problem.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:18 AM   #28
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The MR gasket plate does not cover the base of the carb, but your rebuild kit should come with a base gasket to go under the carb. It will be carb, base gasket (about 1/8" thick)
Plate gasket, plate, gasket, intake manifold.

The screws that hold the plate to the manifold are hex head Allen key, don't look like they will screw down in but they will.
Then the 4 nuts slide up into the bottom of the plate then the bolts screw in from the top.

They are not long enough to mount a throttle cable bracket or spring bracket though.

Mpg wise, right now 14mpg @ 80mph on the highway.
13mpg in town.

I have #50 jets, and have not fine tuned the idle mixture screws yet.
I am waiting for the CRT distributor. Then I will fine tune timing and vacuum and idle mixture.

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