1350 is a pretty big u joint size, the 8.8 flange has multiple holes for different size adapters, though I don't know for certain if the 8.8 flange has an adapter for a 1350 u joint..
If I were you I'd go with a "weaker" or smaller u joint.. Think of designing your divetrain with fuses, ie what you want to fail first. A u joint will be cheaper to replace than any other part, plus they aren't hard to change out.
1310s will hold up to a v8.. I pulled my current axles out of a Jeep with a built 302.. I even asked the guy we bought the Jeep from what u joints he was running since I was planning for possible driveshaft rebuild and they were the same 1310s as mine.. I even saw a few of his YouTube videos and he wasn't easy on the skinny pedal
he gave the same reasoning, designed it to be the first part to go, cheapest and easiest to replace.. he had the option of going all out too, no original drivetrain components, and he paid for a truehi9 (i think its $50 more for a forged 1350 yoke for those)
I did a bit of searching, it appears they do make a 1350 flange yoke that bolts up to the flange on the 8.8, they also sell yokes to replace the flange all together.. im sure you can ask them at tom wood's, they should stock the adapter..
no problem man, ultimately its up to you, do a lot of research on what others are doing in regards to the u joints... At first I was kinda hoping the u joints were 1350s.. bigger is better right? Then reading into it some more, and getting others opinions I saw the light so to speak. I've had to pay for a driveshaft to be rebuilt before and it was as expensive as a new one.. The PO didn't grease it much if ever.. so I'd rather throw a u joint and spend 40 on a new Spicer than 370 on a whole shaft