I have an 87 yj with the BA10/5 manual transmission and I'm thinking it needs a clutch slave because its not going into gear when it warms up??? don't know if anyone's had this issue,but I've heard these transmissions are crap and I can't really see myself putting a fist full of cash into it if its not worth it. I have an AX15 5spd sitting on my garage floor,will it bolt up to the stock 2.5 L engine with out to many issues or do I need to get new parts ie) clutch, t case, swap kit...or should it bolt right in? Also i might try and do it myself I am pretty mechanically inclined and of coarse I'm on a budget... can anyone share some insight? should I just pay a mechanic to do it or is it an easy enough job to do in a laneway?
well I guess I'm not out of the woods yet!! bled the clutch and everything seemed to work flawlessly for about 20-30 min then the clutch started getting a bit softer and the transmission started doing the same thing.i inspected the bleeder to see if it was tight and it is,no leaks anywhere I can see everything looks dry & i don't seem to be loosing any clutch fluid. I will try bleeding it again tomorrow and c if it makes a difference.Correct me if I'm wrong but I've heard this process can be sum what of a pain in the ass, and that you have to bleed the clutch lines a lot to get it to function correctly
Location: On the edge of insanity, Outside the bounds of Reason.
Yeah it can get pretty ridiculous.. is your fluid clear still? It should be crystal clear if not use a DOT3 brake fluid and continue to fill and bleed till it is..... milky white=water/condensation Brown=heat/old and then there's the elusive air bubble that will hold pressure cold and go sponge at the first bit of heat.
It was dark brown when I started, it's clear now after putting a bottle of DOT3 through it. I did it last night while it was cold, so ill get it up to temperature and bleed it again while its warm and c what happens
the BA10 has an internal Slave, when I'm bleeding the clutch do I have to drop the transmission and bleed the salve as well?? Bleeding the clutch doesn't seem to be working I keep bleeding it and it seems to be fine and then it f--k's up again after its warm. I bled it cold and warm figured it would make a difference
Typical sign of the air leak at the point where the hard line from the master mates at the inlet if the internal slave. The line goes in with two o-rings and a clip holds it in place. Somehow it gets moved just a little and will not hold the seal when everything heats up. My solution was the external mod.
How do you fix your problem??? Pull it all apart and try again its a real PIA.
89 2.5 TBI, 4" RC lift, 1" Booms, SYE, Adams Driveshafts front and rear, Ford 8.8 with 4:88s, BFG 33X12.50X15, and a ton of other stuff.
think i fixed it this time... drove it until It got warm, I brought my tools and catch basin with me on my trip cause I figured it would f up and it did!! so I pulled over to the side of the road and did a gravity bleed on the clutch. Drove it for an hour and half after and it seems to be working great now no more spongy clutch!!! So if ur reading this and you have the same issue with your clutch do the GRAVITY BLEED and save yourself the headache.