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Old 07-11-2013, 11:24 AM   #1
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88' Sahara Carter Carb High RPM's at startup

So my buddy gave me his 88 Wrangler Sahara with the 4.2/I6 after it sat for 3 years on the side of his parents house and I am attempting to get it "road worthy" but I am having issues with high idle upon start up. When I start it up it seems to be going into this high idle mode (cant tell RPMs cause the gauge does not work) and it will idle very high sounds like 2-3k rpms and then shift to a low struggling idle and then just die immediatly if I do not give it throttle. All I have done is added premium fuel and antifreeze to run, the black smoke has subsided. I know there were vacuum leaks because hoses were cracked so i did replace those but this thing runs the same with or without the stock air cleaner and all the vacuum lines on it. I dont get it. What should I do? Nutter bypass? Use a jumper wire and test the Sol Vac? Carb Rebuild? Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! Thanks, David/Phoenix

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:32 AM   #2
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Sounds like the choke is working. All these carbureted jeeps will run a out 1,600 RPM's at start up. Once they warm up the idle drops. Is it a carter carb?

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:54 AM   #3
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88' Sahara Carter Carb High RPM's at startup

yes, Carter BBD but the SolVac doesnt even touch the screw that sits on the linkage behind it. I have seen it move (sol vac piston) but it looks like it doesnt do anything. What do you suggest I do about the stock air cleaner? Leave it on and run all new vacuum lines or completley remove and just go with the a cleaner on top of the carb and do the "nutter". I am all about keeping an engine stock but I am willing to do whatever will be cost effective and reliable. Advice?
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:09 PM   #4
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I would do the nutter carefully and have a ballast resistor on hand in case you need it.

Then if she still idles rough consider a carb swap the carter is junk but after the nutter is a little better also you will have to clean the idle tubes the clog easily and change the fuel filter right away after sitting that long there is the potential for a lot of varnish.

Heck I would even consider dropping fuel tank and cleaning it.

Just my .02 cents
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:16 PM   #5
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ok, so you suggest
1. Trashing the stock air cleaner and vacuum lines
2. Performng the Nut Bypass
3. Clean Idle Tubes
4. Change Fuel Filter

Should i change fuel filter and clean the idle tubes before I do the nutter just to see what happens?

Thanks for everything this is great!

david
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:39 PM   #6
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Sounds like a bad egr valve to me. Rebuild your BBD and do the nutter bypass first. Look in the carb to see
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:43 PM   #7
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*to see if the idle tubes are dripping. Upgrade the distributor to the bigger cap.
My 90 model did the same thing and it was the egr valve. Good luck to you.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #8
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New fuel filter for sure.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:53 PM   #9
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replace bad vacuum lines ,make sure the choke plate stays open and run it for a while..it might clear up..if not , then start throwing parts at it if you want
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:09 PM   #10
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I live in Arizona, and this vehicle does not have to go through emissions. Should I continue to use this ECU or just remove it completely? From what I have read this Electronic System just causes issues and was only put on for Emission purposes. I just want to simplify the engine, but if replacing vacuum hoses and just trouble shooting from there is my best bet then I will do it. I'm a newbie I know nothing about 4.2/I6's. Well other than the basics. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #11
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many times when you start changing a bunch of things you create other problems,especially if you are not very knowledgeable
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:51 PM   #12
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You got it! I've been reading "adventures under the hood" and getting the basics here, i think i will replace all vacuum lines and make sure everything is clean/leak free and then trouble shoot from there. Thank you
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:52 PM   #13
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agree with looking down carb to see if idle tubes drip or spray can give it some gas to see if it sprays or dribbles.

Just be aware you may need to get rid of the carter it can be a pain in the butt to maintain though some have had good success just taking care of it.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:36 AM   #14
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ok, so I dont mean to be a pain in the back side and I realize that the advice given was to go with everything stock and then trouble shoot from there. But last night I was trouble shooting the carb and I was testing the solvac and when I disconnected the vacuum line and the connection from it the 4.2/I6 ran better than it ever has. Actually ran somewhat normal. Any more advice to this or again just put everything back on stock and go from there. Thank you
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:54 AM   #15
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getting it to run normal is the goal regardless if it is stock or not..sounds like you are getting it there..
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:18 AM   #16
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If it runs better with all of these things disconnected where do I find info on what to do about these open vacuum lines, crankcase breather etc... i know I can put a small breather on the valve cover breather but what has to be hooked up? Vacuum line to Dist, 4WD, what else?
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:07 PM   #17
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pcv valve,brake booster,dist and 4wd is about it..just plug the other lines going to the carb and intake
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:02 PM   #18
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will do, thanks!!!
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:33 PM   #19
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just plugging vacuum lines will cause you problems, it should run as a complete system or eliminate it completely. you at least need to do the nutter bypass and set the carb to run with out the computer controls.
heres a thread that tells you how to do it.
This is a Picture Guide to Nutter Bypass - JeepForum.com

or you can go to the next step and replace the carb and distributor.
it will cost you a few hundred dollars but your jeep will perform better.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:48 PM   #20
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not plugging vacuum lines that are not used will cause you more problems and all those lines going to the breather are not needed

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