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Old 01-20-2012, 11:02 PM   #1
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89 YJ brake bleeding problems

Hello All,

I just replaced both front calipers and pads, all went well considering autozone sold me calipers with the banjo bolt hole in a diffrent location than stock, causing me to relocate my brake lines, but that is beside the point. I did the two person bleeding method and bled both calipers about 10-12 times on each side. My brake pedal still drops to the floor with only about 5% braking at the very end, not nearly enough to stop my jeep. while i had both banjo bolts disconnected all the brake fluid drained leaving the rear half of my master cylinder(the part which feeds fluid to the front brakes) bone dry and i assume letting air get into my line. i have drove and re-bled the brakes 3 diffrent times and still i have no pressure. the brake system was fully functional before i started and i have no fluid leaks. aside from taking it to a shop i have no idea where to go from here. When i bleed the brakes a solid stream of fluid comes out, no air. any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 01-20-2012, 11:24 PM   #2
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When bleeding brakes you start with the longest line first and work to the front. Bleed each line until you are sure new fluid is running through it. It's been awhile but I think it goes like this.

1.-passenger rear
2.-driver rear
3.-passenger front
4.-driver front.

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Old 01-20-2012, 11:31 PM   #3
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Are you sure the calipers are on the correct side[s]..there is a left and a right...The bleeder should be at the TOP of the caliper if installed correctly.Air bubbles float to the top..and if you have them on the wrong sides you have a huge air pocket trapped in the caliper with no way out.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:37 PM   #4
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the calipers are installed correctly as the bleeder screw is as high up as it could possibly be, with the pistons on the calipers pushing outward from the jeep. i assume if they were installed incorrectly with the bleeder screw on the bottom the piston in the caliper would be facing inward. when i press the brakes to bleed them the piston nudges slightly, but not alot, and obviously not enough to stop the jeep. and would i need to bleed the rear as well if air only got into the lines in the front since the rear brake section of the master cylinder was still full of fluid?
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:41 PM   #5
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Not if you flipped them to the other side...got a picture? Your statement about re-doing the brake hose to fit makes me think they're on the wrong sides
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #6
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You need to bleed the rears as well. Rednek is right, start from the farthest away from the MC and work your way closer. Try that and then how the pedal feels. Make sure you are getting a good flow of fluid out of the hose when you're bleeding it....no bubbles. Make sure your helper isn't letting go of the pedal before you get the valve closed up. Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:49 PM   #7
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will do. hitched a ride with the gf to her house, going back to mine monday before i have to make a road trip tuesday night. as far as the calipers go, i bought the driver side and installed it, the did the passenger side as an after thought, so i know no parts got mixed up between the two sides. thanks for all the help and i will try this as soon as i get home on monday.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:52 PM   #8
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and as far as the hose goes, we have been bleeding them without a hose, just pumping and then loosening the bleeder screw. i have heard of the method of putting the house into fluid so it is impossible for air to pass back up through the line, would you reccomend this? also, never tried the hose method, but wouldnt the hose block me from beeing able to turn the bleeder screw if it was fitted over it? any reccomendations on hose diameter as well?
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:59 PM   #9
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as an afterthought as well, the original banjo bolt location was on the front middle of the caliper on the stock one. looking at ground level from the front with the tire off it would be directly in front of you. the new calipers the location is on the bottom middle, and with the last 9-10 inches of the brake line being metal, i couldnt hook them up without rerouting the brake line in order to get enough play. asked the guy at autozone he said since car manufactors use different vendors for their parts when they build vehicles, this was the cause of the diffrent location of the banjo bolt. otherwise they fit like a glove, dont know if this helps?
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:09 AM   #10
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This is a 1989 yj caliper for the right side [passenger]...notice the bleeder is at the top.when installed..is this how yours is?
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:48 PM   #11
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these are the two calipers i have installed. they are duralast remanufactored units
Attached Images
   
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89YJRVFD View Post
these are the two calipers i have installed. they are duralast remanufactored units
They are identical to the photo I posted...So...I will ask again...This one should be on the passenger side...is it?
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:16 PM   #13
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im sorry, with the angle of the picture im having a hard time imagining it on my jeep, but on the pictures i have up, the first picture is on the drivers side, and the second is on the passenger side, with the pistons pushing from the inside of the jeep twords the wheel
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:43 PM   #14
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if you bleed using a hose you can get your wrench on behind the hose easily enough. just put one end on the bleeder valve the other in a jar with fluid in it. make sure jar end stays submerged then open bleeder and pump brake pedal until new fluid and no air comes out. be sure and keep reservoir full when dong this. as said before start at wheel farthest from master cylindar
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:48 PM   #15
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ok. i also have four sets of speed bleeders with the check valves inside on order im picking up tommorow, so im hoping that combined with the hose into fluid method will do it for me
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89YJRVFD View Post
im sorry, with the angle of the picture im having a hard time imagining it on my jeep, but on the pictures i have up, the first picture is on the drivers side, and the second is on the passenger side, with the pistons pushing from the inside of the jeep twords the wheel
They are on the wrong sides then....that is why the brakelines didn't reach also.The first one in the picture should be on the passenger side..swap them out and you will get the pedal back...You will never get the air out with them on upside down.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:55 PM   #17
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okay, thank you for the help. obviously autozone has no idea what they are doing haha. just confirming when i switch them, will the piston push away from the wheel or twords the wheel?
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89YJRVFD View Post
okay, thank you for the help. obviously autozone has no idea what they are doing haha. just confirming when i switch them, will the piston push away from the wheel or twords the wheel?
to the wheel...same way they are now...I's just the bleeder will be at the top to let the air out...Try it...it's 2 bolts and a b-line...5 minutes...
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:14 PM   #19
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ha will do. thank you for all the help, its been worrying me. especially after rolling into the intersection in front of my house with no brake pedal testing them the first time lol
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:57 PM   #20
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hose in the bottle trick

The hose in the bottle doesn't really work for flushing the system. It is meant to be for a person to be able to bleed the brakes alone. You want to be sure you have enough fluid in the bottle above the bottom of the hose to allow fluid back into the system.

You break the bleed valve open slightly, not open all the way. Then when you press on the brakes slowly the fluid will slowly expell into the bottle, along with any air. You want to make the hose as short as possible so there is enough fluid flow to expell the air.

When you let the brake peddle up the system will pull fluid from the bottle back into the system. You repeat this until all the air is out. When you think you have it all out, you go back and tighten up the bleed valve. You should have solid peddle. If soft, then you have to bleed again.

Easier with two but practical with one person.
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:24 AM   #21
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Hi. I too have the same issue. I replaced the front rotors, calibers and pads. The calibers are on the correct side. I bleed the front calibers pass first then driver. The fuild lowered in the rear of the master and the front satyed where it was. I did the two man sytem. I get fluid out of the bleeder and no air bubbles. Still have no brake pedal. Do u think I need to bleed the rear
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:50 AM   #22
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Another tip when using the one-man/bottle method is suspend the bottle above the brakes. That helps keep air from going back in as it generally won't flow down.

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