Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

90 jeep wandering

4K views 58 replies 5 participants last post by  chris yoos 
#1 ·
so my jeep seems to be all over the road. im new to the jeep thing. I think I might need a castor adjustment, but im not sure.

can some one tell me what kid of lift I have by pics? is this just a shackle lift? what the issues with such a lift?

is the steering stabilizer seem off to anyone? it don't look like that angle would do too much to me....

and my passenger tire seems to be toes out with the driver side straight ahead. Im sure this can cause an issue. would that be tie-rod issues?

ill post pictures in my next post, from my phone.
thanks for any help
 
#7 ·
Can't see much from the pictures other than a slight shackle lift. I can't guarantee the strength of those shackles, but mine were weak and would flex. Solution was stock shackles. Steering stabilizer is a band aid for the wobble. Some Jeepers ditch them, I keep mine. Keeps some stress off the tie rods.

YJs don't have caster or camber adjustment. Only front toe. There are some Jeepers on here that endlessly deny that, but I work at an alignment shop and if something isn't adjustable, we just inform the customer, and don't "fabricate". Offset ball joints, shims, etc are solutions for the adjustments.

The wheel toed out is likely an illusion. INDIVIDUAL toe is not adjustable, but TOTAL toe is. Your total toe is probably out, then the drag link is off as well.

Drag link centers the steering wheel, and does nothing else. My guess is that the previous owner or shop adjusted the total toe out too far, then adjusted the drag link to center the steering wheel with the left wheel.
 
#8 ·
is the stabilizer supposed to be as that angle? anything I can do to help it?
so beefier shackles could help?
cant castor be adjusted with shims that the ball joint sits in? or is that what you mean
 
#9 ·
For some reason the stabilizer photo wasn't showing. Now that I see it, it is completely wrong.

It looks like it's mounted to the drag link and the frame rail. Should be mounted to the tie rod and the axle. Remove it for now since it really isn't doing anything at all except adding steering resistance.
 
#10 ·
On a side note you have a spring over axle lift... Nice addition if done right.
 
#11 ·
Can you post a pic or 3 of how the axle attaches to the spring? Try to show the top of the U-bolts.

MM is the guy to listen to about YJ suspension. Owning one of these old heaps and working in an alignment shop gives him a unique experience.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
#15 ·
I went back and looked. its a skyjacker SOA and he says its ~5.75" lift.
32" AT tires
new drag link and leaf springs w/ poly bushings all around im told

thanks again for the help guys
 
#17 ·
I went back and looked. its a skyjacker SOA and he says its ~5.75" lift.
32" AT tires
new drag link and leaf springs w/ poly bushings all around im told

thanks again for the help guys
Bolt on soa kits are one thing. Adding shackles and sketchy steering is another. In a perfect world you want the drag link parallel to the axle. If it is not, you get bump steer, or "wandering". Cross over steering is one option but expensive. Its a knuckle for the passenger side that moves the drag link only up. Even better would be a hi-steer system. There is loads of info all around the web. Do you have pics of the rear end? The ladder bar setup and driveshaft angle specifically. Not being a jag but you could have an abortion on your hands judging by the sketch steerin setup.
 
#16 ·
The reason I asked for a few more pics was to see just how your springs attached at the axle. MM could tell from the first batch of pics that you have a SOA setup.

I wouldn't worry too much about the shackles at the moment. I'm thinking a dropped pitman arm might help. I hesitate to actually recommend a dropped PA until we hear from more knowledgeable posters.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
#19 ·
Ill post pix of the rear tomorrow. I dont think there is a ladder bar of any sort tho in the rear. I was told it needs a slip yoke eliminator too
 
#20 · (Edited)
Somebody did a half ass job it sounds like. Does it vibrate like heck under acceleration? Also does it have a tcase drop?


When i was younger i thought, oh no problem ill just weld on some perches, fab a ladder bar and ill be good. Yes it looks cool, not to functional though. It takes some knowledge and money to do a soa correctly and SAFE!
 
#24 ·
Good advice above. I'll sum it up below...
1. Your drag link is at too steep of an angle.
2. Your stabilizer is not correctly set up.
3. Shackles may or may not be ghetto/sloppy. Heck, maybe they're strong as hell.
4. You have too much lift for stock driveline angles.

#1 and #2 are definite issues. I would fix those first. #3 is a maybe, and #4 needs more information. I would suggest fixing the first two, then worry about the others.

Both of those things can be fixed with a steering conversion, but those conversions typically cost $$$$. Fabrication is also involved, since the steering knuckles have to be drilled and tapered. A cheaper but less effective solution would be the drop pitman arm.

With the drop PA, you will still have steep steering angles. There really isn't any other way other than to physically move the tie rods above the knuckles. The drag link already links to the tie rod fairly far over, so you cannot move it for a better angle.
 
#34 ·
Good advice above. I'll sum it up below...
1. Your drag link is at too steep of an angle.
2. Your stabilizer is not correctly set up.
3. Shackles may or may not be ghetto/sloppy. Heck, maybe they're strong as hell.
4. You have too much lift for stock driveline angles.

#1 and #2 are definite issues. I would fix those first. #3 is a maybe, and #4 needs more information. I would suggest fixing the first two, then worry about the others.

Both of those things can be fixed with a steering conversion, but those conversions typically cost $$$$. Fabrication is also involved, since the steering knuckles have to be drilled and tapered. A cheaper but less effective solution would be the drop pitman arm.

With the drop PA, you will still have steep steering angles. There really isn't any other way other than to physically move the tie rods above the knuckles. The drag link already links to the tie rod fairly far over, so you cannot move it for a better angle.
so this might be a good start?
YJ High Steer: Jeep YJ High Steer, Knuckle Over steering system or an alternative?
 
#25 ·
You might consider un-engineering the SOA to the stock SUA. That would cure a multitude of issues.

Your springs look flat. What makes you state that it's a Skyjacker 5 1/2" lift?
The only "skyjacker" is that it looks jacked up to the sky. If that were my Jeep I would replace the current springs with a 2 1/2" kit from Old Man Emu or if that's too rich for you than the kit that DREDnot recommended a few days ago. And I would do it as a spring under.
For a newbie, that's going to be your most economical and practical route. The shackles you have might be Rough Country boomerang shackles. Measure the distance between the centers of the bolts that go through the bushings. (4" is stock length IIRC). The boomerang part of the shackles is probably a good thing. If they are stock length shackles then you should be just fine.

Save the current hardware and as you develop a sense of how you want to use your Jeep and gain experience from working on it and following this and other forums you can do a quality SOA if your needs dictate it.

In order to get the Jeep even safely driveable you should set your toe. What that means is the rear tires should be "0" toe in. The rear has no adjustment other than the track bar that you shouldn't have with your current setup and don't need if you return the Jeep to spring under. I just mention the rear as a reference. "0" toe in means they both point straight ahead.

First thing is to center your steering wheel. Start the Jeep and turn the steering wheel all the way in one direction. Then turn it all the way in the other direction, counting the turns as you do. Then turn it back half the number of turns. The wheel should be centered with the center bar horizontal. If so, shut the jeep off and lock the wheel straight ahead.

The front is where the toe-in is set. Measure between the outer tread width on the back of the front tires as high as you can.
Then measure the same place at the front of the tires. The measurement at the front of the tires should be 1/16" to 1/8" less than the measurement at the rear of the tires. This is done with the steering wheel still locked straight ahead.

For some reason, I think you are going to have problems adjusting the toe. If you do, keep asking questions here and between us we should be able to get you fixed up.

Good Luck, L.M.

P.S.
Caster can be set with tapered shims. That's outside the scope of what you need to do to cure your current problems. Camber can be set with offset ball joints. Also outside the scope of what you need to do right now.
 
#36 ·
You might consider un-engineering the SOA to the stock SUA. That would cure a multitude of issues.

Your springs look flat. What makes you state that it's a Skyjacker 5 1/2" lift?
The only "skyjacker" is that it looks jacked up to the sky. If that were my Jeep I would replace the current springs with a 2 1/2" kit from Old Man Emu or if that's too rich for you than the kit that DREDnot recommended a few days ago. And I would do it as a spring under.
For a newbie, that's going to be your most economical and practical route. The shackles you have might be Rough Country boomerang shackles. Measure the distance between the centers of the bolts that go through the bushings. (4" is stock length IIRC). The boomerang part of the shackles is probably a good thing. If they are stock length shackles then you should be just fine.

Save the current hardware and as you develop a sense of how you want to use your Jeep and gain experience from working on it and following this and other forums you can do a quality SOA if your needs dictate it.

In order to get the Jeep even safely driveable you should set your toe. What that means is the rear tires should be "0" toe in. The rear has no adjustment other than the track bar that you shouldn't have with your current setup and don't need if you return the Jeep to spring under. I just mention the rear as a reference. "0" toe in means they both point straight ahead.

First thing is to center your steering wheel. Start the Jeep and turn the steering wheel all the way in one direction. Then turn it all the way in the other direction, counting the turns as you do. Then turn it back half the number of turns. The wheel should be centered with the center bar horizontal. If so, shut the jeep off and lock the wheel straight ahead.

The front is where the toe-in is set. Measure between the outer tread width on the back of the front tires as high as you can.
Then measure the same place at the front of the tires. The measurement at the front of the tires should be 1/16" to 1/8" less than the measurement at the rear of the tires. This is done with the steering wheel still locked straight ahead.

For some reason, I think you are going to have problems adjusting the toe. If you do, keep asking questions here and between us we should be able to get you fixed up.

Good Luck, L.M.

P.S.
Caster can be set with tapered shims. That's outside the scope of what you need to do to cure your current problems. Camber can be set with offset ball joints. Also outside the scope of what you need to do right now.

I was told it was a skyjacker. that's all I know.

whats involved with removing the SOA?

if I reversed it and did the emu kiit, would the other things then come into correct geometry?

thanks again all!!
 
#26 ·
I've been hearing that 1/16" - 1/8" toe in for awhile and just did a check on that. Of course, toe is actually measured in degrees, so I assume the length measurement came from DIY guys. Maybe with 31" tires? The measurement would change with tire size.

Anyway the spec is zero degrees, +/- 1/8 degree. That surprised me actually. So, you want the wheels pointed perfectly straight ahead. However, manufacturers change their specs, so maybe Jeep decided that they wanted more toe in.

My suggestion would be to either go with zero toe, or 1/8 degree positive toe (toe in).


Silly me! I forgot to tell you to check your front suspension/steering!

Jack the Jeep up into the air to check the following components...
Tie rods: shake wheel at 9 and 3 left and right.
Ball joints: shake wheel at 6 and 12 up and down.
Wheel bearing: wheel will have equal play at all positions.

P.S. I've actually seen wheels with left and right play, that feel like tie rods but are actually bad ball joints. Put the Jeep on jack stands and have a friend look underneath.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top