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Old 02-15-2009, 09:42 AM   #1
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92 automatic trans won't engage

Just got a wrangler given to me. I was told it was driven, parked, started again and trans won't kick in. No symtoms prior. add Fluid was tried peviously(since it's over full) backyard mechanic was at work on it (new plugs, wires, starter etc.) I'm thinking a solenoid, vac actuator, etc. is bad - disconnected
not familiar with jeeps and am looking for some thoughts. wan't to get it going as knock around vehicle.

Thanks in advance for any help

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Old 02-15-2009, 09:44 AM   #2
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could the t case be in nuetral, or stuck in nuetral?

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Old 02-15-2009, 09:50 AM   #3
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:58 AM   #4
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I shifted T case to all positions already. forgot to put in 1st message.

linkages seem OK.don't know what correct is though as far as adjustments and such and what is critical.

I am very well versed in car systems and mechanics in general. Just no experience with jeeps (yet).

A quick primer on what happens from shifter to go would be the best. eg "shifter engages solenoid X (or valve Y) vacuum activates Z etc."

I know trannys don't just die in the driveway and I'm sure this guy disconncted (or broke) a wire or vac line or something that crteated this state.Or it is a lie and he blew it up. doubt that but it IS possible.

Is there a good place here or elsewhere that I can find schematics and such to educate myself a little better before wasting more of your time?

I just took a shot you guys might respond "check vac line to such and such control, I've seen it a hundred times".It was worth a shot.

Thanks for the quick response
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:33 PM   #5
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hey doc,...what would t-case position do to effect the transmission from engaging? im learning automatics as well. now to hangin...does the trans hold fluid? since over full could it be a blown oil pump seal? could be your detent arm (to select which gear you want in the case.) obviously, check the whole run of your vac lines all the way for dry rot,splits, or missing. especially dry rot if it was sitting stored for awhile.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:04 PM   #6
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No major leaks apparent. needs a valve cover gasket so oil and dirt coating on just about everything. Nothing pouring out if that's what you mean.

alot of deteriorating rubber ends on vac lines etc.engine runs rough acts like it probably has some vac leaks. I want to make sure it moves before investing major time or $ in it.price was right but I don"t want to get a trans just to find out it was a broken line or wire.

when shifted from park to Rev engine RPM INCREASE which is exactly oposite of what you should expect.
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Old 02-15-2009, 01:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felsengleiskette View Post
hey doc,...what would t-case position do to effect the transmission from engaging? im learning automatics as well. now to hangin...does the trans hold fluid? since over full could it be a blown oil pump seal? could be your detent arm (to select which gear you want in the case.) obviously, check the whole run of your vac lines all the way for dry rot,splits, or missing. especially dry rot if it was sitting stored for awhile.
technically the t case position will have no effect on trans engagement. but sounds like the jeep just doesn't move in any gear, and if the t case was stuck in nuetral, the trans could be fine, and the jeep ain't goin no where in any gear.
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Old 02-15-2009, 08:02 PM   #8
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found the PDF version of service manuals and parts lists for the YJ.

hxxp://rapidshare.com/files/53287791/PDFTown.com-1999JeepWrangler.zip (this is TJ link I will leave here for those who need it, Will post YJ link when I find again)


except for one listing "Park Sprag not Releasing" most of the troubleshooting tips are not helpful without major surgery on the trans.

If trans pull is necesary is it just as easy to pull both engine and trans for ease of disassembly/reassembly and to assure no damage and proper alignment? the reason I ask is, if I am already pulling the trans, the engine has like 170K miles. I might as well rebuild both while I have it out. No? removal looks pretty straight forward and I can deal with any repairs in difficult areas while they are out.

Thoughts?
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:19 PM   #9
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removing the trans is about a 2 hour job tops in a driveway, not worth pulling the motor.
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:59 PM   #10
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dropped the trans pan. some very fine metal shavings in pan and mush attached to the magnet.

Cleaned out, changed filter and fluid. still no go.

While running to test the trans There is a low chirp (like a bad idler pully or water pump bearing) when standing looking under the hood.

when I crawled back under to check for leaks it appears the sound is coming from inside the area where trans and engine connect.Something Broke? Loose?

Thoughts?
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:48 PM   #11
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Inside the bell housing look for scrapes from something hitting the sides, possibly bad torque converter or any number of things as I've encountered with my YJ
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:20 AM   #12
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maybe the torque converter isn't bolted up
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:29 PM   #13
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Is that a wise crack doc?
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:24 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 87YJWrangler View Post
Is that a wise crack doc?
yes and no. honestly, i've seen stupid things on jeeps. some people have had problems with the bolts coming loose, maybe the previous owner lost them all together, and thats why it won't move, and makes a noise by the bellhousing
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Old 02-20-2009, 11:42 PM   #15
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can you select a gear then go under and try and spin the driveshaft? sounds like itwill be free spinning. i would NOT take engine out w/ trans still connected. never been a fan of doing that ever... obviously, the rear wheels will have to be off the ground when spinning the shaft. it would spin with a working trans, but you could feel a geared resistance. broken gears would be either no trans resistance, or ceased no spin. but as i type that crappy suggestion i say just yank it and dive in. they arnt that hard, just snap pictures as you go and be aware of any clocking positions on lock rings and what not. cuz, it could be a million reasons why, if all the B.S items check out. like blown inner seals, bad friction surfaces, clogged fluid passeges, mechanical selector could be slipped off the case mount, bad gasket seal on your valve body,....i could go on for a half hour about a bunch o' what if's. without visually seeing damage, its hard to diagnos.( after checks with trans in the car have been made.) thats why trans work is expensive...
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:57 PM   #16
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That's a good idea Fels . As soon as this damn snow melts(we got just shy of a foot this weekend) I'll jack it up to be able to turn the drive line from back to front and find out where the break is. No time to work on it lately but the warm weather is coming so I need to get on it. Won't be a waste of time because I have to raise it to remove the trans. anyway.

Thanks to all for your input. I'll try to document and share the process for anyone else who may be in the same boat down the road.
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:08 AM   #17
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Took the plunge this weekend.

Pulling the trans and engine. Will rebuild the trans and my buddy has an engine with like 66k on it I'm trading for.

While talking with him (jeep guy) he hipped me to the fact that ( with proper equipment and know-how) it is easier to take the whole body off and make the change and drop the body back on.

I pulled the body off this weekend. about 3 hrs of disconnecting connections to the body (linkage wires etc.) and removing the bolts (11 I think). I then used my backhoe boom and lifted it right off. The only casualty was the plastic vacuum booster connection for the brakes. I didn't realize it had gotten hooked on gas pedal cable.

Talk about access and easy working without body in the way. I power washed the chassis yesterday and will probably pull the trans and transfer today for tear down.

I will change shocks,clean and paint frame and whatever else I can think of while body is off.

Thanks for all the input so far and I will keep posted on progress.

Later
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:20 AM   #18
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very cool, i don't kow if that makes it that much easier. i'm not saying taking the body off wasn't good, i have. but the driveline comes right out all in one peice if you want it to you remove the grill/radiator. but you'll have a nice jeep with all that clean up and stuff.

if you're brake or fuel lines look pretty rusty, replace them now to.

lets see some pics.
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Old 04-13-2009, 05:51 PM   #19
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took a couple pix but don't know how to post.

Later
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Old 04-13-2009, 06:18 PM   #20
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I figured it out.
Here are a couple Pix.









later
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:25 PM   #21
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That frame looks clean good luck
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Old 04-14-2009, 05:41 PM   #22
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pulled engine, trans and transfer all as one.

disassembled beginning with transfer which was fine except for NO OIL! Still moves smooth shifts perfectly. I guess they drained to change and didn't fill.

trans shifts into and out of gear when shaft is turned I can feel the gears turning inside. So I may not need the rebuild after all.

No bolts broken to engine or converter.

Spinning converter does not sound or feel kosher. Tried to get it out to inspect and was unsuccessful. Ran out of time due to rain but will take it to my jeep guy tomorrow to check it out and explore further. Debating whether to rebuild trans or not while it's out.

Will probably degrease and power wash chassis again tomorrow and change the shocks in preparation for reassembly.

Everything so far has been pretty straight forward and not finding ground metal inside anything is encouraging.

Although it is convenient to have the body off for this work I would not advise doing it (removing body) unless you have the ability and equipment to move things without effort. I swing steel beams and trusses etc. all the time and have the resources to do this safely. One mistake and you could injure/kill yourself or someone else. It's definitely not rocket science but I don't want someone to see this and attempt it themselves thinking it's a piece of cake because it's not. I just wanted to be clear on the subject because reading my earlier post I think I made it sound too easy.

luego
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:42 AM   #23
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took trans to my trans guys and it is a mess. Something locked up and broke the male part of torque converter to bits. you all know how the loose metal in your trans story ends. rebuild kit and many hard parts to change plus converter repairs.

after powerwashing transfer case I found the reason for no fluid is a good size crack in the case.

Good news is engine swap is going smooth. the only change I need to make is adding a rear water temp sensor since the newer version doesn't have it. other than that all is good. Will have my welder fix the case today and trans should be done in a day or 2. after that we put it all together and GO JEEPING!!

Seems like a lot of work for a old jeep but I got it for nothing and will basically have a new rolling chassis when I'm done. Once mechanically sound I will add some tires and other trick stuff. You wouldn't believe the stuff my friend has for jeeps of all kinds. If anybody is looking for a part you can't find let me know and I'll see if he's got it.

once I get the chassis back together I will post picks before I put the body back on.

hang in there!
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:30 AM   #24
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Driving again!!

Got the drivetrain back together, body on and all connnections done. Drove yesterday for 1st time. ALL GOOD! Now I can work on customizing and improving.

Thanks all for your help with the process and I will surely share my experience with those following who run into trouble.


I think I have finished rolling chassis picture to post and will take an all done before mods pic.

Thanks again all,

Hang in there!!

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