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Old 08-27-2010, 11:02 PM   #1
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Question 92 wrangler V8 swap ?

Ok I have a 92 yj had 2.5 with 5 speed, im removing the engine trans and transfer to swap to a carb chevy 350 with a turbo 350 trans and gm transfer. what do i need to do with the fuel tank as far as the fuel pump ect... do they make a conversion sender ? also what wires can i get rid of off the computer i want this thing as simple as i can get it i have never done a swap before so im not sure what im in for, i figgured cutting the driveshafts would be cheaper than the adapter for the stock transfer. im gonna have alot of ? and any help would be great

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Old 08-27-2010, 11:45 PM   #2
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Your going with a 350... in a yj. haha thats a huge jump from a 2.5. but by all means brother go for it. maybe you can strap rockets on the jeep and go for a ride in the sky?
but umm. as far as a conversion sender... im not shure you might have to throw the 350's gas tank.... far fetched... but i dont do swaps either. just giving you some advice.

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Old 08-27-2010, 11:59 PM   #3
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parts 92 yj

I have a 2.5 block needs rebuilt 50 bucks
cyl head 75.00
5 speed trans in great shape no problems 150.00
NP231 transfer 150.00
almost new radiator maby 300 miles on it 75.00
starter 25.00
alt 25.00
valve cover 20.00
intake 50.00
I have all the parts from the engine im just trying to get a little something out of these to help out with the swap i have no use for them anymore hopefully someone can use them.
also have the power steering pump, brackets ect the jeep was running when i started pulling everything
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:07 AM   #4
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Wait, your jeep is apart and your trying to sell the parts for money towards the swap?
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:37 AM   #5
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2 things.

First, the Chevy 350 swap into a Wrangler is a fairly common swap. I've done it and I've worked on and seen quite a few others. Heck, I've seen a Magnum V10 in a YJ before. But to get to the point you don't need to touch the sender in the fuel tank. If you retain the stock fuel gauge and sender you won't need to touch it. As for the fuel pump, I bought a Holley fuel pressure regulator to drop the fuel pressure down to a safe level for the carburetor. Summit racing has them. You just need to remember that you want something that is going drop the fuel pressure down to between 5-9psi and I would adjust it to about 6psi. You aren't going to be able to get by with a cheap fuel pressure regulator because those can only handle about 15psi and your fuel pump is putting out 30-40psi. I think mine cost about $80 or so. The other option you can do is to install an electric fuel pump near the tank and use the outlet on the fuel tank. As for the wires, I labeled anything that went to a sensor and when the engine was out I removed it all the way back to the ECU. If it goes to the rear of the Jeep, the relay box, or to the front of the body I would leave it alone. There are some systems that piggyback off each other and if you cut one wire another system might stop working. FYI the fuel pump circuit somehow draws power from the A/C circuit. Ask me how I know.


The second thing is if you are going to be selling your spare parts you will have to do that in the classified section. The technical section is not the place for it. You'll need a minimum of 15 posts before you can do that though. There is no shame is selling off the spare parts as you build, just not in here. I did it on my YJ and I will be doing it on my TJ.


Oh, and welcome to the forum.
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:06 AM   #6
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oh sorry for the wrong posting now how can i delete it.
first time on this forum
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:09 AM   #7
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Don't worry about it. If a Moderator wants to they can fix it for you. Just keep it in mind for next time.

Have you decided on motor mounts and the radiator yet?
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:19 AM   #8
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im thinking about the bolt in saddle mount from advance adaptors says it works with the gm auto trans and im still up in the air about the transfer will a gm gear drive bolt up to the turbo 350 and work in the yj or do i have to use the chain drive. as far as the radiator i have no idea can you use one out of something else or just custom
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:26 AM   #9
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I used the weld-in mounts from Advance Adapters. The saddle mount works good too. I just didn't want that silly bar going across under the engine. One more thing to get in the way if you have to work on the engine.

I'm sure that there is an adapter that will fit that transfer case to the turbo 350 but I've not done an automatic. The guts in the transfer case don't make any difference to how it mates to the transmission. Gear drive is stronger than a chain drive but that aspect won't affect how it mates to the transmission.

What model transfer case are looking at getting or already have? I might be able find out how to get that bolted up for you.
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:40 AM   #10
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well i havent bought anything yet just started last week, i was gonna throw in a fresh set of rings and found out it was alot worse, its just my play toy not the daily driver so long story short ive wanted to do this for a while so now is a good a time as any i would like to keep a 4 or 5 speed if thats easier since i already have the pedals, im really building this for off road mudd and rocks os what would u suggest
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:53 AM   #11
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Oh, if you can get a manual that would be better. I know all the parts you need if you want to get an SM465 4 speed in there. They are practically bullet proof, super cheap because they are everywhere, and have an insanely low first gear.
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:02 AM   #12
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sweet i dont really care for an auto anyway what years were the sm465 offered
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:03 AM   #13
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There is a span of at least 10 -15 years that they were available in 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Chevy trucks. I'm about to go to bed but I'll get you some more info in the morning.


This link though will get you started.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sm465.htm
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Old 08-28-2010, 02:20 AM   #14
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thanks i have alot to learn lol thats funny i was just looking at that sight
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:14 PM   #15
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K, here are a few more bits of info if you want one of these transmissions.

The SM465 was available from 1968 to 1991. They can be found in Chevy and GMC full-size trucks, Blazers, Suburbans and some other models.

If you do decide to get one, find one that is the 2WD version. They have a much stronger 35 spline output shaft vs. the 10 spline shaft in the earlier ones and can easily be adapted to most transfer cases. The later 4WD models would be alright as they have a 32 spline output shaft. Just be careful which transfer case you get. Make sure it's front output is on the driver side, unless you plan on putting in a front end with a passenger side differential.
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:26 PM   #16
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transfer case

what would be a good transfer to go with the sm465 i would prefer not to have to buy an adapter if i dont have to is there anything that will bolt up to that and the jeep axles, and i do realize im going to have the driveshafts made if not ill get the the adaptor and use my NP231 and keep my driveshafts stock
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:38 PM   #17
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wow just when i started to think i knew something about jeeps, splines?
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Old 08-28-2010, 11:08 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayak26143 View Post
what would be a good transfer to go with the sm465 i would prefer not to have to buy an adapter if i dont have to is there anything that will bolt up to that and the jeep axles, and i do realize im going to have the driveshafts made if not ill get the the adaptor and use my NP231 and keep my driveshafts stock
Some late 80's early 90's Chevy trucks had an SM465 and an NP241 that was driver side drop. There are other options but it involves mixing and matching parts from a couple different transfer cases.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasomma View Post
wow just when i started to think i knew something about jeeps, splines?
Oh, wait till you hear about lateral runout, pinion bearing preload, and backlash.
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coyote_94yj View Post
Oh, wait till you hear about lateral runout, pinion bearing preload, and backlash.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:57 PM   #20
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sm465

I did find a sm465 out of the 2wd what do i have to do to make it work on the jeep
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:07 PM   #21
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Depends on what transfer case you are going to use. You'll need an adapter of some sort. Installing the adapter starts out by removing the rear yoke and tail housing. It also involves cutting off the threaded end of the output shaft of the transmission. I used a thin cutting wheel on an angle grinder and making short cuts with long pauses to keep the heat down as to not hurt the strength of the shaft.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:26 PM   #22
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hydrolic clutch

so i have my trans and engine together and im goint to use my stock transfer case the guys at advanced adapters were really helpful i was wondering about the clutch hook up my stock trans had the hydrolic clutch the sm465 i bought has the hydo bell housing what do i need to get to make it work does not have the slave cyl on the bell housing ill buy one of thoes at work but can i use the stock master cyl and what about the lines what do i need to hook it all up
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:30 PM   #23
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clutch

im also wondering i need a flywheel whitch i can get from work but im confused on the clutch they offer several for the 78 chevy sm465 i think it was a 10 inch and 11 inch ill have to look it up again at work but there are several options how do i figgure out whitch one i need
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Old 10-26-2010, 12:43 AM   #24
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ok i am using the fuel pump on the block i went to remove the stock pump and im wondering what i need to do with the wires to keep the sender working ??? one wire goes to the sender leave it i would think. The other went to the fuel pump power i would guess and the other wire off the pump to ground on the sender body any ideas on how to make the sender work without the pump in there
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:40 AM   #25
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Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kayak26143 View Post
so i have my trans and engine together and im goint to use my stock transfer case the guys at advanced adapters were really helpful i was wondering about the clutch hook up my stock trans had the hydrolic clutch the sm465 i bought has the hydo bell housing what do i need to get to make it work does not have the slave cyl on the bell housing ill buy one of thoes at work but can i use the stock master cyl and what about the lines what do i need to hook it all up
Rather than get long winded here I'm just going to post up links to all the parts you'll need to get that clutch setup working.
716287 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
716119S | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
716119H | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
716130 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
716215 | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters
And you'll need a few fittings from your local autoparts house. A piece of steel brake line and a couple fittings to join it all up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kayak26143 View Post
im also wondering i need a flywheel whitch i can get from work but im confused on the clutch they offer several for the 78 chevy sm465 i think it was a 10 inch and 11 inch ill have to look it up again at work but there are several options how do i figgure out whitch one i need
I'm not sure but I think it depends on what size your flywheel is. The bigger the better though in this case.
Quote:
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ok i am using the fuel pump on the block i went to remove the stock pump and im wondering what i need to do with the wires to keep the sender working ??? one wire goes to the sender leave it i would think. The other went to the fuel pump power i would guess and the other wire off the pump to ground on the sender body any ideas on how to make the sender work without the pump in there
I used the stock Jeep fuel pump with a Holley fuel pressure regulator for two reasons. One it makes for easier starting because with the ignition on you know you have fuel right there waiting to be used. With a mechanical pump you only have fuel pressure while the engine is turning over. The other reason I went with electric is because I first ran the mechanical and I was having vapor lock issues with the fuel because I had to run the fuel lines close to the engine. When I went electric I was able to come from the back straight to the carburetor. When I was using the mechanical pump I left the stock assembly in the tank and just sucked from the return side of the housing and blocked off the fuel pump side and disconnected the wire to the pump.
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:53 AM   #26
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im lost i want to keep my stock guage one wire going to the float one wire to the pump and one from pump to the sender frame ground ? is there anything i can do with this to make the guage still work ? im trying to make this as simple as poss and not blow this thing up lol
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:23 AM   #27
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i guess what im asking is if i take the pump out all together and the wire to it will the guage still work
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Old 10-26-2010, 09:13 AM   #28
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If the float is still in the tank and the wire is hooked up it should still work. You don't need to pull the pump though. You can just hook up your fuel line to the smaller of the two fittings on the top of the tank and put one of those carburetor vacuum caps on the the other line and zip tie it on.
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:57 PM   #29
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workes great left the wire to the float and took out the pump ran a new hard line to the sock everything works like it should. Now its on to something else

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