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94 Jeep 2.5 with water in oil

10K views 47 replies 9 participants last post by  ekytrader 
#1 ·
Ok before I start my short book plzzz don't think I'm ignorant for what has happened. I live in the Mountains of the Eastern KY Coalfields and this year we have had a brutal cold snowy winter so far.
About 6 weeks ago my radiator went out in my Jeep and I had to buy a new one. The Jeep got hot so I was afraid that I may have busted my bock ect so when I installed the new radiator I just used distilled water instead of 15.00 a gallon antifreeze. I however very seldom drive the jeep and forgot about the water. I came home home one very cold evening and decided to move the Jeep from the drive way to the garage. The jeep would barely turn over so I got my battery charger and charged it. The jeep still would barely turn over and then it hit me. The water pump is froze solid. So a few days later when it got above freezing I went out and tried to start it again. It did turn a little easier but still no start. I then had someone take my atv and I pushed it off and sure enough it started right up but in about 5 seconds the belt started smoking and broke so I shut the jeep off. It ran no more than 30 seconds. So yesterday it was about 60 degrees out so I bought a new belt and installed it. Sure enough the jeep fired right up and sounded great. I just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong before draining the radiator and pouring the antifreeze in. It ran for about an hour and never got warm actually ran very cool. When I started to reinstall the breather box I noticed some obvious blow by coming out of one of the small tubes that goes to the side of the breather box. I gritted my teeth and said to myself please don't have water in my oil. Well sure enough, there was water in my oil. I know your thinking blown head gasket, cracked or warped head or busted block but I have a question. Could it be something else? I mean is it possible that on that cold day when the water pump was frozen and I pushed it off that maybe it busted the timing chain cover which would allow water to pour down into the oil pan. Or could it be something else and how can I know for sure? Is there a test that can be done? Maybe pressurizing the head or something?
 
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#27 ·
Not sure about websites, I always use a book manual for that stuff, because it will have the torque specs, the pattern and I don't have to have computer access in the garage to use it.

Usually and probably in this case the pattern is a spiral starting from the Center bolt and out. The actual torque specs will vary by the actual bolts used and sometimes they specify an actual torque for each time you go around the spiral.

NEVER TRY TO TORQUE THE BOLTS ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE FIRST GO

Just a friendly warning

You will also need the torque pattern for the exhaust and intake manifolds. The Torque spec for the Thermostat housing, the Timing Chain cover, etc. Also, the manual will show you how to re-align your timing chain when you go to reinstall it.

When you are in there, check to see if you have the Nylon coated Aluminium cam gear. I you do check it for cracks. If you can afford it, I would replace it with a roller chain (assuming the block wasn't damaged).
 
#33 ·
Yeah after reading all the reviews from there web sites I tend to agree. It's sorta like that product you buy when your radiator has a leak and you put the stop leak in it. It'll sure stop up the leak but they fail to tell you it also gums up the radiator, heater core and eats the seals out of ur water pump. LOL
 
#41 ·
Hey you gotta admit, it saves a lot of set up time on a milling machine or sub-grinder:whistling:
 
#44 ·
I thought that was the whole point of the new gasket to fill in any imperfections? I am I wrong with that, if the metal was milled true there would be no need for gaskets. Or atleast thats the way I see it...
That is true within a certain amount. That gasket is what a millimeter thick? Figure that with compression it can only correct an imperfection half a millimeter off. And some warping will even resist properly torquing the bolts down.
 
#43 ·
Yes,you can do it on a large belt sander,seen it done at a machine shop. the head has to be flat to within .003 and the belt sander is able to do it. keep moveing the head vigoursly on the belt sander when doing it.left hand on top of front of head,right hand on rear,move hnds back and fourth,left hand furthest from body while right hand is closest to your body ,and move back and fourth rapidly.
 
#46 ·
Milling it down is to remove the warp. The gasket will work much better with the warp removed. The odds of getting the head and block perfectly milled to each other is low and would cost a heck of a lot more than a gasket and doing the head by itself.

The gasket will fill many imperfections, not all.
 
#48 ·
I have discovered that the only machine shop in my area has closed down. I am seriously considering just buying me a Jeep Cherokee or Grand Chreokee that has been wreck and get a 4.0 and put in my Jeep. How do I tackle the electronics and the computer and fuel injection? Will everything just plug up?
 
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