Ok before I start my short book plzzz don't think I'm ignorant for what has happened. I live in the Mountains of the Eastern KY Coalfields and this year we have had a brutal cold snowy winter so far.
About 6 weeks ago my radiator went out in my Jeep and I had to buy a new one. The Jeep got hot so I was afraid that I may have busted my bock ect so when I installed the new radiator I just used distilled water instead of 15.00 a gallon antifreeze. I however very seldom drive the jeep and forgot about the water. I came home home one very cold evening and decided to move the Jeep from the drive way to the garage. The jeep would barely turn over so I got my battery charger and charged it. The jeep still would barely turn over and then it hit me. The water pump is froze solid. So a few days later when it got above freezing I went out and tried to start it again. It did turn a little easier but still no start. I then had someone take my atv and I pushed it off and sure enough it started right up but in about 5 seconds the belt started smoking and broke so I shut the jeep off. It ran no more than 30 seconds. So yesterday it was about 60 degrees out so I bought a new belt and installed it. Sure enough the jeep fired right up and sounded great. I just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong before draining the radiator and pouring the antifreeze in. It ran for about an hour and never got warm actually ran very cool. When I started to reinstall the breather box I noticed some obvious blow by coming out of one of the small tubes that goes to the side of the breather box. I gritted my teeth and said to myself please don't have water in my oil. Well sure enough, there was water in my oil. I know your thinking blown head gasket, cracked or warped head or busted block but I have a question. Could it be something else? I mean is it possible that on that cold day when the water pump was frozen and I pushed it off that maybe it busted the timing chain cover which would allow water to pour down into the oil pan. Or could it be something else and how can I know for sure? Is there a test that can be done? Maybe pressurizing the head or something?
Yup you gotta start saving for a new motor or a rebuild, it is most likely the head gasket since that goes bad first. Guess u could change oil and c if it runs, if it does smoothly its the head gasket. Don't run it to long. A mechanic will usually charge like 1000 to change it, or itts pritty simple to do with basic tools
I believe your right crtaylor, I think my problem occurred when my radiator went down and its untelling how long its been that way because the Jeep ran so well. I looked at this evening and it doesn't look like it would be that difficult to take the head off. does anyone have a schematic or anything to help me disassemble the head and reinstall it. Looks like its just a matter of removing parts and removing the valve pan cover and taking out the head bolts and seeing if the head is cracked or if the gasket is blown.
My advice to you would be to yank the engine and send it to a machine shop.I got a 97 motor and it had a blown head gasket .neither I or the guy I got it from knew how long it sat this way.the problem i come to have, a rusted lifter and that little sucker wiped out the cam cent journal on crankand who knows what else .only found the extent of the damage after I installed a new cam. so Im saying dont waste you time and moneytrying to put a band aid on it .have it cooked and cleaned out all new bearings installed and all will be good. the parts are realitively cheap.or find another 2.5 .still have the 97 eng. going to send out and rebuild with 6cyl rods and eventually turbo it like my buddy did .his turbo TJ rips no lack of power there.
Also was it a lot of oil or just a little. U can get some water in there from offroading or driving in flooding type areas. It can't hurt to spend 20 to change the oil and c if it starts and c if water goes back in. If it starts and runs fine its prob the head gasket. Or the motor could just blow a rod of its rusted
I've replaced head gaskets before and its not that bad as long as you know the specs on torquing the head bolts and in what patterns (Which I dont) and after that I believe if that is all that was wrong then drain the oil, change it add a can of engine flush run about 30 minutes and then change again an finally change again after about 200 miles and that should clean the gunk and muck from the motor. Anyone know the specs of the head bolts???
Have you had it in any deep water since your last oil change? Have you drained the oil and verified that there is a large(ish) amount of water in your oil? Did you have any oil leaks prior to this incident? In deep water crossing, especially if you are running it hot, water can be drawn into any of the submerged motor seals for a moment and become trapped. Also hot/cold day cycles will actually cause the valve cover to condense water and make for some nasty looking oil in the valve cover. I would drain the oil and really let it set. Fill your radiator and take note of level. Change the oil with a cheap-o oil change and sub in a quart of ATF fluid for a quart of oil (or anything high detergent to get out the water). You dont want water to set in your motor long or its going to eat your bearings fast! Run 'er for about 50 miles (or so while periodically checking you coolant level and taking a note of any power loss) and go with another cheap-o oil change. If you fear the worst already a couple 15.00 oil changes arent going to break the bank especially to know what exactly you are dealing with.
J&D OFF-ROAD CLUB CHARTER MEMBER #10 OF S.W. MO [/CENTER]
Well brother I'm gonna guess that it is water because the oil look like chocolate milk and the blow-by coming out of the tube had no smell and appeared to be steam. The longer it ran the worse it got. The Jeep did run really good and appeared to have no misses. I mean with it getting as Hot as it did its more than likely a head gasket or cracked head. At worst it could be a cracked block...(Hope Not)
Not sure about websites, I always use a book manual for that stuff, because it will have the torque specs, the pattern and I don't have to have computer access in the garage to use it.
Usually and probably in this case the pattern is a spiral starting from the Center bolt and out. The actual torque specs will vary by the actual bolts used and sometimes they specify an actual torque for each time you go around the spiral.
NEVER TRY TO TORQUE THE BOLTS ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE FIRST GO
Just a friendly warning
You will also need the torque pattern for the exhaust and intake manifolds. The Torque spec for the Thermostat housing, the Timing Chain cover, etc. Also, the manual will show you how to re-align your timing chain when you go to reinstall it.
When you are in there, check to see if you have the Nylon coated Aluminium cam gear. I you do check it for cracks. If you can afford it, I would replace it with a roller chain (assuming the block wasn't damaged).
I seen a product at the Parts house last night you add to the crankcase with the oil and it's suppose to seal a blown head gasket. Anyone ever tried anything like that? I mean how could that work with all the pressure on a head gasket?